THe NAC Lots-O-BFG KO2 Thread

Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

kastein said:
Funny thing is, that dark green / orange wire feeds off the ASD relay. So your ASD relay killer + the main kill switch really should do the job.
Click to expand...

I can keep the ASD relay one as a secondary kill, but the battery switch needs to be able to shut down the vehicle on its own.

Tons of people have done this...part of what I did when I was tech'ing cars at the local dirt circle track was checking the battery disconnect for operation. :laugh: There's gotta be something I'm not seeing.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

MoparManiac said:
So is the consensus that you HAVE to have a battery kill switch Chris...?

Is this new rule for Line Mtn? If so, I better rig one up.
Click to expand...

This is for RCRocs. I have to add door bars too, which I'm still quite bitter about. :thumbdn:

Line Mountain requires a clearly labeled kill switch (besides the regular keyed ignition), but the ASD one is fine for that.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

Two other things:

The winch can be routed around the cutoff. So the amp rating on the cutoff switch really only has to be high enough for normal charging/running, tradeoff being I have to re-wire the winch to the battery side of the cutoff.

They make cutoff switches with a main disconnect and an auxiliary disconnect just for this purpose, but the biggest I've found is 175 amp...probably fine if I don't include the winch. So I'd put the ASD relay feed on the light-duty terminals, but probably keep the existing switch too, so I don't kill the accessory feed every time I shut the truck down.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

yay more crap!
2c86f055.jpg
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

MoparManiac said:
I'd consider doing RCrocs for fun.

I'm guessing Line Mtn is more fun though.
Click to expand...

I'm sure as shit not doing RCRocs because I think I have a chance of being competitive. :laugh:

WAY more rules. Last two years I could run without a door bar *if* you had a factory door with a redundant latching mechanism in case the factory latch failed...

4057214844_7fff67344c_z.jpg


They changed it this year to require door bars on everything, factory doors or not.

My argument was that a) it already meets federal side impact standards with the door there, b) it's easier to exit the vehicle in a hurry, and c) replacing the door with a single piece of 1.75" x .120 and a thin sheetmetal/lexan skin doesn't sound any safer. Not to mention that I don't have a good way of doing this.

Their argument was that it was making the rules too confusing and they just wanted to make it an across-the-board requirement. WTF? How hard is it to say, like in the last two years, "if you have factory doors with a redundant latch, door bars are not required"? That's not ambiguous at all.

But rules are rules, and if I told them almost word-for-word that if I had to, I'd hack something together that makes it harder for me to get in and out of the truck while providing less side impact protection. And I guess I have to if I wanna race. XXXXing dumb.

Honestly I could use the space inside, and it's something that I *wanted* to do at one point, but now I'm totally over doing any major reconstructive work on this rig. I think I'm going to:

- chop out the interior A-pillars (my helmet will thank me for this)
- relocate dash bar outside
- add B-pillars on the outside (triple B-pillar design then, hell yeah)
- make a stupid XXXXing door bar from the A- to B-pillar
- cut the outer skin from the factory doors and bolt it on with some tabs

Theoretically over the next two weeks, while I also figure out this disconnect, add a rear amber light, fix the blown out motor mount, and a few other things.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

vetteboy said:
Nah, gotta be a physical disconnect between the battery and the vehicle.

edit: wait, I'm thinking of something wrong. Putting the field wire behind the kill switch would leave it hot all the time = defeats the purpose.

The net result needs to be that the field wire can't get fed back into by the charging lead.

I don't see a way to do that on the factory harness without relocating the charging lead either way.

Unless I'm missing something here?
Click to expand...
How is the physical disconnect done? One big ass switch or is it a switch that controls a contactor? If it's a switch that controls a contactor I can think of a fairly simple way to do this, otherwise it'll take a little more brainstorming.

