The traction bars that we're all using are attached in two places (vertically) on the housing, and one place on the frame/crossmember, using a combination of shackle/JJ/heims to allow movement of the front of the bar in every direction but up and down. There is no binding of the suspension so articulation is unaffected. Most traction bars of this design are also able to do double duty helping to protect the driveline from rock damage.
A single bar going from the top of the pumpkin to a crossmember will help, but will not stop spring wrap. The bottom of the pumkin can still pivot as the spring wraps into an S shape, so while the single arm resists wrap to some degree, it won't stop it. You can add multiple links, but the front half of the leaf springs are already links, so that won't work either. You can build a four link, and put shackles at both ends of the leaf springs, but that adds more weight, so if you have a four link you might as well use coils or quarter eliptics.
Rancho makes a kicker shock setup, which I ran for awhile, which resists wrap but won't stop it. There's also a company that makes a traction bar that runs from the top of the leaf spring plate to the frame by the front spring hanger, with a very stiff set of springs in the bar that allows for articulation. Again, this will resist wrap but won't stop it.
To allow the springs to work freely like we need them to, and to stop spring wrap altogether, the ladder bar with a hinged joint at the front is just what works. Hope this info helps........have fun building.