sheepjeep
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Boston, MA
-
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THe NAC Lots-O-BFG KO2 Thread
- Thread starter ROBZ95Xj
- Start date
vetteboy
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- morganville, nj
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread
So here's my latest little conundrum.
I'm starting to put together all the details to sync my motor together with the Holley computer. Most things are falling into place easily but the crank sensor is problematic.
The stock Ford crank sensor reads off the timing belt pulley which has 24 evenly-spaced teeth, with #1 TDC being indicated by the cam sensor which is just one pulse per revolution. The Holley computer needs either a one pulse-per-fire signal (3 pulses per crank revolution) or a multi-tooth-with-some-missing signal (common is 58x, or 60-2, which is a 60-tooth wheel with 2 consecutive teeth missing as an angular reference).
The more pulses per revolution, the more accurately the sensor can read engine RPM (especially during acceleration), which means more accurate control of timing. So if I have to retrofit something, I might as well start with the 58x system recommended in the manual.
My options then become trying to adapt a universal timing wheel to the crank pulley somehow:
and then relocating the crank sensor out front someplace similar to how that Jeep 4.0 retrofit kit works, but I'd rather not have the sensor hanging out in front of the motor like that.
Since all these things just use a hall effect sensor anyway, I think the better option might be to start with a 4.2 flywheel instead of my 4.0 one (the 4.2 has no notches around the outside), and machine the 58x pattern around the perimeter of it to be read by the stock Jeep CPS which I still have a spot for in the bellhousing. This gets to be a maximum of 8kHz frequency which should still be in the range of a typical hall effect sensor.
The exact alignment of the missing tooth notch on the flywheel compared to TDC isn't all that important as you need it to be about 60* before TDC anyway, and the software has values where you input a) the amount of teeth preceding TDC and b) a manual timing adjustment to compensate demanded timing vs. actual. So if I bolt up the 4.2 flywheel and set the motor to TDC, and reach in through the CPS access port to make a mark, that should be more than enough to get things running.
Any glaring issues before I spend more time thinking about this? More worried about the Jeep end of things - flywheel interchangeability (I believe they're all neutral balanced, which would match my motor), starter ring gear, thickness, etc. I don't know shit about the jeep stuff but I think the flywheel should be relatively easy to swap between generations...
So here's my latest little conundrum.
I'm starting to put together all the details to sync my motor together with the Holley computer. Most things are falling into place easily but the crank sensor is problematic.
The stock Ford crank sensor reads off the timing belt pulley which has 24 evenly-spaced teeth, with #1 TDC being indicated by the cam sensor which is just one pulse per revolution. The Holley computer needs either a one pulse-per-fire signal (3 pulses per crank revolution) or a multi-tooth-with-some-missing signal (common is 58x, or 60-2, which is a 60-tooth wheel with 2 consecutive teeth missing as an angular reference).
The more pulses per revolution, the more accurately the sensor can read engine RPM (especially during acceleration), which means more accurate control of timing. So if I have to retrofit something, I might as well start with the 58x system recommended in the manual.
My options then become trying to adapt a universal timing wheel to the crank pulley somehow:
and then relocating the crank sensor out front someplace similar to how that Jeep 4.0 retrofit kit works, but I'd rather not have the sensor hanging out in front of the motor like that.
Since all these things just use a hall effect sensor anyway, I think the better option might be to start with a 4.2 flywheel instead of my 4.0 one (the 4.2 has no notches around the outside), and machine the 58x pattern around the perimeter of it to be read by the stock Jeep CPS which I still have a spot for in the bellhousing. This gets to be a maximum of 8kHz frequency which should still be in the range of a typical hall effect sensor.
The exact alignment of the missing tooth notch on the flywheel compared to TDC isn't all that important as you need it to be about 60* before TDC anyway, and the software has values where you input a) the amount of teeth preceding TDC and b) a manual timing adjustment to compensate demanded timing vs. actual. So if I bolt up the 4.2 flywheel and set the motor to TDC, and reach in through the CPS access port to make a mark, that should be more than enough to get things running.
Any glaring issues before I spend more time thinking about this? More worried about the Jeep end of things - flywheel interchangeability (I believe they're all neutral balanced, which would match my motor), starter ring gear, thickness, etc. I don't know shit about the jeep stuff but I think the flywheel should be relatively easy to swap between generations...
foxwar71
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Foxboro, MA
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread
I still think that ram is too big, I don't know if there's even enough room to tuck it in there behind the tierod. And I think somebody sells replacement caps that are setup for hydro assist lines as an alternative to tapping the box
I still think that ram is too big, I don't know if there's even enough room to tuck it in there behind the tierod. And I think somebody sells replacement caps that are setup for hydro assist lines as an alternative to tapping the box
Dundy
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Taunton, MA
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread
I'll just tap it (it's free!). I threw the ram under the jeep in a few spots when I got home Sunday. I mocked it up so it bolted off the upper control arm bracket just above the tie rod. Seems like it should fit fine there.
