Team NAXJA/Petty Cash Racing stock class KOH XJ build

[cal]

sounds like time for the next mod then

http://www.stinkyfab.com/heavy-duty...ansmission-mount-jeep-xj-cherokee-offset.html

 

[gradon]

Me too

 

[ss427ci]

Actually the stock mount we replaced was only a couple months old and in very good shape. I cant claim that we mounted any kind of vibration monitoring equipment to the vehicle, but generally savvy owners can feel changes in their vehicle and he said he couldn't tell any difference.

As for the angle, this mount does have the ability to "hinge" but simply using that pivot point to account for the angle would shift things ever so slightly backwards. Probably not enough to matter, but I designed that angle into the tabs of the lower half so that everything is properly aligned without any "hinging"

Ahh ok, well an even better design than I had thought.

Strength and durability are my primary considerations when purchasing parts. A lower NVH, than my daystar poly mount would just be a bonus.

Now I just need to find a reason to swap out a perfectly good mount. Hmm, maybe I swap out my poly bushings, for rubber, in my brown dogs and get this trans mount to eliminate my "massage" at stop lights. The ladies like poly mounts though...for some reason.

 

[cal]

i need to know the ladies you know.

 

[StinkyFab]

This forum needs a "like" button.....for many posts in this thread.



"Blaine said..." :laugh2:

 

[NorCalChris]

Love the new mount. Looks like it'll be on my build list. Goodjob stinky.

 

[rockclimber]

What different trans mounts have you tried? What different motor mounts have you tried?
What do you base this statement on?

went from XJ OEM motor mounts to Brown Dog rubber mounts and then to poly.

went from XJ OEM trans mount to poly back to rubber.

by far the most vibration change was from OEM to brown dog "rubber" mounts. there was a slight change in vibration moving from rubber to poly, but not as big a jump.

the trans mounts didn't really seem to change it at all, although I have not tried OEM XJ mounts with a poly trans mount. the only reason I switched back to a rubber mount was because it is slightly taller than the poly mount I had on there, giving my T-case a tiny bit more clearance on the skid.

I have also swapped mounts around on a number of rigs. with similar results.

 

[Weasel]

I've been running basically the same thing under mine for 6+ years. Works just fine, crossmember has been beat to crap but the mount has held up. Your's look certainly more polished/finished then mine though.

 

[cal]

I was away from the jeep longer than I should have been. My cat got really sick, and he comes first. Looks like we're treating him for cancer now. :/


Pulled the front end this weekend to send it off for new gears.

Started by pulling the outers, and compressing the suspension all the way up to measure for new bumpstops, ours are getting pretty trashed.

Drop the limit straps and shocks

Drop the axle and start fighting that damned trackbar bolt out. When we first put everything together, we overlooked reeming the trackbar hole out before shoving a 9" long bolt into it. The bolt has been seized in there ever since.

Pounded it the first inch or so with a 9 pound sledge, and then put my 25" snap-on ratchet on it and VERY SLOWLY fought it out.

 

[cal]

We'll see if I get out to the garage today or not, but I have another care package from Stinkyfab.

This will drop the trans mount up to 7/8".

The build quality of the frame mounts is nice.

The motor mounts are good

All new grade 8 hardware

Good instructions too.

 

[travisk]

Cal, do you think that C-gusset track bar mount would work on a Dana 30 with the factory spring location (with OTK WJ knuckles)?

 

[cal]

No. You'd have to go too far forward, and the trackbar would hit the draglink when you turn left.

 

[cal]

Here we go, found a decent photo.

You can see here there is no room for the trackbar to be any more forward, or it hits the draglink arm on the knuckle. (its actually tighter than pictured, we added a safety washer after this mockup photo)

With the coil in the stock location, you couldnt have the trackbar far enough back to make it all fit.

 

[tone]

Sorry to hear about your pussy. Get out to the garage, cause we want more pics!

 

[sidewaysstarion]

Good instructions too.

I wonder if the knock sensor being attached to the motor mount will effect its ability to detect knock.

 

[dukie564]

I wonder if the knock sensor being attached to the motor mount will effect its ability to detect knock.

It's attached to the block brackets, which are rigidly attached to the engine block. Knock sensors are vibration based so function should be the same.

Also the knock sensor doesn't really do anything unless something goes wrong, so it shouldn't matter. Later models did away with the sensor entirely. If you aren't running boost or anything like that pre-detonation is realistically a non-issue

 

[cal]

 

[GSequoia]

I wonder if the knock sensor being attached to the motor mount will effect its ability to detect knock.

I've never heard of any issues with the knock sensor relocation yet and people have been doing it pretty much as long as extended engine mount brackets have existed on 4.0s.

 

[XJ_ranger]

I wonder if the knock sensor being attached to the motor mount will effect its ability to detect knock.

Nice edit... :doh:

 

[sidewaysstarion]

I've never heard of any issues with the knock sensor relocation yet and people have been doing it pretty much as long as extended engine mount brackets have existed on 4.0s.

Brown Dog uses something similar to thread adapter to mount it to the block, so it directly attached to the block via that thread adapter. Where as the SFR mount it to a nut welded to a plate in the middle of three bolts.

A knock sensor is just a microphone that is tuned to a specific frequency and the ECU listens for that specific frequency to detect knock and pull timing. That's why all OEMs mount the knock sensors directly to either the head or the block.