simple 4 link question

jefftrucker12

NAXJA Forum User
Location
arizona
i started a triangulated 4 link front about 6 months ago with my friends help. he is a 4 wheel fabricating genius and i thought we would get my jeep built in no time. after i got my front dana 30 out and sold it he moved, so im now left with a jeep with no front axle but i have all the parts to build a front 4 link. my question is do u have to use strait arms in a 4 link or can u make 2 bends in the arms so that the heims are strait aligned. the problem i have is that i forget about the heim angles and made all of the arm brakets stait forward and not angled. its kind of hard to explain and i dont know how to post pics
 
jefftrucker12 said:
i started a triangulated 4 link front about 6 months ago with my friends help. he is a 4 wheel fabricating genius and i thought we would get my jeep built in no time. after i got my front dana 30 out and sold it he moved, so im now left with a jeep with no front axle but i have all the parts to build a front 4 link. my question is do u have to use strait arms in a 4 link or can u make 2 bends in the arms so that the heims are strait aligned. the problem i have is that i forget about the heim angles and made all of the arm brakets stait forward and not angled. its kind of hard to explain and i dont know how to post pics

You can have as many bends as you want. It doesn't change anything as far as the geometry goes.
Billy
 
If you have a bent link with heims on both ends, the link will flop around. You'll at least want a bushing on one end if you go that route.

What are you doing for steering?
 
im just running the regular gear box, is there anything special when running this set up. i just have to make the drag link end fit into the smaller xj pitman arm hole.
 
jefftrucker12 said:
im just running the regular gear box, is there anything special when running this set up. i just have to make the drag link end fit into the smaller xj pitman arm hole.

Yeah, usually a triangulated 4 link would not have a track bar, so it would probably be better to run full hydro. Otherwise, your putting a lot more force on those links.
Billy
 
im just going to redo the mounts so i dont have to buy rubber bushings and so the arms dont have to have any bends. full hydro steering is expensive, can i get away with hydro assist. im 18 still in high school and dont have alot of disposible income but i will do it the right way even if it means saving.
 
No, not really. With a mechanical steering linkage you're still going to need a trackbar or else the steering will be wicked bad.

How exactly are you planning on fitting a true 4-link up front? Got pics?
 
front4llink.jpg
 
Last edited:
i didnt weld it my friend who is a certified welder and avid 4x4er said he has made 5 or 6 of these set up and none have broke or cracked. i dont plan to add gussets but could without a problem. i doubt there will be any strengh issues with the plate, its 1/2 and welded very very good. oyea the weld in the pic isnt for strength, the front weld,which is not shown was tripple passed and it is where all of the pressure is at. ill get a pic of it tonight
 
Well, yes and no.

With the amount of triangulation shown in the drawing, you'll be fine without one as far as locating the axle, it's just that you'll want to do full hydro steering or else it'll be one hell of a handful going down the road/trail.

If you add a track bar to the setup as shown, you'll have wicked bind as the trackbar will try and force an arc through travel that the 4-link won't allow. At that point you'd probably want to go with a 3-link and panhard setup if you're keeping the mechanical steering link.

Here's my setup, which is the 3-link and panhard as described above:

DSC01603.JPG


Works great so far, with a regular steering setup and hydro assist.
 
Back
Top