Viper car alarm install

[iwannadie]

I am planning to install a viper 5901 in our lexus. I had a guy I know is really really good over all with electronics and wiring. I had him lined up to do the install and he just backed out on me. He claimed after reading the install instructions in more detail that it requires a special programmer.

After reading it myself I see that a BitWriter is mentioned but not needed for a basic default install. The bitwriter is needed if you want to program advanced features from the way I read it.

Does any one have experience with these alarms? I am not looking to install it myself but have someone who knows what they are doing. I want to try and explain to my guy that the bitwriter is not needed to do a proper fully functioning install.

My other options are limited as I bought the alarm online and don't want best buy or a place like that doing any wiring.

 

[GrimmJeeper]

try checking around over at www.the12volt.com it's a site dedicated to alarm and car audio installation and tech, they have a pretty active forum and there are a lot of working professionals on the site.

 

[cal]

One of the lead engineers who built the viper alarm systems owns two cherokees and is a naxja user...

I'll see if I can get him to chime in here (he doesnt log in very often) but in short, no you do not need bitwriter to do the install - it does make some custom configuration easier.

 

[Dubster]

I am planning to install a viper 5901 in our lexus. I had a guy I know is really really good over all with electronics and wiring. I had him lined up to do the install and he just backed out on me. He claimed after reading the install instructions in more detail that it requires a special programmer.

After reading it myself I see that a BitWriter is mentioned but not needed for a basic default install. The bitwriter is needed if you want to program advanced features from the way I read it.

Does any one have experience with these alarms? I am not looking to install it myself but have someone who knows what they are doing. I want to try and explain to my guy that the bitwriter is not needed to do a proper fully functioning install.

My other options are limited as I bought the alarm online and don't want best buy or a place like that doing any wiring.

I can help you. If you need me to communicate with your "guy" I will. The Bitwriter is only necessary for the most advanced/micro settings. In most cases it is not needed but can make programming easier.

What year/model Lexus? I can provide you with specific wiring and interface information for the install.

Let me know what you need.

Dub

 

[iwannadie]

Wow, I wasn't expecting this much help with such an odd ball question ha thanks guys I appreciate it. PMing Dubster.

 

[iwannadie]

I went and talked to my guy today for a good hour just discussing things. He still is not comfortable doing the install. He says the actual install and wiring is cake and would be no trouble but the programming he says is still the hold up.

Without the programmer he was showing me how many button clicks, siren chirps and whatever else to navigate the menu and make chanes. He says when he does an install like this he would want to step through every single menu and setting and verify the settings and not assume it is at the claimed default setting and that would take too much time. He said with the programmer it would be quick to navigate through the menus and verify each setting and make changes as needed.

He is pushing me towards buying a programmer (about 100 bucks) and doing it all myself. Or, just taking the time without the programmer to sit down and go through each setting and make sure it's correct. Also he suggested if I am not at all comfortable to take it to a place like best buy and pay them to do it, then bring it back to him for an hour or so to go over their work.

I really wish there was a direct plug and go car specific harness to eliminate all the wiring needed.

 

[Dubster]

I went and talked to my guy today for a good hour just discussing things. He still is not comfortable doing the install. He says the actual install and wiring is cake and would be no trouble but the programming he says is still the hold up.

Without the programmer he was showing me how many button clicks, siren chirps and whatever else to navigate the menu and make chanes. He says when he does an install like this he would want to step through every single menu and setting and verify the settings and not assume it is at the claimed default setting and that would take too much time. He said with the programmer it would be quick to navigate through the menus and verify each setting and make changes as needed.

He is pushing me towards buying a programmer (about 100 bucks) and doing it all myself. Or, just taking the time without the programmer to sit down and go through each setting and make sure it's correct. Also he suggested if I am not at all comfortable to take it to a place like best buy and pay them to do it, then bring it back to him for an hour or so to go over their work.

I really wish there was a direct plug and go car specific harness to eliminate all the wiring needed.

Don't buy the programmer! I'll loan you one if need be. It's really not that difficult to program without it. I could go through all three menus in less than 10 minutes.