I'll just tap it (it's free!). I threw the ram under the jeep in a few spots when I got home Sunday. I mocked it up so it bolted off the upper control arm bracket just above the tie rod. Seems like it should fit fine there.
foxwar71
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Foxboro, MA
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread
I think you're also gunna run into hose clearance issues, those stupid huge rod ends didn't look like you could clock them to have them match up with the tierod, the fittings might end up in the axle tube. I'll play around with it and then make fun of you until you buy nice PSC stuff.
I think you're also gunna run into hose clearance issues, those stupid huge rod ends didn't look like you could clock them to have them match up with the tierod, the fittings might end up in the axle tube. I'll play around with it and then make fun of you until you buy nice PSC stuff.
cmelo
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Stoughton,MA
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread
Timing wheel on crank pulley seems a million times easier
So here's my latest little conundrum.
I'm starting to put together all the details to sync my motor together with the Holley computer. Most things are falling into place easily but the crank sensor is problematic.
The stock Ford crank sensor reads off the timing belt pulley which has 24 evenly-spaced teeth, with #1 TDC being indicated by the cam sensor which is just one pulse per revolution. The Holley computer needs either a one pulse-per-fire signal (3 pulses per crank revolution) or a multi-tooth-with-some-missing signal (common is 58x, or 60-2, which is a 60-tooth wheel with 2 consecutive teeth missing as an angular reference).
The more pulses per revolution, the more accurately the sensor can read engine RPM (especially during acceleration), which means more accurate control of timing. So if I have to retrofit something, I might as well start with the 58x system recommended in the manual.
My options then become trying to adapt a universal timing wheel to the crank pulley somehow:
and then relocating the crank sensor out front someplace similar to how that Jeep 4.0 retrofit kit works, but I'd rather not have the sensor hanging out in front of the motor like that.
Since all these things just use a hall effect sensor anyway, I think the better option might be to start with a 4.2 flywheel instead of my 4.0 one (the 4.2 has no notches around the outside), and machine the 58x pattern around the perimeter of it to be read by the stock Jeep CPS which I still have a spot for in the bellhousing. This gets to be a maximum of 8kHz frequency which should still be in the range of a typical hall effect sensor.
The exact alignment of the missing tooth notch on the flywheel compared to TDC isn't all that important as you need it to be about 60* before TDC anyway, and the software has values where you input a) the amount of teeth preceding TDC and b) a manual timing adjustment to compensate demanded timing vs. actual. So if I bolt up the 4.2 flywheel and set the motor to TDC, and reach in through the CPS access port to make a mark, that should be more than enough to get things running.
Any glaring issues before I spend more time thinking about this? More worried about the Jeep end of things - flywheel interchangeability (I believe they're all neutral balanced, which would match my motor), starter ring gear, thickness, etc. I don't know shit about the jeep stuff but I think the flywheel should be relatively easy to swap between generations...
Timing wheel on crank pulley seems a million times easier
cmelo
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Stoughton,MA
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread
My back is so ****ed up I have to hold my side just to fart.
My back is so ****ed up I have to hold my side just to fart.
cmelo
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Stoughton,MA
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread
Hey guys whats up?
Hey guys whats up?
squashman702
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Brighton, MA
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread
Hi carl, need a massage?
Hi carl, need a massage?
cmelo
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Stoughton,MA
Dundy
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Taunton, MA
squashman702
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Brighton, MA
squashman702
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Brighton, MA
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread
It just got sexy in here.
It just got sexy in here.
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread
this.
check the Megasquirt scene for laser cut wheels to stick directly to the balancer. Then you'll just need a bracket for the vr sensor.
this.
check the Megasquirt scene for laser cut wheels to stick directly to the balancer. Then you'll just need a bracket for the vr sensor.
vetteboy
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- morganville, nj
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread
Nevermind, I r tarded.
There's actually a little wheel that hides behind the timing pulley, that provides 3 pulses per crank revolution.
Should be able to work with that.
Nevermind, I r tarded.
There's actually a little wheel that hides behind the timing pulley, that provides 3 pulses per crank revolution.
Should be able to work with that.
MoparManiac
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Amherst, NH
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread
Slapped the oil pan/windage tray on last night and setup the valvetrain so I can adjust the rockers probably tomorrow night.
Do not want to be at work right now.
Slapped the oil pan/windage tray on last night and setup the valvetrain so I can adjust the rockers probably tomorrow night.
Do not want to be at work right now.
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