THe NAC Lots-O-BFG KO2 Thread

[asp]

Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

Those things would have to be clogged to hell (injectors and filter) to see a decent change in fuel economy.

Yeah, they sure would. I think one of them is clogged bad enough to cause misfires, so who knows. I'm doing a bunch of other stuff while I'm in there too though. (Coil packs, plugs, fuel filter, maybe a catch can)

all i noticed in my jeep was a nicer idle when i cleaned mine... and those injectors had ~150k on em at the time

My VW's idle has never been baby's-bottom-smooth. I'm hoping it will be after this.

 

[RCman]

Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

Cheap/free is the name of this game. I want it to sound good. Not ridiculous.

I still have those NIB 10s and amp, but it ain't gonna be free and I'd want the amp to go with 'em. So maybe not for you.

Time for:
Put it up for sale

Really? 'Bout time! :clap:

Does stink though, bummer.

probably for the same reason they put kerosene in parts washers

This man knows.

 

[XBoBJ]

Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

im going to buy an f250 gasser. i cant stand DD'ing this stupid jeep. can summer come so i can ride my dumb motorcycle.

 

[RCman]

Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

5.4L? Puke.

Please don't, and I'm not hating on Fords for no reason here, the 5.4L does NOT belong in a 3/4 or 1 ton truck. I hardly moves an F150. Ford did/does make some good things, but putting that engine in a "heavy duty" pickup was not smart. If it isn't the 5.4L V8, it'll be the 6.8L V10... which is almost as bad.

 

[Begster]

Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

Adam, I have a pair of kenwood 12" subs installed in a box sitting in my basement...

 

[XBoBJ]

Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

5.4L? Puke.

Please, and I'm not hating on Fords for no reason here, the 5.4L does NOT belong in a 3/4 or 1 ton truck. I hardly moves an F150.

ughhh scratch that lol. whats a decent gasser? f350? I looked at some chevy 1500 im kinda ehhhh on them. f250's are super cheap 8-10k

 

[RCman]

Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

ughhh scratch that lol. whats a decent gasser? f350? I looked at some chevy 1500 im kinda ehhhh on them. f250's are super cheap 8-10k

Fords are cheap for a reason...

If you really want a gaser there is nothing wrong with that, just get a GM (better) or Dodge (2nd best) product.
Again, Ford did/does make some good things, but gas trucks bigger than a 1/2ton isn't one of them.

 

[XBoBJ]

Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

Fords are cheap for a reason...

If you really want a gaser there is nothing wrong with that, just get a GM (better) or Dodge (2nd best) product.

i dont really want a gasser. They are more my price range. ill keep looking.

 

[kastein]

Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

Chris can probably chime in with more advice, I'm far from an expert on this shit.

I just went with the tried and true 2x2x.250 since my MJ will be fairly heavy when finished and I plan on landing on my rockers a lot.

I plan on landing on my rockers a lot so I left them stock. The more I land on them the better my ground clearance gets.

My CEL in my VW is a misfire on cyl 1 and intake runner stuck open. Further investigation yields that it might be the injector clogging causing the misfire. The coil is also soaked in oil. Could be either the valve cover gasket that's loose or blown. Might also need to do the PCV fix.

Time for:
Oil change (have to do that anyway)
Fuel filter
Plugs
Valve cover gasket

Hoping I don't need injectors. Is there a way to flush out injectors to clean them rather than replacement?

I would spray the business end with tb cleaner then backflush with diesel or injector cleaner, then flush injector cleaner through the regular direction, then hose them down with tb cleaner again and reinstall.

 

[cmelo]

Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

I plan on landing on my rockers a lot so I left them stock. The more I land on them the better my ground clearance gets.

Even I want rocker protection, I like opening my doors and having something to tie a cage into :dunno:

 

[redneckboarder]

Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

so for my battery on the trailer to power the winch. I'm gonna run a 10 gauge wire with a 30a fuse and a diode so it cant backfeed. this will be to recharge the battery when the trailer is hooked up and will be disconnected when the winch is in use.

does anybody forsee me letting all the magic smoke out of the wires?

also if the winch will only be doing straight pulls is there any use for a fairlead?

 

[asp]

Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

Really? 'Bout time! :clap:

Does stink though, bummer.

Nah it ain't that bad. I bought the car with 56k on it and who knows if this stuff has ever been changed. If that's the case, the oem parts lasted twice their service interval per the manual.

I placed the order for everything but the catch can already. OEM or equivalent parts for $200 TMD.

There are catch can setups for $300 that bolt in, but I could make my own way cheaper... Hmmm...