It sounds like your guy is looking for an excuse to not do it for you. It may be over his head and if that's the case you might want to consider another installation option.

I'll do what I can to help.

Dub

 

[iwannadie]

I trust the guy and I think he is being honest with me, he just thinks it will take too much time to make it worth while. It doesn't matter why I guess though as he is not an option now.

I am now seriously thinking of doing it myself. I want to install a 5901 into my XJ also so the cost of the programmer didn't seem bad but I wouldn't refuse a loaner for sure.

 

[Dubster]

I trust the guy and I think he is being honest with me, he just thinks it will take too much time to make it worth while. It doesn't matter why I guess though as he is not an option now.

I am now seriously thinking of doing it myself. I want to install a 5901 into my XJ also so the cost of the programmer didn't seem bad but I wouldn't refuse a loaner for sure.

Your Lexus is about as easy an install as you're going to get. One starter circuit, two ignitions, one accessory at the ignition switch. Negative door locks in the passenger kick. Negative parking lights at the column. Brake switch wire, easy. Factory hood pin. Injector wire for Tach. Single, negative door trigger wire.

If you know how to use a DMM and can make sound electrical connections, soldering is preferred you can do this one yourself. There is no immobilizer so no bypass is needed. Factory alarm is controlled by the locks and there is an easy way to disarm the factory alarm for remote start.

Don't know what year your XJ is but they are pretty straightforward as well.

I'll walk you through the install from here if you want but you'll owe me.

Dub

 

[iwannadie]

I am feeling more confident on the lexus install then. I was worried about the power tilt steering I was reading up on it at a lexus specific forum and the guy said it took some doing to get the tilt to work. It is supposed to tilt only after the key is put in not when it is remote started but I will look more at that.

Do you guys have some old bitwritters laying around you'd want to sell ; ) .

My XJ is a 97 and I can't imagine it being more difficult than the lexus.

 

[Dubster]

I trust the guy and I think he is being honest with me, he just thinks it will take too much time to make it worth while. It doesn't matter why I guess though as he is not an option now.

I am now seriously thinking of doing it myself. I want to install a 5901 into my XJ also so the cost of the programmer didn't seem bad but I wouldn't refuse a loaner for sure.

I don't know how much you're paying for the 5901 but I should be able to get you one for less than you're paying retail. I'll see if I have an extra Bitwriter I can throw in if you want.

Dub

 

[Dubster]

I am feeling more confident on the lexus install then. I was worried about the power tilt steering I was reading up on it at a lexus specific forum and the guy said it took some doing to get the tilt to work. It is supposed to tilt only after the key is put in not when it is remote started but I will look more at that.

Do you guys have some old bitwritters laying around you'd want to sell ; ) .

My XJ is a 97 and I can't imagine it being more difficult than the lexus.

If you're willing we could do an install party at my place and we can do Cal's at the same time.

Dub

 

[iwannadie]

I actually have one 5901 already, bought off amazon. Like I said I want one for my XJ so I would be open to buying a 2nd one, maybe PM me what that would cost or something.

I would love an install party if you weren't so far away ha.

 

[iwannadie]

Ok, I still haven't committed to doing this myself but I am exploring the option more now. I pulled the dash trim to see if I could identify all the wires I need access to and I can get at them all easy. I also found someone on a lexus specific forum who has done the install and posted the wire connections he used.

I am wondering why he tapped into the same White/red Ignition harness wire 4 times, that seems odd to me. Or, am I misreading things? Other than that it seems really simple to splice into the other wires...


Primary harness (H1), 12-pin connector
H1/1 RED/WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT = blue at trunk release switch ( need a relay refer to manual that explains why and how to wire up relay)
H1/2 RED (+)12v CONSTANT INPUT = White/Red Ignition Switch Harness
H1/3 BROWN (+) SIREN OUTPUT = Red wire on siren
H1/4 WHITE/BROWN LIGHT FLASH ISOLATION WIRE - PIN 87a of onboard relay = Cut to about 3" long and tape off
H1/5 BLACK (-) CHASSIS GROUND = Make a good ground
H1/6 VIOLET (+) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT = Cut to about 3" long and tape off
H1/7 BLUE (-) TRUNK PIN/ INSTANT TRIGGER INPUT = Red/white wire in drivers running board
H1/8 GREEN (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT = Red/white drivers kick panel below fuse box
H1/9 BLACK/WHITE (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT OUTPUT = Cut to about 3" long and tape off
H1/10 WHITE/BLUE (-) REMOTE START/ TURBO TIMER ACTIVATION INPUT = Cut to about 3" long and tape off
H1/11 WHITE PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT = Green (-) located @ steering column @ switch
H1/12 ORANGE (-) 500mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT = Cut to about 3" long and tape off

