Selectable Lockers from a Durability Standpoint

xjnation said:
yep but 85-90 will not have enough force to the locker to work in all situations. and slippage can happen. The engineer I talked to said never under 95 for best long term results


Have you ever actually experimented?

I have a very accurate pressure valve on my compressor. I can engage the side gear with 65 PSI every time. Even 55 will engage it, though it is not as solid. 90 is PLENTY!
 
Paul S said:
I ran ARB's for over 10 years with an ARB compressor & solenoids, never had a problem.
Only problems I had were a broken cross shaft in my old 44 (rear axle)
Twice I found loose/broken cap bolts in my D30
& 2 or 3 times the D30 would blow diff fluid out the solenoid.
If I was still running selectable lockers, it would be ARB all the way.

The loose cap bolt problem is not unique to ARB, Detroit's have the same issue.

Paul

As do OX's. Results of Jes's Dana 44 front OX after all the bolts backed out:

standard
 
CRASH said:
Have you ever actually experimented?

I have a very accurate pressure valve on my compressor. I can engage the side gear with 65 PSI every time. Even 55 will engage it, though it is not as solid. 90 is PLENTY!

yes I did on angle with side loads on the axles it would not fully engage at 85 psi, have you experimented with anything other than in your driveway?
 
Ouch. I knew it wasn't unique to ARB, but I thought it was unique to the 30.
I thought it was caused by housing flex, which I'm sure Jes' 44 does not???

Paul


CRASH said:
As do OX's. Results of Jes's Dana 44 front OX after all the bolts backed out:

standard
 
xjnation said:
yes I did on angle with side loads on the axles it would not fully engage at 85 psi, have you experimented with anything other than in your driveway?


I try never to leave my driveway, lest I scratch the paint on the Jeep.

Sometimes I take the rig to the store for milk, however.
 
Paul S said:
Ouch. I knew it wasn't unique to ARB, but I thought it was unique to the 30.
I thought it was caused by housing flex, which I'm sure Jes' 44 does not???

Paul

No flex in the housing, and the bearing pre-load was plenty tight. I suspect worn tooling, and thus poorly threaded holes in the case. We properly tapped them and used the usual amount of Loctite upon re-installation, along with a tack weld.
 
CRASH said:
I try never to leave my driveway, lest I scratch the paint on the Jeep.

Sometimes I take the rig to the store for milk, however.

LOL ya know it should not ever make a difference how it operates the loads shold not change but they do seem too.

HMMMMM another grocery getter....at least yours in on the road...my MJ still sits.....but getting closer....and only detroits in it wanted to see what it was like without the selectables this time.
 
Here is some research someone put together:

http://www.stu-offroad.com/misc/locker-1.htm

It's kinda long but there is a section with quotes from web forums and emails with various arb failures.

Intersting that the guy still went with arb's.

My own experience:
My 30/44 gen1 arb's have worked well for about 3 years now with the exception of needing to replace the o-rings in the rear. Unfortunately they started failing intermittently in the middle of the rubicon.

After reading this, I'm going to go home and check the bolts on the front.
 
Andy - Why do you prefer not to use solenoids? For one less point of failure or do you have a real reason :D?

Should this be in Advanced Fab? :firedevil
 
The pneumatic switches make it very reliable, and I can hear the locker engage and disengage. No wires, fuses, solenoids or electric switches to fail.

Plus, I have the vent on the switch rigged to lines that blow my dash off when I release the line pressure!

CRASH
(kidding on that last part)
 
CRASH said:
The pneumatic switches make it very reliable, and I can hear the locker engage and disengage. No wires, fuses, solenoids or electric switches to fail.

Plus, I have the vent on the switch rigged to lines that blow my dash off when I release the line pressure!

CRASH
(kidding on that last part)
What switch are you using?
 
CRASH said:
This one, or one very similar. Mine looks the same, but got it cheaper at a generic source, which I can't remember the name of.

http://www.gulfcoastrovers.com/all/switch/

Looks good Andy. I was thinking about using 1 of those switches when I had a arb in my dana 30. Now I'm going with detroits f/r in my hp44/9". How's your 8.8 holding up, still thinking about upgrading to Ford's older/stronger brother?
Troy
 
Big Red said:
Looks good Andy. I was thinking about using 1 of those switches when I had a arb in my dana 30. Now I'm going with detroits f/r in my hp44/9". How's your 8.8 holding up, still thinking about upgrading to Ford's older/stronger brother?
Troy

oh - you have a 44/9" how do they hold up?

are they full width?

what t-case are you running with thoes?

:D
 
i'm also using a all pneumatic setup for my arbs. i wish i would have seen those switches before, because i bought mine from powertank. i have pics. just click on ole' fireball in my sig.
 
XJ_ranger said:
oh - you have a 44/9" how do they hold up?

are they full width?

:D

Just like you bud. :laugh3:
 
Big Red said:
Looks good Andy. I was thinking about using 1 of those switches when I had a arb in my dana 30. Now I'm going with detroits f/r in my hp44/9". How's your 8.8 holding up, still thinking about upgrading to Ford's older/stronger brother?
Troy

Do you really need Detroits for the driveway?
 
here is the incab sinch control with 2 pneumatic ARB switches......from the 12voltguy. whole panel with safety covers and all switches etc was 84.00 shipped

picture.JPG
 
I haven't heard from any OX people.
I'm considering OX for the front 44.
Jes? anyone?
 
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