Several Stupid Questions

[Jeepedo129]

Alright, So tis the season to spend your tax return however, Im stuck with a little bit of a dilemma. I've been scouring the interwebs to find as much info and several different avenues to spend some money to upgrade the Jeep.

My main Dilemma is the ARB locker. From what I've been able to find, There isn't an ARB for the dana 30 for 3:55 gears, all Ive found is 3:54 and down, or 3:73 and up. Preferably I would like 3:55 and up, but I'm sure something like that doesn't exist due to carrier size. Just thought I would ask. I would upgrade to 4:56s but Im not really in the position to do that at the moment because the 33s I have in my possession aren't mine:bawl:......yet. If this cant be done then I'll move on to the next.

Next is I would ultimately Like to put a D44 in the rear, probably from an MJ that is sitting in the PNP yard. From what I've read, 44s have more aftermarket support and a little cheaper to maintain. BUT I have ZERO experience with 44s so I don't know if there is any truth to that. I already have a Chrysler 8.25 that is a 29 spline and was wondering if it is worth the trouble of finding a 44 swapping it in with perches and shock mounts just to have one more spline thats only 11% stronger OR just keep the 8.25. The biggest tire I want to run is a 33 and I'll want to lock it up with an ARB.

Next If neither of those work out, I'll be going with a long arm kit. I like the TNT kit, mostly for the belly pan, but there is a guy in Lehi Ut that has his own business and he makes a decent radius arm set up for around 650. Either that or the Serious Offroad kit. And ill do a steering upgrade in the front. Anyway Im rambling and I'll stop haha.eace:

BTW Im running about 4.5-5" of lift at the moment with SYE and extended Brake lines and frame stiffeners.

 

[VAhasnoWAVES]

3.55 and 3.54 are essentially the same thing, and thats what the company is implying. one carrier is meant for 3.55 and lower (numerically) gears. the other is 3.73 and up (numerically). there are no gear sets offered in between. if you plan to regear one day, do it when the ARB is installed... if you get one meant for 3.55s now (and its not a bolt in affair) it will not work with deeper gears later.

if you have a 29 spline 8.25 now, i wouldnt bother with the 44. and if you think you need the 44, i would look into the ford 8.8. larger ring gear, stronger shafts, and available with disk brakes for the same amount of work to fit an MJ D44. FWIW, my 8.25 with stock shafts has held up to 35s in the rocks just fine.

 

[XJEEPER]

Bored of the game too?

I wouldn't purchase an ARB that couldn't support the gear ratio that you want to ultimately end up with. What size tires do you run when you aren't running loaner 33s? Knowing where you live, 4:88 gears are a better choice, if 33s are your goal.

Swapping in a D44 would eliminate C-clip axles, but you could truss the 8.25 and throw in some alloy shafts and an ARB and have plenty of beef to support 33s.

 

[Jeepedo129]

3.55 and 3.54 are essentially the same thing, and thats what the company is implying. one carrier is meant for 3.55 and lower (numerically) gears. the other is 3.73 and up (numerically). there are no gear sets offered in between.

Ok so my suspicions were correct. Looks like the ARB will have to wait until I have the tires for the gears. That means I can save up for the super 30 kit and do it all at once.

On a side note I read some thing about thicker gears, and someone on Pirate 4x4 said the thinker gears will support the ARB for the higher gears and the 3:55s, Im assuming he's full of it but worth mentioning. I thought it had to do with bolt pattern from the Ring to the locker.:dunno:

I would look into the ford 8.8. larger ring gear, stronger shafts, and available with disk brakes for the same amount of work to fit an MJ D44. FWIW, my 8.25 with stock shafts has held up to 35s in the rocks just fine.

Swapping in a D44 would eliminate C-clip axles, but you could truss the 8.25 and throw in some alloy shafts and an ARB and have plenty of beef to support 33s.

That was my thinking, I know the Libby 8.25 with disks is a direct bolt in so thats not a huge deal. I personally like C-clip axles do to the fact I had a buddy loose his axle and tire do to improper bearing press. (his fault I'm sure but something about it still creeps me out ) I've kinda decided to go with a low COG rig so probably staying at around 4.5-5" lift w/ 33s and cut out fenders. Thats ultimately where I want to be. Will the 4:88s still be a comfortable ride on the freeway and such?

Looks like Ill have to wait on the gears until I have the tires to support them. I guess ill move on to the steering upgrade and long arm.

 

[Johnnie Walker]

3.54/3.55 is negligible. So that arb carrier would work for stock gears. I believe there are a couple companies that make "thick" gear sets, not sure what ratios/axle specifically.
If you already have a 8.25. It is not necessary to go out and buy a D44 to replace it. Plenty strong for 33 and even 35's.
As much as I like the TNT setup, something with a removable crossmember would be best. Other than TNT, or the DBO mid-arm kit. for that kind of money a 3/4link (non radius arm) setup would be better.

