Renix Not starting. Fuel pump not priming. only 7v at pump.

airtex again, unfortunately.
she still runs like crap, but I think it's fouled injectors. it was running poorly before the pump quit working, so hopefilly it's just injectors.
 
so now she statrts and runs, but it's running poorly. It was doing this before the pump up 'n died on me, so I halfway expected it to happen again.
I just replaced the injectors with the mustang 19# injectors today. Brand new CPS today. TPS is adjusted "in spec" but when it ran right before the recent happenings, it wasn't in spec (on purpose to get it running okay).

it kinda sounds like it's running a really hot cam. it'll start and rev up to 2400ish rpm and stay up there. but while up there, instead of running smoothly, it'd kind of hopping/missing/popping. I'm going to check spark tomorrow, and play with the tps some more... but any other ideas?
 
well, it's running smoother today than last night. Might have just burned some crap out after sitting for a few weeks.
but it still won't idle. It just revvs up to 2700 and stays there. The TPS is good (just tested it today) but adjusting it doesn't help. Though if I fiddle with it WHILE the engine is running, it'll come down to idle.
Throttle body is clean, IAC is clean (and relatively new).
I was having this problem a while ago but adjusting the TPS would get it to where it would at least come down to idle after a few seconds.
 
If the replacement injectors are used, they probably are clogged. Run a can of BG44K through the gas.
 
I'll do that. But would that cause sustained high idle??
 
I'll do that. But would that cause sustained high idle??

No it would not. Check the CTS and MAT resistance, engine off, disconnected with an ohm meter, hot and cold and compare to factory specs. I had an MAT that gave me random cold non starts and random high idles.

Did you check the FPR vacuum line for a gasoline leak?

A random vacuum line leak can cause a high idle too.
 
Okay, I'll check MAT and CTS.

I'd smell fuel from the fpr when I disconnect the line if there was a leak, right?
vacuum lines all seem to be sealed pretty well.
 
MAT and CTS both check OK.
 
OK, so now it won't start at all...
before it would start, but stumble real hard, and then catch, and then run. But now I try to start it, and it just stumbles really hard and dies.

I pulled the cap/rotor and there was plenty of black nastiness inside there, so I cleaned that out. didn't help.

also refreshed two grounds that go to the block, and two on the fenders. Nothing.

Still need to clean out all the connectors.

Ooo... clogged injectors could certainly cause this, couldn't they. How can I clean them out without being able to run the engine?
 
MAT and CTS both check OK.

Can you be a little more precise?

As in data? temp versus resistance?

I'd smell fuel from the fpr when I disconnect the line if there was a leak, right?
Yes to the FPR smell test for a gas leak.

If you get it running, Try cutting off all air to the top of the throttle body with a hard flat thick piece of metal or plastic (cover) when the idle is way way up, and see if it dies or if the high idle continues. That will confirm or deny a large high idle vacuum leak if it does not die!!!

If it will not start it may be flooded. In that case hold the gas peddle to the floor, WOT and crank till it starts. Then if it starts, work on the fuel injectors, cleaning or replacing bad ones!!!!!

Excess fuel from leaking fuel injectors will cause a high idle if the system is trying to go closed loop with the O2 sensor!!!! Other wise high idle is usually a vacuum leak, and lastly can be a sensor or control issue, like the IAC, TPS, MAT, CTS, or a ground problem.
 
Now that your pump is replaced, injectors are replaced (new?), and tps is set correctly why dont you pull your dist and index it properly. Or put the wires on correctly (I forget which it was you had done).

Or put the wires on correctly (I forget which it was you had done).
LOL, you mean like I did in the dark the other night, when I reinstalled the dizzy cap and rotor after inspecting when mine died, but I did not get the rotor seated down all the way?:doh:

Made the oddest cranking noise when it tried to fire, like I had lost the timing chain. Crank,Crank,Crank,Crank,Crank,Crank, THUNK!, ughhhh, Crank,Crank,Crank,Crank,

Rule number one, always recheck your work!!!
 
LOL, you mean like I did in the dark the other night, when I reinstalled the dizzy cap and rotor after inspecting when mine died, but I did not get the rotor seated down all the way?:doh:

Made the oddest cranking noise when it tried to fire, like I had lost the timing chain. Crank,Crank,Crank,Crank,Crank,Crank, THUNK!, ughhhh, Crank,Crank,Crank,Crank,

Rule number one, always recheck your work!!!
His number one wire comes from where 3 should be if I remember correctly.
 
Nope. Not like that. For some reason my replacement distributer body rotates, whereas a normal one should not. my dad and I found TDC and got it timed right.
Chris is bringing up something that has never given me an issue in the two years since we did it.
 
Nope. Not like that. For some reason my replacement distributer body rotates, whereas a normal one should not. my dad and I found TDC and got it timed right.
Chris is bringing up something that has never given me an issue in the two years since we did it.

Then just check that it has not "rotated" on its own?
 
Then just check that it has not "rotated" on its own?


That's exactly what I was planning on doing.

it will be done tomorrow, assuming I have time
 
So I hooked up my fuel pressure gauge back up today... It's not building fuel pressure. I can hear the pump prime when I turn the key forward, but it didn't go above about 20psi. I released the pressure, and let it prime again. only got to about 5psi. Cranked it and it it didn't go any higher.

Oh, and the distruibuter didn't rotate. Unless it somehow grew an arm, loostened the bolt, spun itself, and tighteend the bolt back down in the same spot.
 
*siiggghhhhh*
yup. could it be anything other than the pump?
 
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