➢ Heavy gauge remote start, (H3) 10-pin connector
H3/1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT Black/yellow ignition harness
H3/2 RED/WHITE (+) FUSED (30A) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY INPUT 87 = White/red ignition harness
H3/3 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT = PINK/BLUE FOR PRE 95
(RED FOR 95+) ignition harness
H3/4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL) = Black/White Ignition Switch Harness
H3/5 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL WIRE) = Black/White Ignition Switch Harness
H3/6 RED (+) FUSED (30A) IGNITION 1 INPUT = White/red ignition harness
H3/7 PINK/WHITE (+) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY OUTPUT = Black/orange ignition harness
H3/8 PINK/BLACK (+) FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A key side (if required) of FLEX
RELAY = Cut short and tape off
H3/9 RED/BLACK (+) FUSED (30A) ACCESSORY/STARTER INPUT = White/red ignition harness
H3/10 NC (no connection)
NC

➢ Remote start input, 5-pin connector
1 BLACK/WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT = Hook up to ground
2 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT WIRE = BLACK ON IGNITOR
(DRIVER FENDER, NOT THE IGNITION COIL ON PASSENGER SIDE)
3 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT WIRE = Green/white at brake switch behind pedal
4 GRAY N/O or N/C (-) HOOD PIN SWITCH INPUT = Find a good location for the provided hoodpin (usually somewhere on the radiator support area, clean surface of paint where mounting switch so it can make ground. also needs to be fully depressed when the hood is closed but not stop the hood from fully closing. sometimes you have to drill a hole to mount the pin switch if there is not a premade hole on the radiator suppor area.)
5 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200 mA 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT = Cut short and tape


➢ Door lock harness, 3-pin connector
1 BLUE (+) LOCK (-) UNLOCK OUTPUT = green driver kick panel
2 EMPTY NOT USED
3 GREEN (-) LOCK (+) UNLOCK OUTPUT = red/black driver kick panel
(blue 20 pin connector is used for both)

 

[Talyn]

I've installed a few Viper 791 XV alarm systems. While it isn't a newer model, it does have quite a few options. I was able to program all I needed through the bypass switch. Just listen to the chirps and the light flash. Install was pretty easy aside from running wires and soldering the wires into the harness. I'd eventually like to upgrade to a newer model.

Does the Lexus have any kind of theft deterrent/immobilizer system like the Sentry Key in the Jeeps?

 

[iwannadie]

It has a basic alarm from the factory but no sentry key that I am aware of at all. At least all the people I have talked to about the same alarm and car have made no mention of it.

The 5901 seems really cool, I can't wait to get it all together and play with it. I made more progress today. I mounted the brain very discreetly and ran the wiring to where they will be spliced. When you look up under the steering wheel it looks totally stock so far no signs I've added anything or any sign of the viper brain.

I have to find a spot for the siren then actually start making my wire taps and hope it all works ha.

 

[iwannadie]

Well, got the alarm installed and I got a bunch of issues of course lol it is never ever easy with me no matter how much I plan ahead.

Issue 1, I can't find the parking light wire under the steering column I looked all over and just couldn't spot it. I will check that again tomorrow.

Issue 2, My driver side power door lock doesn't work open or close with remote or car buttons. Passenger side works just fine. I am going to double check the connection but it looked fine when I installed it.

Issue 3, I attempted to not use a relay for the truck and it didn't work ha. I am going to attempt the relay and if that works just go with that.