I would spray the business end with tb cleaner then backflush with diesel or injector cleaner, then flush injector cleaner through the regular direction, then hose them down with tb cleaner again and reinstall.

That sounds pretty thorough and what I will probably do.

 

[kastein]

Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

Even I want rocker protection, I like opening my doors and having something to tie a cage into :dunno:

My doors don't open if I get stuck on the frame with the tires hanging, but they open fine again afterwards. If the rockers bend up to that point ill smack them back down with my universal problem solving mallet.

so for my battery on the trailer to power the winch. I'm gonna run a 10 gauge wire with a 30a fuse and a diode so it cant backfeed. this will be to recharge the battery when the trailer is hooked up and will be disconnected when the winch is in use.

does anybody forsee me letting all the magic smoke out of the wires?

also if the winch will only be doing straight pulls is there any use for a fairlead?

A fairlead will keep the cable spooling straighter probably, and I really would run heavier cable and leave it connected while winching... not doing this will beat the hell out of the battery and it won't winch as well or for as long.

 

[redneckboarder]

Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

oh i plan on running big wire when i find the spare $$ i just had all this crap lying around and time to kill

 

[ktm racer 419]

Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

My doors don't open if I get stuck on the frame with the tires hanging, but they open fine again afterwards. If the rockers bend up to that point ill smack them back down with my universal problem solving mallet.


.

my green jeep got the the point where the a pillar and b pillars were pulled into eachother and the door wouldnt fit anymore

 

[vetteboy]

Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

Hey Ken et al.

I gotta do a physical battery disconnect on the XJ for racing this year - the auto-shutdown kill isn't enough. If I remove the positive cable from the battery it'll keep running from the alternator charging feed.

The battery's behind the front passenger seat. So I either have to a) run a new charging lead & fuse to the battery side of the disconnect switch, or b) run the field excitation lead to the battery side of the disconnect switch.

Option A sucks because that'll need to be yet another fairly heavy gauge wire running at least to the dash area unless I do a remote solenoid, and of course that wire will have power whenever the truck's running so it'll need to be well protected.

Option B sucks a little less because it can be done with smaller gauge wire, but I don't know how the field gets excited on the XJ alternator. Where would I tap into that...before the diodes/regulator etc? Is that just one wire that splits to the various diodes at the molded plastic harness connector?

 

[MoparManiac]

Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

Chris,

I haven't looked at it in a while, but I know on the '93 harness I have there are two lead wires (green/red I think) and a larger ground wire coming out of that molded connector. Pretty sure the ground wire goes straight to the block next to the coil.

I'm wondering if you couldn't just have a switch on one of the leads to kill the ECUs ability to regulate voltage? I haven't looked at my FSM for that stuff in months, sorry.

 

[kastein]

Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

That's a real interesting idea, I like it. Cuts down on high current relays / contactors very nicely.

Just checked my 95 FSM (don't have a 94 FSM yet but the alternator wiring should be almost the same.) There are two small wires for the field coil in C149 (the goofy shaped one that bolts onto the alternator) and terminals 2 and 3 are the field coil. One goes to a splice (splice 127) via a dark green and orange wire. This also feeds the ignition coil. The wire goes through connector C146. The other side of the field coil also goes through C146, it's the dark green wire. Putting a small (it's a 16 gauge wire so any auto relay should do really) relay in the dark green wire with the coil fed off the kill switch would work nicely, so would interrupting the dark green/orange wire at C146 or upstream.

Funny thing is, that dark green / orange wire feeds off the ASD relay. So your ASD relay killer + the main kill switch really should do the job.

Honestly I'd probably use a relay in the dark green wire from the field coil to the ECU, coil fed off the physical disconnect. To avoid draining the battery you'll have to leave the disconnect pulled but that's not too big a deal.

 

[MoparManiac]

Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

Man going through that entire harness really has it's benefits.

:laugh:

 

[vetteboy]

Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

Chris,

I haven't looked at it in a while, but I know on the '93 harness I have there are two lead wires (green/red I think) and a larger ground wire coming out of that molded connector. Pretty sure the ground wire goes straight to the block next to the coil.

I'm wondering if you couldn't just have a switch on one of the leads to kill the ECUs ability to regulate voltage? I haven't looked at my FSM for that stuff in months, sorry.

Nah, gotta be a physical disconnect between the battery and the vehicle.

edit: wait, I'm thinking of something wrong. Putting the field wire behind the kill switch would leave it hot all the time = defeats the purpose.

The net result needs to be that the field wire can't get fed back into by the charging lead.

I don't see a way to do that on the factory harness without relocating the charging lead either way.

Unless I'm missing something here?