foxwar71
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Foxboro, MA
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread
i just sat on the couch and watched rush hour 3
i just sat on the couch and watched rush hour 3
Anthony, might have luck asking 5-90 or checking his site - he collects bolt size/thread/grade info and puts it on one of the pages there. Not sure if the tranny stuff is on there yet.No clue at all. It was over a year ago and I never wrote it down.
Sorry dood![]()
5 amps should do it for the fogs, 10 for the headlamps. Use I = P/V where V=12 (which results in the fuse being just a little overrated @ 13.8 volts, which is what you want so it only pops if there's an overload, not at normal load while you're driving)
EDIT - that's per lamp, so I guess you'd end up using all four positions in that block if you did that.
Yeah, I'd use wiring rated for 30 amps though - that makes upgrading to higher wattage lamps simple, just pull the fuse and replace. Fuses should always be rated for a bit over the current you expect during normal operation*, though you might have to do a bit more overkill or use slow-blow fuses for reactive loads such as motors and amplifier surge capacitor banks.So if I'm using relays, would you say a 20amp fuse for the relays, even though they are 30amp relays?
since i have a few jeeps for sale, it really bothers me when someone shows up to look at buying my stuff and brings their mom with them.
since i have a few jeeps for sale, it really bothers me when someone shows up to look at buying my stuff and brings their mom with them.
I don't have anything that nice. I have a '91 Fox. I didnt think it would but but I figured I'd ask. I'm selling it in April anyways so I don't really care if I lower it or not.that's really really really not safe. welding springs is never good. springs are the same metallic content throughout. when you weld, you introduce a funky combination of heat treatment and dissimilar metals. and the weld is basically way stiffer than the surrounding spring and will crack. don't do it :twak:
my mkV gti has vogtlands with konig adjustable struts. rides nice.
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travis has 4053 posts in this thread alone.
i may need help with silly wiring stuff.ill let you know in a bit.If it can wait till evening, count me the hell in!
Let me know, I'll toss the DMM/soldering gear/heatshrink/crimps/pressure crimper/assorted nonsense in the back and head over. I've been itching for an excuse to use this crimper... reminds me, I need to plan out my PDU and the headlight harness more.gotta pull a motor,put a beam in(xj)-beam done, motor not so much
track bar+more(mj)-
heater switch(other xj)-done but still doesnt work
replace misc bulbs(mj)
figure out why the rear pass taillight is not getting power(other mj)-voltmeter crapped out
check front brakes(other mj)
i may need help with silly wiring stuff.ill let you know in a bit.
im gonna replace the bulbs that are shot on the SB mj,cause one side blinks,and the other side goes solid when the lights go on.
also, some of the gauges peg out when the lights go on too.
ill post up after i check it out.
i also tried to put in a stock radio, but no power, good fuse.
im also gonna check out the steering.
it steers awesome goin left, but right is horrible.
Yeah, I'd use wiring rated for 30 amps though - that makes upgrading to higher wattage lamps simple, just pull the fuse and replace. Fuses should always be rated for a bit over the current you expect during normal operation*, though you might have to do a bit more overkill or use slow-blow fuses for reactive loads such as motors and amplifier surge capacitor banks.
EDIT: * or just under the power handling capability of the weakest link in the system. If normal power draw is over the rating of the weakest link (like running 100 watt bulbs on 5 amp relays for instance), well, the weakest link needs upgrading.
Alright, since I'm sort of retarded