blondejoncherokee
NAXJA Member
- Location
- sacramento
so that explains why you needed a different rotor. WTF . so is that pretty much it then?
...sorry...another build thread...
- Thread starter blondejoncherokee
- Start date
Mike1331
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Folsom, CA
yep, runs, drives, stops, charges, and cools great, getting it back tomorrow. I'll be plugging away at the little things all week. Hoping to take the entire week of the 4th off. First fordyce then con in the same week.
blondejoncherokee
NAXJA Member
- Location
- sacramento
pulled the TNT long arm and belly pan this morning and sold it. and built a new cross member. the Lowers will mount to mounts off the frame rail now, same for the upper.
heres the bottom side.
its made from 2x4 .188 wall, drilled some 7/8 access holes for the bolts and some fat plate. right now it uses the 3 lower weld nuts, and it will be having a thru frame mount will some angle on both sides similiar to the TNT setup.
i will also be adding some bolt on tcase and tranny skids tomorrow morning.
drilling out all of the Ruffstuff mounts to 3/4" sucks terribly. even in my drill press.
heres the bottom side.
its made from 2x4 .188 wall, drilled some 7/8 access holes for the bolts and some fat plate. right now it uses the 3 lower weld nuts, and it will be having a thru frame mount will some angle on both sides similiar to the TNT setup.
i will also be adding some bolt on tcase and tranny skids tomorrow morning.
drilling out all of the Ruffstuff mounts to 3/4" sucks terribly. even in my drill press.
Last edited:
XJensen
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Sacramento
Cool deal. Stop by this week to burn in everything with my 220.
blondejoncherokee
NAXJA Member
- Location
- sacramento
Ya thats what I am thinking. the 110 on full heat seems to penetrate pretty well, anything less than full heat and I dont know.... but id feel better with the 220 anyway.
blondejoncherokee
NAXJA Member
- Location
- sacramento
things got off to a slow start, the cross member took practically two days, including the t case skid and starting the tranny skid.
also welded alot more of the stiffeners
drilled the RS mounts all to 3/4" to prep them for the 1.25 hiems
welded some all thread as mounting studs for the tcase skid, had the all thread and tube and 1/4"x2" flat steel lying around so that turned into a tcase skid.
cut one of the lca mounts off, need to get the other one off. took about an hour with an angle grinder and then finished it off with a flapper wheel.
this guy will be gone soon:
also welded alot more of the stiffeners
drilled the RS mounts all to 3/4" to prep them for the 1.25 hiems
welded some all thread as mounting studs for the tcase skid, had the all thread and tube and 1/4"x2" flat steel lying around so that turned into a tcase skid.
cut one of the lca mounts off, need to get the other one off. took about an hour with an angle grinder and then finished it off with a flapper wheel.
this guy will be gone soon:
blondejoncherokee
NAXJA Member
- Location
- sacramento
other LCA mount is gone. this one was only about 30 minutes, got a little more efficient this time from the other one being an hour.
REVROK
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Spring Creek, NV
Coming along nicely sir!
blondejoncherokee
NAXJA Member
- Location
- sacramento
I plan on getting alot done this week
blondejoncherokee
NAXJA Member
- Location
- sacramento
inner frame plate. uses 6 7/16 ths bolts, 3" flat steel .250 wall. 2 feet long or something. this is the basis for the bolt on upper link mount.
tacked on for now:
coil bukcets and axle side LCA mounts measured out a ton a little more than tacked on:
slapped some stock coils on it for now just to see where it centers. so far the lca mounts and coil buckets seem good.
been playing with trackbar and uca mount locations.
outside frame for inner mount:
tacked on for now:
coil bukcets and axle side LCA mounts measured out a ton a little more than tacked on:
slapped some stock coils on it for now just to see where it centers. so far the lca mounts and coil buckets seem good.
been playing with trackbar and uca mount locations.
outside frame for inner mount:
blondejoncherokee
NAXJA Member
- Location
- sacramento
set coil buckets so that its around 8-9* postive caster.
Mike1331
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Folsom, CA
what did you do to your garage floor? looks nice
blondejoncherokee
NAXJA Member
- Location
- sacramento
rustoleum garage floor epoxy. degreased it. then a month later degreased it again, then pressure washed it. let it dry. then apply the epoxy. it was nice until I started this project. Ill clean it up when its done.
Mike1331
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Folsom, CA
nice, can't wait to see this beast wheel with that new axle and arms.
blondejoncherokee
NAXJA Member
- Location
- sacramento
Yah I cant wait man. I just need to get er done
CAJJ93XJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Roseville, CA
nice progress. for a guy who always told me not to get a 44 front, after seeing that thing in person you're really making me want a 44/9. not sure if you mentioned, but are any driveshaft modifications needed?
blondejoncherokee
NAXJA Member
- Location
- sacramento
I dont see any reason for DS mods yet, but Ya i might need to lengthen the front if I push it too far forward. Im pretty sure the 44 pinion is like an 1" longer than the 30 perhaps? so If I push it forward around 2-3" i should be fine for a while, if I need to I can lengthen the DS.
I still say dont buy a 44. I got this one with chromos, gears, and arb and high steer for a good price and I was able to re coupe alot of that money from my 30 parts. and I am not narrowing it either.
If you find a built 44 with everything you need go for it, if you're starting from scratch youre better off with a 60.
the one good thing is, when I finally go to a 60 I will already have the links and steering parts figured out, which is the hardest part of the job for me, building the belly pan, and all that other crap. . Now it would be really easy to practically drop in a narrowed 60 since it would only be axle side mounts and maybe play with the steering a bit.
and this 44 will end up covering alot of the 60 costs when the time comes late in FY14
I still say dont buy a 44. I got this one with chromos, gears, and arb and high steer for a good price and I was able to re coupe alot of that money from my 30 parts. and I am not narrowing it either.
If you find a built 44 with everything you need go for it, if you're starting from scratch youre better off with a 60.
the one good thing is, when I finally go to a 60 I will already have the links and steering parts figured out, which is the hardest part of the job for me, building the belly pan, and all that other crap. . Now it would be really easy to practically drop in a narrowed 60 since it would only be axle side mounts and maybe play with the steering a bit.
and this 44 will end up covering alot of the 60 costs when the time comes late in FY14
CAJJ93XJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Roseville, CA
so the yokes/ujoints are the same size?
I dont plan on doing anything but railing the piss out of my 30/8.8. but if d44 opportunity arises like it did for you it'll be hard to pass up!
blondejoncherokee
NAXJA Member
- Location
- sacramento
this one already has a 1310 yoke.
