THe NAC Lots-O-BFG KO2 Thread

Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

That sounds right. I've got a broken one right here on my desk, cracked off at the grease fitting...

I'd probably go through Doug @ extreme axle anyway.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

Colin, isn't that K&K Mopar what Gary modeled his after?
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

That sounds right. I've got a broken one right here on my desk, cracked off at the grease fitting...

I'd probably go through Doug @ extreme axle anyway.

Yeah I have a little while before I need to order shafts anyway.

ARB/lockrite and gears are on the list after the PSC full hydro stuff.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

That sounds right. I've got a broken one right here on my desk, cracked off at the grease fitting...

Since I'm in a photo mood today apparently, here's my carnage museum on the side of my desk at work. Part of what I do here is failure analysis so I like to keep stuff around to compare types of breaks, materials, etc.

Loosely, from 12:00 clockwise:

- 4340 30-spline stub, the splines broke in two pieces are are the smaller chunks right below it

- Stock 30-spline stub (broken, twisted, also blew up the spindle). Note that the aftermarket ones break at the end and the stock ones tend to break in the middle, which is what screws the spindle up.

- Ball stud from the drag link on my Dodge, pulled apart towing a trailer through Philly. Fun.

- Stock 35-spline neckdown inner shaft. Broke this 50 feet into the first trail of my first shakedown run. It was probably cracked as I've never seen one just twist the entire yoke clean off like that. Looks sheared almost.

- 5/8" drill bit that snapped at the shank for no real reason

- Gearset out of one of our gearboxes here; those are the inner bearing races for two roller ball bearings that exploded and chewed the middle gear up.

- D300 front output

- what's left of my lower kingpin bearing

- 733x greasable u-joint, broke at the grease fitting, that trunion is to its bottom left. The cap in the middle cracked in half at the snap ring groove and the cap on the right cracked up the side.

My boss finds all of this stuff very amusing. :D

broken.jpg
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

what's the breadboard connected to the two 9V batteries? :geek:
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

Since I'm in a photo mood today apparently, here's my carnage museum on the side of my desk at work. Part of what I do here is failure analysis so I like to keep stuff around to compare types of breaks, materials, etc.

Loosely, from 12:00 clockwise:

- 4340 30-spline stub, the splines broke in two pieces are are the smaller chunks right below it

- Stock 30-spline stub (broken, twisted, also blew up the spindle). Note that the aftermarket ones break at the end and the stock ones tend to break in the middle, which is what screws the spindle up.

- Ball stud from the drag link on my Dodge, pulled apart towing a trailer through Philly. Fun.

- Stock 35-spline neckdown inner shaft. Broke this 50 feet into the first trail of my first shakedown run. It was probably cracked as I've never seen one just twist the entire yoke clean off like that. Looks sheared almost.

- 5/8" drill bit that snapped at the shank for no real reason

- Gearset out of one of our gearboxes here; those are the inner bearing races for two roller ball bearings that exploded and chewed the middle gear up.

- D300 front output

- what's left of my lower kingpin bearing

- 733x greasable u-joint, broke at the grease fitting, that trunion is to its bottom left. The cap in the middle cracked in half at the snap ring groove and the cap on the right cracked up the side.

My boss finds all of this stuff very amusing. :D


make a statue out of them
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

want to work on soundsystem :cry: and not be at work :badpc:
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

what's the breadboard connected to the two 9V batteries? :geek:

Oh boy. :D Good eye.

This was *almost* an excellent project. Actually, you might even have a parts source so I can finish it...

A lot of times on the back of the motors we build, the customer requests a rotary encoder for pulse counting, positioning, speed monitoring, etc. The ones we have in stock here are either 512 PPR or 1024 PPR, and either TTL (5VDC supply or HTL (10-30VDC).

Since we don't do any of the controls out of this office, if someone has a complaint that an encoder isn't working, we really have no way to check it. So one day at my buddy's junkyard I came across 4 of these little modular boards that had a 7-segment LED and SN74143N 4-bit counter/latch and LED driver. They just take a simple pulse input and increment the number shown on the LED, and they have carryover bits and all that fun kind of stuff so you can string them all together.

So those are the guts of what you're looking at...the breadboard is for signal routing and power distribution. The combined 18VDC hits a series of voltage regulators that send 5VDC to the LED drivers and then either 5VDC or 12VDC to the encoder depending on which range I wanna test. Since the drivers only want 5V, if I select 12V for the encoder, the return signal goes through an additional 5V regulator to step it down. Another switch chooses whether you want the A- or B- channel on the encoder.

I wired the encoder power feeds and signal lines into a push-down Ethernet connector jack, and made a dongle to go between that and the plug on the encoder itself. Reason being I could easily make another dongle for testing something with a different style plug.

So when it's all hooked up, you spin the encoder, each pulse increments the counter, and the index pulse resets the counter back to zero. So just by turning it (or this could be done with the encoder on a motor somewhere in the field), you can check whether both channels are pulsing, whether the index pulse is working, and what the pulse count of the encoder is.