Issue 4 and biggest, Remote start does not work. I get an error on the keypad and then I can hear the parking light relay click 7 times. 7 "flashes" indicates "Manual transmission mode is enabled and not initialized.". My car is automatic and I thought it defaults to automatic?

On top of all that, I can't even get into the menu system, when I attempt to go into the menus it just goes into valet mode. I am guessing the door trigger wire is not correct at H1/8 GREEN (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT = Red/white drivers kick panel below fuse box and it thinks my door is closed. I am going to check that tomorrow, I only saw 1 red/white wire in that location though.

I am hoping once I get the door trigger input sorted out the remote start will fall into place and then just track down the other couple wires and I should be good.... Should.

/install woes

 

[Dubster]

You'll just have to find the parking light wire. It's there.

Your connection to the lock wires in the vehicle should have no affect on the operation of the switches in the vehicle. If one door works and the other doesn't I suspect you have a bad door lock actuator.

You will probably have to use a relay for the trunk. It requires higher current than the transistor output can handle.

Remote start isn't working because the unit is shipped in "manual transmission mode" for safety reasons. You will have to program it for "automatic transmission mode". Make sure the neutral safety wire is grounded and the neutral safety toggle switch is plugged in and turned "on".

Until you find the correct door trigger wire simply ground the green, door trigger wire of the alarm. Then turn ignition on/off and press and hold the valet switch. You will get one chirp, indicating menu 1. Continue to hold and you'll get 2 chirps, indicating menu 2. Continue holding and you'll get 3 chirps indicating menu 3. Once you hear the chirps corresponding to the menu you want let go of valet switch and push the number of time corresponding with the feature you want to change and then press and hold. Siren should chirp, corresponding with the feature number. Continue holding valet switch and press "lock button" on transmitter to change feature.

Hope this helps.

Dub

Well, got the alarm installed and I got a bunch of issues of course lol it is never ever easy with me no matter how much I plan ahead.

Issue 1, I can't find the parking light wire under the steering column I looked all over and just couldn't spot it. I will check that again tomorrow.

Issue 2, My driver side power door lock doesn't work open or close with remote or car buttons. Passenger side works just fine. I am going to double check the connection but it looked fine when I installed it.

Issue 3, I attempted to not use a relay for the truck and it didn't work ha. I am going to attempt the relay and if that works just go with that.

Issue 4 and biggest, Remote start does not work. I get an error on the keypad and then I can hear the parking light relay click 7 times. 7 "flashes" indicates "Manual transmission mode is enabled and not initialized.". My car is automatic and I thought it defaults to automatic?

On top of all that, I can't even get into the menu system, when I attempt to go into the menus it just goes into valet mode. I am guessing the door trigger wire is not correct at H1/8 GREEN (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT = Red/white drivers kick panel below fuse box and it thinks my door is closed. I am going to check that tomorrow, I only saw 1 red/white wire in that location though.

I am hoping once I get the door trigger input sorted out the remote start will fall into place and then just track down the other couple wires and I should be good.... Should.

/install woes

 

[iwannadie]

I am going to look at it later today, I did find out the ole lady said the driver side power door lock hasn't worked in a while. I thought that it did so no fault to the alarm there.

The dummy light on the gauge cluster shows when the driver side door alarm is open not sure why the alarm thinks it is closed, I will look at the connection closer and try grounding it.

My neutral safety wire has a good ground for sure. The switch is in the On position though I may check the connection at the alarm to be sure the connector didn't come loose when I stuffed it in place.

It was frustrating that the alarm just kept going into valet mode ha, no fault to the equipment it is obvious my install skills though.

 

[iwannadie]

Making progress, my H1/8 GREEN (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT = Red/white drivers kick panel below fuse box, was not correct. I pulled it and temporarily grounded the wire. I need to find the correct red/white to tap into now.

With the door wire grounded I was able to get into the viper menu and turn Off the MTS and remote start fired right up then would die instantly. I had to change the Tach setting so that it would actually run. So remote start turns on and I can remote turn off but the key doesn't turn off or activate the tilt steering wheel, next on the list. I swear the first time the remote start worked I used the key to turn it off then the rest of the times it acts like the key isn't in the ignition.