rotating inner "C"

[sdryde]

is it hard to do this, how do you go about this operation, I once saw somethig on this and they essentially grind the welds out, heat the "c" and rotate, then weld back into place. is this right ?

 

[Mr.OverKill]

is it hard to do this, how do you go about this operation, I once saw somethig on this and they essentially grind the welds out, heat the "c" and rotate, then weld back into place. is this right ?

pritty much.

 

[Dan Fredrickson]

The real key is trying to make them match.....exactly

 

[sdryde]

i figured that would be the hardest part

 

[GSequoia]

And also those welds aren't exactly easy to grind out...

It's a lot of work. More than I'd generally care to do in fact unless I were changing C's or had awsome C's already.

 

[sdryde]

the deal is I built a linked front end that produces 23 inches of travel and at full droop the pinion angle is out of control, so to be able to regain 4wd I need to change that angle so I can put in a drive shaft.... any ideas??

 

[GSequoia]

Well first of all you'll have to rotate the differential, not C's.

Second why not just cut off the UCA / LCA brackets and re-attach a few degrees in the proper direction? You'll have to go with a comprimise angle...

 

[BrettM]

he'll have to rotate the differential and the Cs if he wants to change his pinion angle but leave his caster angle alone.

I did mine, it took 2 hours (besides pulling the axle) and wasn't hard.

 

[GSequoia]

I was just assuming if he was talking about his 23" of downtravel his rig was to the point that castor really doesn't matter anymore

 

[HTeK]

The real key is trying to make them match.....exactly

Bingo - and dont rely on a cheap angle finder to set this. Ask me how i know.

I had really good luck using a combination between a thin cutoff wheel and a grinding wheel. A sturdy BFH will also come in handy. Like brett, it only took me about 2 hours to get mine off.

-jm

 

[IntrepidXJ]

http://chicago4x4.net/modules.php?name=Content&pa=showpage&pid=5

 

[53guy]

what kind of angle finders are you all using? The only decent ones I can seem to find are cheap ones.

 

[CRASH]

the deal is I built a linked front end that produces 23 inches of travel and at full droop the pinion angle is out of control, so to be able to regain 4wd I need to change that angle so I can put in a drive shaft.... any ideas??

Where did you find 23" travel shocks, is what I'd like to know? I max my 1310 CV with 12" of travel, 5" up and 7" down.

Hell, most 1 million dollar, 2 wheel drive Trophy Trucks have about 24" of travel, so I'm really curious to see your setup.

 

[Skullver]

Where did you find 23" travel shocks, is what I'd like to know? I max my 1310 CV with 12" of travel, 5" up and 7" down.

Hell, most 1 million dollar, 2 wheel drive Trophy Trucks have about 24" of travel, so I'm really curious to see your setup.

no kidding, I've heard King makes shocks with up to 30" of travel, lets see some pics of said 23" of travel.

 

[CRASH]

King lists only up to 18" travel, which is 30" compressed and 48" extended. :shocked: I'm sure with the proper application of $$$ you can have them build you a 23" travel shock. I'd guess 37" compressed and 60" extended! :shocked: :shocked:

 

[Skullver]

King lists only up to 18" travel, which is 30" compressed and 48" extended. :shocked: I'm sure with the proper application of $$$ you can have them build you a 23" travel shock. I'd guess 37" compressed and 60" extended! :shocked: :shocked:

I knew I just saw this ad where they list up to 30" stroke on the pot this am, I'm sure they are customish and cost a very pretty penny though.

 

[BRIANHO13]

If you move the shocks up a radius arm set up you don't actually need all that much stroke to get to 23" of travel.

I would still like to see the set up though.

 

[cracker]

FWIW, Currie completely cuts off the knuckle with the axle tube inside, rotates them, and butt welds them back on at your new castor.

 

[XJEEPER]

Hmmmm, that's interesting.

 

[53guy]

FWIW, Currie completely cuts off the knuckle with the axle tube inside, rotates them, and butt welds them back on at your new castor.

Wow, sounds kinda....iffy, but I guess that currie won't screw it up a whole lot now will they? At least for what you're being charged. Out of curiosity, how do you know they just cut the axle tube and butt weld it?