Greetings from the high desert!
I was supposed to wheel at Calico this weekend, but the campsite location changed so I decided to stay home and work on the Jeep. I figured I might as well update the FB while I'm at it. Although I'm temporarily SoCal, the parts I installed came from Sierra Chapter territory (thanks, Tim), so that technically qualifies as a SC update for the blog. Here's what I did...
The ACOS kit I bought from Tim have been sitting in the garage for a month, so I took advantage of the cool weather and extra time I had to get them installed on the heep. I have been running an extra OME spacer (yellow) to top of my new isolators for that bit of extra space, along with a 3" bump stop and an additional hockey puck, but I still have a tendency to rub my fenders and knock my flares loose. The ACOS are guaranteed to fix that.
I started off by using my new HiLift (gave my old one to the kid) and floor jack to lift the front of the Jeep. I also pried off the OE neoprene bump and removed the coil.
Here's a good look at the OME isolator. A while back, I replaced my stock isolator after noting my coils were misaligned with the bump post. When worn, the coils will eat into the isolators and cause them to sit at ungainly angles. These isolators will likely to to the kid (100K XJ) in an effort to give him an extra 1/2" of clearance up front.
The ACOS directions say to locate the inner washer and mark the bump tube for cutting. I used blue tape to transfer the exact location of the washer. You don't want to cut into the washer.
This is as high as you want to cut. This upgrade gives you a couple of free souvenirs, also.
A grinder is useful to make the cut as smooth as a baby's butt. The backside of the cut is hard to get to so I used pliers to work the cut piece free from the bump tube.
I figured it was time for a (bad) beer after the first 20 minutes of hard labor. Make sure you have a few cold ones on hand prior to starting this project.
The ACOS kit comes with a 10 x 1.5 mm bolt, so you'll need to tap the washer. This is where the ACOS bump stop bolts into to hold the unit in place.
A little paint will prevent corrosion and make the tube purty.
Now the fun part begins. The ACOS threaded tube fits directly onto the OE bump tube. It starts looking good at this point.
Now you can screw the ACOS bump into the threaded hole with the supplied bolt.
You'll want to set the lower collar as high as you can prior to re-installing the coil. I run a 5.5" coil, so even with the coil compressed, sway bar end link disco'd, and axle dropped completely, the passenger side can be a pain to install. The driver's side is much easier, as clearance is not obstructed by steering dampner, upper control arm, and tie rod/drag link connectors.
Final adjustments to the ACOS system is made with load taken OFF the coils. Since the system comes with about an inch and a half of built-in lift, I decided to raise the collar as high as I could. With both isolators removed, I ended up with 3/4" of additional lift and I am completely happy with the results.
I'm heading back out today to level the ACOS system to level out the driver's and passenger sides. Initial measurements showed the driver's side to be 1/4" lower, but that might be due to the brand new tire on the passenger side. The ACOS makes that adjustment very simple. Oh, I might even install my fender flares since i now know I will be less likely to knock them off when on the trail.