Rooftop diagram/schematic (yest another XJ trailer build)

[XJ Eric]

Hey I had absolutely no idea where to post this and I've searched so here goes:

I'm in the starting phases of building an XJ camping trailer. I am bound and determined to marry the rear ends of two xjs together to get a lift gate at both ends of it. Entrance to sleeping area on one side and galley on the front. While I was looking at my XJ, I noticed that the side bow out in the center of the jeep and then go back again in the rear. This is obviously going to create a problem when I join the two together. I need a schematic or diagram of the roof or undersides showing the width of the body at various points. All of this just to figure out where to cut and join them together. I've tried a tape measure but meauring on a curved body isn't very accurate.

Concept:

Help?

 

[YELLAHEEP]

Might I suggest entertaining the idea of using a 2dr XJ? Give up the idea of making the front of the trailer opening - it'd be difficult to have to work around the structure of the trailer tongue anyway - you wouldn't be able to stand directly in front of the planned galley.

A 2dr gives you side entrances much easier to deal with than the little rear doors from a 4dr.

Cut out the front part of the unibody at the cowl, then replace the cowl with a flat, curved panel of sheet metal. Replace the windshield with a flat, curved panel of sheet metal as well with some supports for both constructed to give the sheet metal rigidity. Call it good. :thumbup:

 

[DrMoab]

Cool idea that has been tried before. The biggest issue is tongue weight. You really need a 60/40 weight differential between the front and rear. You will never ever get that with the design you are looking for. Based on your photo, if you were to build a trailer exactly like that, you would be sitting with at least 300-500 lbs of tongue weight...way too much.

 

[shawnhancel]

X2 on what the Dr said, how ever the best place I know of to get those measurements would be a body shop with a frame straightener machine, if they would be willing to tell you.

 

[XJ Eric]

Might I suggest entertaining the idea of using a 2dr XJ? Give up the idea of making the front of the trailer opening - it'd be difficult to have to work around the structure of the trailer tongue anyway - you wouldn't be able to stand directly in front of the planned galley.

A 2dr gives you side entrances much easier to deal with than the little rear doors from a 4dr.

Cut out the front part of the unibody at the cowl, then replace the cowl with a flat, curved panel of sheet metal. Replace the windshield with a flat, curved panel of sheet metal as well with some supports for both constructed to give the sheet metal rigidity. Call it good. :thumbup:

You mean like the "Jeper"? He hasn't posted any finished photos of it yet, but his version isn't "finished" enough for my taste. I really want this to look like it was built at a factory for this purpose.

I'm also planning a swing away style tongue like the one's your seeing to prevent theft these days. It would get out of the way. I'm also planning a sliding tray would come out to further ease the tongue interference.

I'm thinking about a two door as a donor for the front half, but I want to keep the rear doors because using the fronts would make it obvious that it's a chopped up XJ.

Cool idea that has been tried before. The biggest issue is tongue weight. You really need a 60/40 weight differential between the front and rear. You will never ever get that with the design you are looking for. Based on your photo, if you were to build a trailer exactly like that, you would be sitting with at least 300-500 lbs of tongue weight...way too much.

referencing the "Jeper" again, he left quite a bit of XJ there so that was encouraging. I'm going to put a water tank in place of the gas tank. That should put some weight back towards the rear. I need to play with the dimensions at what point the roof lines will meet up to match. There will be a lot of trial and error.

 

[DrMoab]

It only puts weight back there till you use up all your water

Not trying to pee on your idea. Just bringing up realistic obsticals that could get in your way.

 

[GSequoia]

I have to agree with the Doctor as well, I just don't see how you could get the weight ratio right without moving the axle forward (which would make an interesting concept but would complicate your side entry).

 

[Xtreme XJ]

I have to agree with the Doctor as well, I just don't see how you could get the weight ratio right without moving the axle forward (which would make an interesting concept but would complicate your side entry).

See... me & Geoff do have a parallel thought from time to time..

How about moving the axle forward a few inches on a 2 door... you're gutting it anyways... move the fenderwells cover the surgery with flares..
You might still have a tongue heavy bias... I'm sure you would offset the H2o with gear forward of the axle so I'd try to get it as balanced as possible BEFORE any cargo goes in...
Cutting up a 2 door might put you on a hit list ??? Cutting an MJ in half did me :spin1:

Curt

 

[DrMoab]

See... me & Geoff do have a parallel thought from time to time..

I wouldn't admit this in public.

 

[Xtreme XJ]

I wouldn't admit this in public.

Ah true... damn fingers took off typing faster than my brain could think...

Does the "time to time" reference give me an out ?? :dunce:

Curt

 

[tbburg]

Going to be a problem, but to tow right, the axle needs to be almost centered under the trailer. You'll have to cut/move the axle
The easiest way to build this frankentrailer is probably going to be

Figure out the body size/length,
Center the axle under it, relocate wheel openings.
Straighten out your body panels from there.
Lot of cut work involved, but that's the only to make it pretty.

Have you considered doing away with the side doors entirely? With an opening hatch at both ends, would you need side doors? How about making a tent extension attached to the rear hatch(canvas, ripstop nylon, whatever,..)that drops down to the ground when the hatch is opened, with a zippered door like a standard camping tent?

As for getting roof dimensions, get a friend, 2 torpedo levels, and a tape measure. Run a length of masking tape down both drip rails, then mark it every foot up both sides.
Stand on either side of your XJ hold the torpedo level upright against the drip rail, your buddy doing the same on the other side. Measure straight across level to level at every mark from back to front.

 

[XJ Eric]

I'll try that measuring method you suggested. I'm planning a rooftop tent, like Dr. Moab's Jeep sold a hatch tent like you suggested a few years ago for Liberties. I'm hoping to pick up one of those, if I can ever find one again.

But no, I'm pretty set on keeping the side doors unless I have two- two doors drop in my lap.

 

[purplexj]

Unless someone has already mentioned it , some has done one in Australia except no front tailgate. Seems like a good idea. I think the 2 door may be too short for sleeping in . The 4 door puts the axle further back than the 2dr or Comanche style trailer i pull.

 

[YELLAHEEP]

Unless someone has already mentioned it , some has done one in Australia except no front tailgate. Seems like a good idea. I think the 2 door may be too short for sleeping in . The 4 door puts the axle further back than the 2dr or Comanche style trailer i pull.

LOL........ If the 2 door and 4 door axle locations are supposedly different, then why is there no mention of a wheel base measurement that lists 2 different measurements based on 2dr or 4dr. (wheelbase is 101.4")

The 2dr body will have the exact same interior dimensions.... no shorter for sleeping in.

The truth here is that the XJ unibody is the exact same length and the understructure is the same for both 2dr and 4dr bodies. The floor pan, B,C,D pillars and rear quarters are the only thing different.

Comanche's had 2 wheelbases: Short bed: 112.9" and long bed: 119.6"

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeep_Cherokee_(XJ)

 

[GSequoia]

LOL........ If the 2 door and 4 door axle locations are supposedly different, then why is there no mention of a wheel base measurement that lists 2 different measurements based on 2dr or 4dr. (wheelbase is 101.4")

I think what the poster meant is if you lop the body off at the rear of the front doors, if you do that with a four door it's a few inches further forward than lopping it off at the rear of the two doors.