THe NAC Lots-O-BFG KO2 Thread

Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

Here is a list of people that I owe beer/money at fall crawl:
Travis:$50
Billy:$30
Colin:$75

All of you will also be welcome for a drive in the almighty Honcho.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

I've never measured all the pieces in the install kit, but is there a 0.005 shim you could use with the 0.018.
I measured all of them out and I have 3-0.018, 1-0.027, 2-0.028, 3-0.038, and 1-0.039 It's pretty lame not gonna lie, not impressed with what Nitro gives you in the install kits or the way they package them.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

some dude from south africa keeps sending me messages looking for help with a jeep he bought that has a M90 installed on it. supposely it has no blowoff/bypass valve and he said he blew the motor :dunno:

i get the vague feeling he found red jeep's old thread about FI
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

some dude from south africa keeps sending me messages looking for help with a jeep he bought that has a M90 installed on it. supposely it has no blowoff/bypass valve and he said he blew the motor :dunno:

i get the vague feeling he found red jeep's old thread about FI
STFU and come up here and help me with my red jeep!:soapbox:
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

STFU and come up here and help me with my red jeep!:soapbox:

2vxn8l0.jpg
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

I measured all of them out and I have 3-0.018, 1-0.027, 2-0.028, 3-0.038, and 1-0.039 It's pretty lame not gonna lie, not impressed with what Nitro gives you in the install kits or the way they package them.

That's pretty crappy. Good install kits will give you 0.010 and 0.005 and even smaller. I think yukon's install kits suck too. Unfortunately, I can't remember what the "good" brand is right now
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

the more i think of it wheelin a 5spd would be funner, i just havent had the pleasure of doing so yet

T-pain showed me the light. Though I took it a step further and have an NV4500 and an NP435.

:D

pic is only after 1 coat of paint, but those who hae seen the garage know how much of an improvement it is, its already alot brighter in there
wall_003.jpg

Damn, definitely way better in there now! :thumbup:

Nothing specific just a general observation, I do work in Brockton from time to time.

By the way are you around tomorrow Colin? I was gonna swing by and pick up all the junk you want out of the yard.

I did also dodge a bullet today as the sheriff's office was going to serve my ex with the custody papers at my house while she was visiting my daughter, however they didnt show. I really wasnt in the mood to deal with her after that.

Yeah Brockton sucks. I won't be around today, but I can list off some stuff you can take if you feel like swinging by. I haven't pulled the oil pan off that engine yet as I want it for the 4.0 going in my MJ (it has a dumb rubber plug).

If you want to pick up the 44 housing (junk), and the knuckles/ball joints (good) feel free.

The steering I still might try to pawn off on someone (all TREs are good) and I still need to get the oil pan off the 4.0 for the 4.0 going in my MJ (has a dumb rubber plug).

Here is a list of people that I owe beer/money at fall crawl:
Travis:$50
Billy:$30
Colin:$75

All of you will also be welcome for a drive in the almighty Honcho.

I get to go first since I'm towing it :D

Tranny is in with my dumb spacer plate. Tranny jacks are awesome. I have cool new shocks thanks to colin. Poopidy poopidy poop.

:thumbup:. I'm still not 100% sure on that weld for the d-ring tab. I feel like it's too undercut, but it was right where the bevel started so I'm not sure.

Can you grab a pic of it when you can and post it up here?

That's pretty crappy. Good install kits will give you 0.010 and 0.005 and even smaller. I think yukon's install kits suck too. Unfortunately, I can't remember what the "good" brand is right now

Never had a problem with the Yukon kits. Pretty sure Travis's kits were Yukons as well? That's the only brand Bob at Baystate uses for gears.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

Thanks Josh. I'm just a little nervous since it will be used as a recovery point.

The bead in the bevel came out great, but the one where I overlapped everything (fairly wide arc) looked like it cut into the 3/4" a bit. I'd rather post it up here and be reassured by people with more experience than me (Bill, Ross, etc.).
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

Colin, Ned is the only one I know who had a hard time with Yukon. I THINK he bought Yukon kits but I could be totally wrong. He had to go to a local axle shop and get more shims, specifically thinner ones.

Also, What weld is this that you speak of? I think you mean 'fairly wide bead' too... Any weld that has more than one pass should look staggered in the cross section like this (but not so extreme)


0490300307008.png


What are you welding together, exactly?
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

Wide arc (swing), wide bead, same thing :dunno:.

I was welding a JCR d-ring tab (.750")to the face of Carmelo's 2x6x.250" wall "bumper", or front crossmember.

I called up Bill and he said to bevel the d-ring tab to a point at a 45* on both sides (which I did) then do one pass inside the bevel (which came out mint) and then basically overlap everything, connecting them all together.

I think the technique worked great, but my execution lead to some undercutting on the .750".
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

Wide arc (swing), wide bead, same thing :dunno:.

I was welding a JCR d-ring tab (.750")to the face of Carmelo's 2x6x.250" wall "bumper", or front crossmember.

I called up Bill and he said to bevel the d-ring tab to a point at a 45* on both sides (which I did) then do one pass inside the bevel (which came out mint) and then basically overlap everything, connecting them all together.

I think the technique worked great, but my execution lead to some undercutting on the .750".
Touche about the terminology.

I think that'll work just fine... I mean, how bad is the undercutting?