EDIT: I'd go with the one with the secondary set of contacts and move the winch wiring. The way my winch wiring is done, it'd already be in the right spot though... I have it fed directly off a line to the battery. Should put a fuse in when I permanently mount the solenoid and re-run the positive feed I guess.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

kastein said:
How is the physical disconnect done? One big ass switch or is it a switch that controls a contactor? If it's a switch that controls a contactor I can think of a fairly simple way to do this, otherwise it'll take a little more brainstorming.
Click to expand...

You can use a remote contactor:

http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcatalog/largeview.php?SearchField=30205

however that costs like 4x as much as a 250-amp disconnect switch.

If I was gonna do that I'd just replace my existing kill switch with a DPST one and use one half for the ASD and the other half for the contactor, NBD. Problem is with the contactor you *need* to have the battery disconnected all the time when you're not using it, because the solenoid has a 2.5-amp draw.

I'm sure there's a way to do it cheaper though. My alternator is at least 130 amps, it's pretty hot...how big a fuse & wire do you think it'd need to run the charging wire back to the dash area where the switch would be?
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

I wouldn't run the charging wire back there and then to the battery... yikes.

The lazy cheap easy way:
Physical disconnect right at the battery. Winch below or above it, your preference, I'd run it direct to the battery though. Move the alternator charge wire (it's the big fat red one from the alternator... pretty easy :laugh2:) to the battery side of the disconnect.

When you pull the disconnect, it'll remove power from the entire PDC, which will drop power to the field coil as a nice side effect. Dunno why this wouldn't pass tech unless they really want you to disconnect your now-inert alternator from the battery.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

mini=man said:
Anyone know where I can get a TJ AX-15 for cheap? I may need one after tomorrow.
Click to expand...
IIRC, they're super similar, if they're different at all... It might be just a different bellhousing. I can't remember for sure.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

kastein said:
I wouldn't run the charging wire back there and then to the battery... yikes.

The lazy cheap easy way:
Physical disconnect right at the battery. Winch below or above it, your preference, I'd run it direct to the battery though. Move the alternator charge wire (it's the big fat red one from the alternator... pretty easy :laugh2:) to the battery side of the disconnect.

When you pull the disconnect, it'll remove power from the entire PDC, which will drop power to the field coil as a nice side effect. Dunno why this wouldn't pass tech unless they really want you to disconnect your now-inert alternator from the battery.
Click to expand...

Ken, my battery is behind the passenger seat, and the switch needs to be within reach of the driver when harnessed in. :laugh3: So there's gonna be large wiring regardless.

So that's why I'd have to run the charging wire to the dash area, which would also require putting an inline fuse in there somewhere.

That's the simplest way to do it, but it still sucks.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

vetteboy said:
Ken, my battery is behind the passenger seat, and the switch needs to be within reach of the driver when harnessed in. :laugh3: So there's gonna be large wiring regardless.

So that's why I'd have to run the charging wire to the dash area, which would also require putting an inline fuse in there somewhere.

That's the simplest way to do it, but it still sucks.
Click to expand...
oh christ, I forgot that :doh:

If you can think of a way to do it, you can probably have it auto-disable things by using some nifty tricks. SPDT relays can be set up to latch on when current is applied to a wire and then latch off (till you re-apply current again) and you can always play tricks with the disconnect having a voltage across it once the whole thing is stopped and using that to run a relay somehow.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

MoparManiac said:
I'd be real tempted to get that solenoid from Painless...
Click to expand...

Does the XJ ECU 'learn' stuff?

Like I said, I'd effectively be cutting power to the ECU every time I shut the truck down. I guess it's not a huge deal.

Another caveat is that in addition to the winch, you can run constant power to the ECU as well so all the LS guys with fancy tunes don't lose the learned fuel maps and stuff.

That sounds like way too much trouble to try and do on mine.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

:dunno:

I've had batteries out for days, left it disconnected for days, and never had a problem just hopping in and driving.

Never noticed anything odd.
 
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