Team NAXJA/Petty Cash Racing stock class KOH XJ build

Because it's quicker for the OEM to install at the factory and cut down on assembly time? Obviously if it were a function issue the best clamp would be a band clamp, as seen in after market high boost turbo applications.

And a union goon coming back from his 40 oz liquid lunch can't forget how to tension them properly.
 
Both work fine when used properly. /end hiss fit

Lets talk about suspension, horsepower, going fast, and other cool shit. Not silly hose clamps.
 
Both work fine when used properly. /end hiss fit

Lets talk about suspension, horsepower, going fast, and other cool shit. Not silly hose clamps.

lol.....this car does not go fast nor does it have tons of horsepower :laugh2:
 
The ford 6.blow uses them on the charge pipes from the factory.

But for the love of god, don't use normal hose clamps on silicone, they make proper hose clamps for the application that don't cut into the hose when you tighten them down.

416tvey3A1L._SX342_.jpg




You do know that a lot of real race cars (ones that can exceed 80mph) use spring clamps on the cooling systems. They keep constant tension on the hose, they can't loosen up, you can't over-tighten them. plus it's much faster to grab your snap-on hose clamp pliers, slide the clamp out of the way and pull the hose off instead of looking for a screw driver or a nut driver to unscrew a hose clamp.



For example, here is a viper comp coupe engine bay
https://preview.netcarshow.com/Dodge-Viper_Competition_Coupe-2003-1600-19.jpg

they also allow the hose to expand properly when heated up.

hose clamps are great at destroying coolant hoses.
 
You do know that a lot of real race cars (ones that can exceed 80mph) use spring clamps on the cooling systems. They keep constant tension on the hose, they can't loosen up, you can't over-tighten them. plus it's much faster to grab your snap-on hose clamp pliers, slide the clamp out of the way and pull the hose off instead of looking for a screw driver or a nut driver to unscrew a hose clamp.

For example, here is a viper comp coupe engine bay
https://preview.netcarshow.com/Dodge-Viper_Competition_Coupe-2003-1600-19.jpg

There's a world of difference between a race car that gets to pull into the pits or a garage full of tools for servicing and a desert racer that has to carry all of their tools with them into the middle of nowhere. I fully understand the reason for spring style clamps, and also agree they do not belong on this car. It's a heavy enough bitch without adding special tools to the tool bag for very specific jobs. A screwdriver can be used all over the car, it earns its place in the bag. A fancy set of snap on hose clamp pliers don't have any other use and are needless weight and space.
 
There's a world of difference between a race car that gets to pull into the pits or a garage full of tools for servicing and a desert racer that has to carry all of their tools with them into the middle of nowhere. I fully understand the reason for spring style clamps, and also agree they do not belong on this car. It's a heavy enough bitch without adding special tools to the tool bag for very specific jobs. A screwdriver can be used all over the car, it earns its place in the bag. A fancy set of snap on hose clamp pliers don't have any other use and are needless weight and space.

What about a pair of pliers or simple channel locks, but either way I wasn't suggesting that you guys replace the worm clamps with spring clamps, I was just disputing Cal's claim that they have no place on a race car.
 
I see none of you understand why the spring clamp exists.
Do you ever give up? Everything I read between you and cal is always a bash fest. Cal so far hasn't been wrong.

Sent from my 0PJA2 using Tapatalk
 
What about a pair of pliers or simple channel locks, but either way I wasn't suggesting that you guys replace the worm clamps with spring clamps, I was just disputing Cal's claim that they have no place on a race car.

Because trying to get those things off with pliers brings the suck. The OEM style with 2 tangs on one side and one on the other is always a lesson in keeping fingers away from whichever tang is gonna pop loose and pop you. The ones with a single tang on each side tend to have the ends so far apart you need really big pliers, and they still tend to slip off a lot. To do it without frustration really requires the proper tool.

CockClimber is a tool, but also not the proper tool :looser:
 
Do you ever give up? Everything I read between you and cal is always a bash fest. Cal so far hasn't been wrong.



Oh Cal's been wrong many times.....he just hides it better ;)
 
Do you ever give up? Everything I read between you and cal is always a bash fest. Cal so far hasn't been wrong.

You wouldn't know it, but Rockclimber and I actually get along really well. He just swings for great technical arguments and misses.. like the guy who tries to get out of a speeding ticket by claiming the officer miscapitolized his name.
 
You wouldn't know it, but Rockclimber and I actually get along really well. He just swings for great technical arguments and misses.. like the guy who tries to get out of a speeding ticket by claiming the officer miscapitolized his name.
Awesome sauce.

Sent from my 0PJA2 using Tapatalk
 
Changing up the front springs a bit, and new rear shafts, as one has a bent flange (and has for a long time, but its compressing the caliper and giving us squishy brakes).
 
Your old Dana 44 you ran in there before the 60 has a bent flange too and has to be replaced.....Russ just found out just yesterday that it was bent as he drove home......you should probably get him a shaft too. :wave1:

Full float would be way better in the desert......not infallible but will hold up immensely better than semi float in the go-fast.
 
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