All good, right?

Well, remember that I got these out of a random box of stuff at my buddy's junkyard. One of the modules was DOA, the other 3 "work", but one has a really high amp draw and heats up the SN74143N if you let it run too long, and also gets the dedicated 5VDC regulator really hot. I tried a while ago to find more of these boards but didn't find any, and now it's sat for long enough that I forgot all the pinouts & wiring information. So it works a little bit, but never got to the point where I could assemble it into the project enclosure (also in that pic) and call it good.

Considering I do mechanical & applications engineering here, I was kinda proud of this damn thing until the stupid boards didn't work. :(

encodertest.jpg
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

Oh boy. :D Good eye.

This was *almost* an excellent project. Actually, you might even have a parts source so I can finish it...

A lot of times on the back of the motors we build, the customer requests a rotary encoder for pulse counting, positioning, speed monitoring, etc. The ones we have in stock here are either 512 PPR or 1024 PPR, and either TTL (5VDC supply or HTL (10-30VDC).

Since we don't do any of the controls out of this office, if someone has a complaint that an encoder isn't working, we really have no way to check it. So one day at my buddy's junkyard I came across 4 of these little modular boards that had a 7-segment LED and SN74143N 4-bit counter/latch and LED driver. They just take a simple pulse input and increment the number shown on the LED, and they have carryover bits and all that fun kind of stuff so you can string them all together.

So those are the guts of what you're looking at...the breadboard is for signal routing and power distribution. The combined 18VDC hits a series of voltage regulators that send 5VDC to the LED drivers and then either 5VDC or 12VDC to the encoder depending on which range I wanna test. Since the drivers only want 5V, if I select 12V for the encoder, the return signal goes through an additional 5V regulator to step it down. Another switch chooses whether you want the A- or B- channel on the encoder.

I wired the encoder power feeds and signal lines into a push-down Ethernet connector jack, and made a dongle to go between that and the plug on the encoder itself. Reason being I could easily make another dongle for testing something with a different style plug.

So when it's all hooked up, you spin the encoder, each pulse increments the counter, and the index pulse resets the counter back to zero. So just by turning it (or this could be done with the encoder on a motor somewhere in the field), you can check whether both channels are pulsing, whether the index pulse is working, and what the pulse count of the encoder is.

All good, right?

Well, remember that I got these out of a random box of stuff at my buddy's junkyard. One of the modules was DOA, the other 3 "work", but one has a really high amp draw and heats up the SN74143N if you let it run too long, and also gets the dedicated 5VDC regulator really hot. I tried a while ago to find more of these boards but didn't find any, and now it's sat for long enough that I forgot all the pinouts & wiring information. So it works a little bit, but never got to the point where I could assemble it into the project enclosure (also in that pic) and call it good.

Considering I do mechanical & applications engineering here, I was kinda proud of this damn thing until the stupid boards didn't work. :(
Damnit, I had a good reply written up and then accidentally closed this tab.

I've never used the 74143 but I do have some Nixie tube driver circuits built around the 7441/74141, which is similarly antique and obsoleted decades ago by any serious manufacturer. I don't know of any sources for the 74143 (NTE may make one, but I strongly suggest staying away from them, I have had horrible luck with their parts and it seems they "make" many of them by buying up new old stock and old lots of parts from wherever they can find them, including china, and then cleaning the manufacturer's numbers off with solvents and printing their own numbers on. I had multiple magic/blue smoke release incidents before I swore them off) but you may want to look into the MC14553 and MC14511. The 553 is a three digit BCD counter and the 511 is a BCD to 7seg decoder/driver. ON Semiconductor (who I have had great luck with in the past, they inherited all the discrete and logic products from Motorola while Freescale got all the CPUs and MCUs) makes modern versions of these chips and they are in stock on Mouser. You'd need a single MC14553 and 3 MC14511s for each channel as far as I can tell. The bonus is that if you use these chips in the B edition (i.e. MC14553B) they are good from 3 volts to 18 volts supply, so you can toss most of the regulation and level conversion out the window.

Also, where the hell do your customers dig up HTL hardware? That's like... straight out of the cretacious period or something :roflmao:
 
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Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

I just sent a BIG quote over to ECGS...

I have no plans of buying any of it for another 3-4 weeks, just curious what it might cost.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

I'm guessing gears, install kits, yukon shafts inners and outers, arb's f&r
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

- 88 Ford HP60 10 Factory complete front axle kit with spicer 5-806s
- front D60 drive flanges
- D60 ARB 4.56 and up (RD35)
- D60 lockright (35-spline)
- Yukon rear D60 35-spline chromo shafts (1x 36.5", 1x 39.5")
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

No gears, install kits, bearings, inner seals, hub seals, etc?
I'm disappointed. :D
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

i would look into nitro shafts too.

i got a pair of 44 alloy outers with a no questions lifetime warranty for $200 shipped from ecgs.

and i have arguably done my most strenuous wheeling to date on them and they have held up longer than my yukons,stockers, and mosers all combined.
 
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