 

[Jeepedo129]

3.54/3.55 is negligible. So that arb carrier would work for stock gears. I believe there are a couple companies that make "thick" gear sets, not sure what ratios/axle specifically.
If you already have a 8.25. It is not necessary to go out and buy a D44 to replace it. Plenty strong for 33 and even 35's.
As much as I like the TNT setup, something with a removable crossmember would be best. Other than TNT, or the DBO mid-arm kit. for that kind of money a 3/4link (non radius arm) setup would be better.

That was my main draw back other than price of the TNT kit. A buddy of mine has the rough country kit with a similar design and has hated having to drop the cross member for trans work, plus the jeep isn't movable with the crossmember out.

Im thinking i want to go with a Low COG rig, so I've been looking at both radius and 4 link. I like the radius, and with a Low COG rig the unloading factor on steep inclines might be reduced. But I've heard 4 links are a little stronger and handle better off road, the price is the main draw back on the 4 link kits as well.

decisions decisions. :bawl:

 

[RynoMJ]

That was my main draw back other than price of the TNT kit. A buddy of mine has the rough country kit with a similar design and has hated having to drop the cross member for trans work, plus the jeep isn't movable with the crossmember out.

Im thinking i want to go with a Low COG rig, so I've been looking at both radius and 4 link. I like the radius, and with a Low COG rig the unloading factor on steep inclines might be reduced. But I've heard 4 links are a little stronger and handle better off road, the price is the main draw back on the 4 link kits as well.

decisions decisions. :bawl:

Definitely stick with the 8.25 plenty strong for your desired tire size. Clayton also makes a long arm cross member that's easy to remove for tranny work. Just drop the middle section. If that's the route you're looking to go.

 

[whitexj98]

I wouldn't call 4.5" on 33s LOCG...more like average...ha.

As for the TNT cross member isn’t removable...I think this is a moot point... How often do you do "trans work"? In the 8 years I have had my XJ, I have never had to drop the trans....I have had the TNT kit for the last 2 years, it is pure beef and has some of the best clearance of any radius arms kits as well as having excellent protection..

For gears I have 4:56s on 35s, I think it’s decent, IMO 4:88s on 33s would be to deep for highway driving. When I had 33s on 4:56s on 4.5” I had to loose a lot of caster to get the driveshaft vibs down to be able to do 70 MPH.

For your rear axle the 8.25 is fine..… find ZJ or liberty disk brakes. I got a whole ZJ setup off craigslist for 75$.

 

[Jeepedo129]

As for the TNT cross member isn’t removable...I think this is a moot point... How often do you do "trans work"? In the 8 years I have had my XJ, I have never had to drop the trans.

You're probably right, My buddy had his valve body go out, then the place he had do it did a crappy job and he had to pull it again, then on reinstall he ruined the output shaft seal on the Torque converter, so he's had to pull it 4 times. on my '97 the tranny went out at 160k but this new one i haven't had to do anything with.

But you know now that you said that......... you may have tranny work coming your way......... knock on wood haha

Knowing where you live, 4:88 gears are a better choice, if 33s are your goal.

For gears I have 4:56s on 35s, I think it’s decent, IMO 4:88s on 33s would be to deep for highway driving. When I had 33s on 4:56s on 4.5” I had to loose a lot of caster to get the driveshaft vibs down to be able to do 70 MPH.

I do a lot of Hwy driving, around 30-40 miles a day, plus there is a possibility of the wife and I moving cross country. Jeff, I know you have 4:56s, do you wish you would have gone 4:88s?

 

[XJEEPER]

Brandon,

Look at the Location of folks recommending 4:56's with 33's.......elevation should be a factor in your decision. 4000ft to 9000ft is much different than sea level to 2000 ft.

My current XJ has 4:88's and they are perfect. Zero regrets. I commuted 65 miles a day in my Jeep for 3 years and averaged 17 mpg on the freeway. 75mph = 2800 RPM.

When I ran the same 33" tall tire/wheel/lift combo with 4:56 gears in my 89 XJ, it was under-geared on the road and averaged 14 mpg. The tranny was always hunting between 4th and 3rd while cruising at freeway speeds, even on the slightest of elevation changes such as overpasses. I can pull hills in OD with 4:88's, where my rig would ALWAYS jump into 3rd with 4:56's. Dr Moab went with 4:56's, he's regretting not going with 4:88's.

Driveshaft vibes can be magnified by lower gearing, but I would not under-gear my rig, thinking it will keep it vibe-free.

Finding the balance of minimum vibration and acceptable caster will ALWAYS be an issue, once your rig is lifted beyond 4". Rotating knuckles or installing select-able hubs are the real solutions, unless you want to disconnect your front drive shaft at the pinion yoke and strap it up, when you aren't wheeling.

This horse has been clubbed to powder.......

 

[Jeepedo129]

Ok for some, reason I thought you were for 4:56. That makes much more sense now.