Last night I was having a problem not blowing throught the end of the weld when welding 1/4" to 3/16 angle iron with the stick welder. I was able to have full and awesome control with my mig, though. Never mind the fact that it doesn't have enough power to blow through anything thicker than 1/8"...

I just found these:
http://nh.craigslist.org/tls/1904243773.html
http://nh.craigslist.org/tls/1905163123.html
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

if you get one thats a pain in the ass, it's only a pain in the ass the first time. just anti sieze it all.

its good to take it all apart and lube it all up if you wheel too. makes trail repairs go much smoother.
true. speaking of which I think I need to replace one of the knuckles on the MJ anyways, hopefully the one I still need to do the balljoints on. It appears that your recreational XJ aviation resulted in it being so warped that the unit bearing basically fell out when I took the bolts off :roflmao:

reason to buy/build shackle relocation brackets :thumbup:
X2

damn straight. :greensmok
X2, though I'll probably keep AW4s in the big jeeps, I like 2 pedal simplicity (though the only vehicle I've wheeled in the last year has a 5 speed...)

pic is only after 1 coat of paint, but those who hae seen the garage know how much of an improvement it is, its already alot brighter in there
wall_003.jpg
I believe it, just spray bombing the walls white probably would have helped but this will be easier to clean.

Ken left my house a few minutes ago. He has a pretty bad head gasket leak on cyl #6. Every compression cycle results in an abrubt release of pressure. Also, we started making the ramps for his m54a2... We got all the angle iron cut to length (my chop saw is da beezkneez) and one of them has been measured square and has all 24 pieces of angle iron tacked to it... I did a lot of welding. Still have to get the other one square and tack on all the pieces. Not sure if I'll burn them home with the stick or the mig. Mig is so much cleaner, but stick has a better duty cycle...

I'm currently waiting on my order from heleta to arrive before I can make much more progress on the doubler... Thankfully it'll be here tomorrow.
pretty bad doesn't begin to state the problem :(

about 2" of the head gasket decided to blow out of the back of the engine. I've been hearing a rhythmic hissing from the front/top of the trans or back of the engine for about a week, but wasn't sure if it was just me not remembering it always being there or not. It got way worse over the last few days, I finally got curious enough to dig into it last night and stuck my hand behind the engine while it was running. I got a fistful of head gasket, air, and diesel. I guess I got lucky though, it still runs great (though it's a dog on the highway), no coolant in the oil, no oil in the coolant, great oil pressure, etc. So it seems the piece that blew out is "just" the part that is supposed to keep the cylinder from venting to the atmosphere... guess I'm doing a head gasket (and valve cover gaskets, and intake/exhaust gaskets, and thermostat, and cooling system flush, and oil change, and... :doh:) ASAP. It won't be at the car show tomorrow though I may still say screw it and drive it to lobsterfest this weekend. Anyone know of a decent place where I can get the heads decked in Worcester?
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

That sucks Ken.

Do you mean mill the head? I'd assume getting them decked means checked for flat/even surface?

My uncle knows a guy out here that does it, but nothing out that way.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

That sucks Ken.

Do you mean mill the head? I'd assume getting them decked means checked for flat/even surface?

My uncle knows a guy out here that does it, but nothing out that way.
yeah, it's not the surprise I really wanted, but at least I don't think it'll involve any block work. My oil pressure is great and I haven't thrown a rod yet so I think the rods, pistons, and bearings are all fine.

Yes, I meant milled - I'm an idiot when it comes to engine rebuild terms and tech. It may not even need it, but it overheated pretty bad (i.e. manifolds were up to AT LEAST 240-250 from the way the rain was boiling off them when I opened the hood) so I'm expecting them to, and I don't want to go in there again so if they need it they are getting it.

I don't mind a bit of distance, my only real worry is the size of the heads (they are large) and how much I need to disassemble them to get the work done. I'd rather avoid pulling the rockers and stuff off if I can. Looks like I'll probably be buying a good paint pen and clearing off my desk. I have no workspace for this kind of thing so I'll be bringing the parts inside and doing everything on my desk, so I need to mark the parts (at least the pushrods) so they end up in the same spot again.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

Definitely mark everything if you're pulling it apart. I'm not a genious when it comes to this stuff either, just picked up some stuff here and there from watching my father and uncle.

I can give him a call and see if his buddy can do it. What are the dimensions of the head?
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

Definitely mark everything if you're pulling it apart. I'm not a genious when it comes to this stuff either, just picked up some stuff here and there from watching my father and uncle.

I can give him a call and see if his buddy can do it. What are the dimensions of the head?
dimensions:
large by large by very large.

Seriously though I would have to guess about... 8 inches wide, 4-5 inches thick (not including pushrods, that's valve cover gasket to head gasket thickness) and about 4 feet long. Thankfully, it's a split head, so each piece isn't much more than 20-24" long.

It'd be awesome if you could find out :thumbup: and about what it'll cost, though it will get done whatever the price is.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

Ok I can ask him.

I'd be surprised if the head was warped with a cast iron piece that big. I got my old 4.0 up to the red on the temp gauge (250+) and then pulled over and let it cool. Never had a problem with it for another 30k miles after that.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

Ken are you looking to get the head reworked? Like port/polish, new pushrods/lifters/rockers, etc?

Or you just want it checked out and milled if needed?
 
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