Thought i'd share the new rig..

Wife's WJ power window switch went dead on friday, spent saturday fixing that. No work on the transfercase this weekend.

Drove right by NAPA on saturday with a wheelstud in console.. totally forgot to stop and see if they had them longer in stock.

Sunday am i ran up to the Pocono's to visit Joe at Endless Mountain Fab to pick up my axle. Couple hours later the last of the welding was done. Joe figured he would check my housing for still being true.. it was off a touch so he adjusted. Wish i had my camera with me as that was cool to watch him pull off. Got home in time to watch the Superbowl.

Clean and paint, some new bearings and it'll be ready to toss under the ZJ.

Thanks Joe! Joe now has the jig setup for a ZJ housing for you other locals who wanna swap in a better axle in your ride.

rear44brksdone001_zps32d89b8a.jpg
 
ZipperheadXJ00 said:
But wouldn't from the right end of L5 to the right end of L1 be the usable length?
Click to expand...

Hmm, I actually think it makes perfect sense, and is actually how most screw lengths are spec'ed.


Think of a partially threaded screw/bolt. In this case a 3/8-16 x 2" hex bolt.

92186A632L.GIF


There is a portion of the shank that is not threaded, but is included in the length of the bolt. This unthreaded shank is equivalent to the knurled portion of the stud.

The working length needs to be greater than the cumulative thickness of the parts it is bolting together. (axle flange, the brake rotor/drum, the rim, the lug nuts, + a little extra) Since the axle flange is one of the pieces it bolts together, and axle flanges can vary thickness from vehicle to vehicle (wheel studs are universal), it should be considered in the working length.

Usually the threaded portion of a bolt is not a dimension well controlled (excluding precision hardware), where as the length is. You can see this in both the diagram I posted, as well as the diagram John posted. The overall length is specified, and the threaded length is a stack up of L1-L5. That means the tolerance on the threaded portion of the stud is the tolerance of L1 (+/-), plus the tolerance of L5 (+/-), so the range is larger.
 
Ordered the wheel studs that are almost 1/2" longer.. and are actually 00-01 XJ, 00-01 WJ and 00-06 TJ studs as referenced in this thread:

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1057992

AZ cant get the Dormans, Advanced is $5 per stud, Dealer was close to $5 per stud and also needed a VIN to look up in their system.. i used my bud's LJ Rubi VIN. NAPA was a cakewalk to look these up and will have tomorrow at $2.25 per.

My OEM studs are 1 5/8" and the longer will be 1 15/16".. enough to fill the entire lugnuts holding spacers on.
 
I'm surprised you didn't try rockauto... they have the exact same Dorman studs for 82 cents apiece.
 
Swapped the studs in. A D30 lower balljoint nut works well as a spacer to seat the studs, it will damage the nuts taper but i have a dozen ugly spares.

ZJwork001_zps168b6e8e.jpg


ZJwork004_zps32d4e744.jpg


Earlier today i swapped in a cleaner filter adapter with new orings and changed the oiul/filter. Tomorrow hope to get new ujoints in the original rear driveshaft and adjust pinion a bit better. Hope to be able to run up to a buds this weekend about an hour away.. partly Turnpike. She's gettin there slowly.

zjofadapter001_zpsd9f54cfb.jpg


Glad we didnt get anywhere near the snow you guys got up north.. wouldnt be getting anything done.

ZJwork006_zpsd53c28bc.jpg
 
ZipperheadXJ00 said:
Nice homemade tool!
Click to expand...

That has done alot of filter adapters over the years.. double wrench to break the stubborn ones loose. A ratchet wrench might work better as it can be a pita to use, typically only get a 1/4 turn at a time with it.

Outside now adjusting the rear pinion again.. i am 3* high. Going to lengthen the lowers a tad, remeasure and shorten the uppers if still needed. Toss new ujoints in rear driveshaft to get me mobile till i get the 44 and SYE'd 242 in.
 
OverlandZJ said:
That has done alot of filter adapters over the years.. double wrench to break the stubborn ones loose. A ratchet wrench might work better as it can be a pita to use, typically only get a 1/4 turn at a time with it.

Outside now adjusting the rear pinion again.. i am 3* high. Going to lengthen the lowers a tad, remeasure and shorten the uppers if still needed. Toss new ujoints in rear driveshaft to get me mobile till i get the 44 and SYE'd 242 in.
Click to expand...

I've did the double wrench trick on mine as well, thats a tight area!
 
No more room in a ZJ either..

Lengthened the rear lowers 3 turns and shortened the uppers two.. my old eyes see dead on horizontal with my tools in the back.. close enough for now.

Cleaned up as were expecting some rain/snow to start in about an hour or so.. i'll get to the ujoints tomorrow.
 
OverlandZJ said:
No more room in a ZJ either..

Lengthened the rear lowers 3 turns and shortened the uppers two.. my old eyes see dead on horizontal with my tools in the back.. close enough for now.

Cleaned up as were expecting some rain/snow to start in about an hour or so.. i'll get to the ujoints tomorrow.
Click to expand...

You set it dead even or 1-2* off? I've always had mine 1-2* off to allow for the grease to move through the U joints.
 
squashman702 said:
You set it dead even or 1-2* off? I've always had mine 1-2* off to allow for the grease to move through the U joints.
Click to expand...

Looks to be a degree down or dead even, should be fine once i unload the 100+lb of tools in the back. Remember, i get to do this all over again later.. :yelclap:
 
OverlandZJ said:
Looks to be a degree down or dead even, should be fine once i unload the 100+lb of tools in the back. Remember, i get to do this all over again later.. :yelclap:
Click to expand...

Ha good point.

You have a TC skid plate worked out? I have a new Clayton's belly skid that's been kicking around that's going to be no use with my setup.
 
squashman702 said:
You have a TC skid plate worked out? I have a new Clayton's belly skid that's been kicking around that's going to be no use with my setup.
Click to expand...


I dont see myself needing one honestly.. thanks for thinking of me though.

Pat laid claim on that manual ECU for a spare in the event you guys need it. Waiting to see how that works out at weeks end.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

NorCalChris
From Ghost to Post: An Update from the Shadows
Replies
14
Views
206
EricsXJ
EricsXJ
Ogri
94 XJ England New Member Pleased To Be Here
2
Replies
26
Views
414
Ogri
Ogri
RagnarTheDakotan
2001 Jeep Cherokee Classic New Build
Replies
3
Views
109
Anak
Anak
S
No start and shorted/melted connections inside overhead console.
Replies
7
Views
222
Tim_MN
Tim_MN
D
No start, no 5v power to cam sensor, about to give up….
2 3
Replies
42
Views
1K
armenbag
A
Back
Top