Ross's Jeep that will take longer than Rob's to build thread...

[garrett83]

Do with the rear so light, wouldn't it help to build a leaf pack out of stock leafs that way they actually move?:dunno:

 

[foxwar71]

thats just it, the rear iant light. hell the spare tire/rim weigh more then the roof and hatch that are missing. add in the heavy bombproof rear bumper and cage work, there should be more then enough weight to move it

 

[MoparManiac]

You must just be retarded then.

 

[cmelo]

Leaf spring noobs

 

[Vanimal]

my rear leafs flex like a steel I beam, even with two leaves removed from the pack. the traction bar keeps the ass planted and from hopping, but I'm wondering if its binding or somethimg. the front also needs some limit straps, that might help to force the rear to flex too.


that or I just link the rear with some coilovers

are you basically sitting on your rear bump stops? if you are, nothing you do in the front is going to force the rear to flex when you're going up hill like that. having the rear flex a little more than the front plus having about 9" of wheel uptravel really helps keep the front planted on my heep.

 

[ktm racer 419]

are you basically sitting on your rear bump stops? if you are, nothing you do in the front is going to force the rear to flex when you're going up hill like that. having the rear flex a little more than the front plus having about 9" of wheel uptravel really helps keep the front planted on my heep.

That obstacle in the first couple videos just loves to get that front tire up in the air no matter the suspension setup. Every xj based vehicle, even some with rear coils, and plenty of uptravel won't come close to maxing out the rear suspension before the front tire starts hanging.

Mj's and longer wheelbase rigs definately have the edge there.

 

[Andy in Pa.]

Ross... I would remove those rear bump stops and see how it flexes. It seems to me that you only had 1" or less before hitting them.

 

[foxwar71]

The rear bumps are close to the bump pads, I'm getting like 3-4" of uptravel on the shocks and it bottoms up with a little bit shock shaft exposed. I plan to try removing the traction bar and then the bump stops to see how it flexes.


This is how everything looked when I first set it up and still had the bottom two leafs in the RE 3.5 packs. It flexed just as poorly, thus why I tried pulling the leafs. Even the giant skyjacker leafs and shackles in stock boxes flexed better. I figured the weight of the 14b and tires would have been enough to make flex.

 

[ROBZ95Xj]

The rear bumps are close to the bump pads, I'm getting like 3-4" of uptravel on the shocks and it bottoms up with a little bit shock shaft exposed. I plan to try removing the traction bar and then the bump stops to see how it flexes.


This is how everything looked when I first set it up and still had the bottom two leafs in the RE 3.5 packs. It flexed just as poorly, thus why I tried pulling the leafs. Even the giant skyjacker leafs and shackles in stock boxes flexed better. I figured the weight of the 14b and tires would have been enough to make flex.

you got somthin wrong i have like a inch before my bumps hit the pad and my rig flexes evenly, what frt coils you got?

 

[foxwar71]

Front coils are supposed to be 6" unknown brand, maybe rustys or rough country.

 

[Vanimal]

rough country is stiff as hell, rusty's is soft as hell. probably rusty's

 

[ktm racer 419]

i ran like an inch of uptravel for years and shit flexed fine

 

[dukie564]

dang how's your butthole mang?

Even your brakes complain about how lame your jeep is...

 

[foxwar71]

Even your brakes complain about how lame your jeep is...

My brakes need to be bleed and the pushrod adjusted out a touch. That's just another thing on the "list".

 

[foxwar71]

New WJ pitman arm with the old WJ one behind it

Third line/fitting issue. Starting to think maybe its the hose quality, seems to be stripping off

PS front rim, inside lip

 

[MoparManiac]

Are you burying the male threaded fitting on those hydro hoses? That's what it looks like.

You don't want to do that. Just go until its tight.

 

[Boostwerks.com]

Are you burying the male threaded fitting on those hydro hoses? That's what it looks like.

You don't want to do that. Just go until its tight.

X2. It looks as if the fittings are cutting into the hose.

 

[foxwar71]

I did the fittings just like the piece of paper PSC sent with them said to do. The first piece threads onto the hose until it bottoms out, then tighten the center fitting thingy into it. The instructions said not to bury it and have some threads showing, thats exactly how I did it, they looked just like the one on the picture. The second that blew out had more threads showing and alot further from bottoming out, it still blew the same way too. I'm just gunna have a local hydro shop make me some crimped-on lines since I wanna change the routing as well.

 

[MoparManiac]

Well in the pictures every single fitting looks bottomed out :dunno:

 

[foxwar71]

God damn I always forget how much this thing leaks until I remove the belly pan and get a face full of fluids. 1/2 gallon of water outta the framerrails, quart of gear oil outta the StaK, and a quart of ATF outta the AW4. At least now I'm starting to work on it again. Got the bent rim fixed and resealed the beads on three tires last week, no more flats. New plated tranny pan, filter and gasket go on the AW4 tomorrow to fix that leak, along with fresh ATF. Pulling the yokes off the StaK to try and fix that leak, I think the front output yoke isnt so smooth anymore and is chewing at the new seal. Also have new splined shaft seals that go behind the yoke since those are junk too. Next Monday I'm dragging the jeep over to a local hydralic shop to have new lines made for the hydro assist so I can get the ram back on. Might pull the dash apart this weekend to go over wiring and get the instrument cluster working again too.


Then I'm taking it wheeling on the 24th :greensmok