rear suspension travel.

Boomerangs wont do anything for you unless your hitting the bumper bolts(which I doubt,if you have your RE shackles installed correctly),You might need to cut the bolts back though.It took over 2 years of "abuse" before my RE springs started to settle in and flex good!
 
if you subscribe to fourwheeler magazine in the back section is an article about the 10 biggest mistakes wheelers make(there are actually 11) and letting your spring get negative arch is one of them.
 
Schnoz said:
if you subscribe to fourwheeler magazine in the back section is an article about the 10 biggest mistakes wheelers make(there are actually 11) and letting your spring get negative arch is one of them.
I am glad I stopped reading that garbage, I can think of MANY mistakes that can be made that are much more important, or even true. I was told by Deaver that some negative arch is not only ok, but necessary for my application.
 
Thats where quality comes back in to play!Ive even left my rig parked while at max flex,Ive only lost 1/2" of liftRE springs) in 6 years of hard wheeling.In this pic the spring are slightly inverted.
crown%20king%2010-23-04%20019.jpg
 
fubar XJ said:
I also agree that axlewrap is more prevalent in flat/negative rear leafs, due to their softness compared to a highly arched pack...................... Like I said, if it works well for you, that's great. Do you also run a anti-wrap bar in the rear? I absolutely had to in my mildly arched CJ rear leafs, otherwise I would have been tossing driveshafts and snapping yokes. I don't have an axlewrap issue in the XJ, and I think being set-up for more droop than stuff helps with that, keeping the springs in at least some arch throughout their travel.

Yeah, I run an anti-wrap bar. I also run 2.25" blocks. My pack is pretty strong, it's made of a 1/2 ton Chev pack and a couple of the XJ leaves, under a 57" long MJ main leaf.......5" longer than an XJ pack. I have 8 leaves on one side and 9 on the other, so the pack is decently strong. Yet it rides and flexes very well, and bends negative, due to eliminating much of the friction by using full length liners.


Schnoz said:
if you subscribe to fourwheeler magazine in the back section is an article about the 10 biggest mistakes wheelers make(there are actually 11) and letting your spring get negative arch is one of them.


Shows you what they know. :)



Skullvarian said:
I am glad I stopped reading that garbage, I can think of MANY mistakes that can be made that are much more important, or even true. I was told by Deaver that some negative arch is not only ok, but necessary for my application.

Can't get a much better authority on leaf springs than Deaver. Pretty much the best reputation and best quality springs around.


OBXJ said:
I spoke to the engineers at RE and........................................They also recommended I loosen and re-tighten the front and rear leaf bolts with the vehicle on the ground in case the leafs had seized in the shackles..

Something to check...

One thing to always do, which not everyone knows about, is to not tighten the spring eye bolts tight. Get them snug, but so you can still spin the bolt with an end wrench.
 
I am glad I stopped reading that garbage, I can think of MANY mistakes that can be made that are much more important, or even true. I was told by Deaver that some negative arch is not only ok, but necessary for my application.

I'd use Fourwheeler magazine AS leaf springs before taking advice from them hahah
 
The pack I built only has 1.5" of positive spring arch, and 5.5" up travel, do the math. Lifts been on two years and hasn't sagged a bit.
 
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