Projext "V8 XJ" Build

So this is how the fuel pump fits through the bottom:


Will the filter be ok against the bottom of the tank?


This will work... however you've essentially removed the sump's ability to prevent fuel starvation. The return flows fuel into the sump to ensure that it is full even with a partial tank of fuel. This not only allows the pump to pull fuel from the sump if needed, but also keeps the pump submerged in fuel which helps keep it cool.
 
This will work... however you've essentially removed the sump's ability to prevent fuel starvation. The return flows fuel into the sump to ensure that it is full even with a partial tank of fuel. This not only allows the pump to pull fuel from the sump if needed, but also keeps the pump submerged in fuel which helps keep it cool.

So are you saying that the "fuel pump going out from soccer moms running around all the time with a 1/4 tank overheating the pump" is bogus?
 
This will work... however you've essentially removed the sump's ability to prevent fuel starvation. The return flows fuel into the sump to ensure that it is full even with a partial tank of fuel. This not only allows the pump to pull fuel from the sump if needed, but also keeps the pump submerged in fuel which helps keep it cool.

Thanks for that insight. It makes a lot of sense. I have everything to change the fuel pump back to stock. I'd just need a new bottom piece to the pump housing. I may run it temporarily and change it later.
 
So I've been doing a lot of research on the EVAP system. I have to get some wiring diagrams for a 2005 Avalanche but from what I can find out.
-Fuel pressure sensor is wired into the body harness that connects to the engine harness.
-the PCM requires fuel level to schedule EVAP actions. IIRC the jeep fuel sender resistance is 0-88ohms and the Chevy is 60 - 300 ohms or something. So I have to figure that out.
- just need to get those two things figured out. They seem easy, but I'm sure I'll be a bit harder than I think
 
Huh? That sounds like a CNBC debate kinda question.

I have heard numerous times that it's bad to run less than 1/4 or 1/2 or whatever because the fuel keeps the pump cool. If the pump is submerged all the time like you are saying, shouldn't that not matter?
 
I have heard numerous times that it's bad to run less than 1/4 or 1/2 or whatever because the fuel keeps the pump cool. If the pump is submerged all the time like you are saying, shouldn't that not matter?

While somewhat true, every vehicle is different. Not every vehicle out there has a sump like the jeeps (which is actually very effective). The engineers knew that a lot of these vehicles were going to be in off camber situations which absolutely requires a good sump. My CRX on the other hand had no factory sump whatsoever. In this application running low becomes much more of a factor, especially in hard cornering. :thumbup:
 
Didn't really have time to get much done this weekend. But I did get the oil pressure sensor in the adapter! The jeep oil pressure sensor is 1/8 -28 NTP. I used an earls reducer from 1/4ntp male to 1/8 ntp female. I had to tap the female portion of the reducer to the 1/8-27. But all worked well! I'll get it mounted up and put some heat shielding on the sensor because it's VERY close to the header.
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Slow updates are slow...

I got the transmission mount bolted up. I just added a couple of holes on the cross member. No biggie.

- Boostwerks - I'm taking your advise. I'm going to re-do my fuel system. Well "re-do." I already have pretty much everything I need. I'm going to order a new cheap fuel module. I already have the fuel pump. I ordered the Novak regulator bypass (you can order it separately for like $50). I think its a much smarter way of setting up the fuel system.

-EVAP - I HATE YOU. I've been doing A LOT of research on the evap system. I cant find the my answer. If I tune out EVAP in the ECU (so there are no EVAP CELs) will it pass SMOG. I have no clue.
 
It depends on the state. In CA, NFW. If you can have "an" unset monitor in NV, then maybe - but you need to read how many evap related monitors there are.
 
Slow updates are slow...

I got the transmission mount bolted up. I just added a couple of holes on the cross member. No biggie.

- Boostwerks - I'm taking your advise. I'm going to re-do my fuel system. Well "re-do." I already have pretty much everything I need. I'm going to order a new cheap fuel module. I already have the fuel pump. I ordered the Novak regulator bypass (you can order it separately for like $50). I think its a much smarter way of setting up the fuel system.

-EVAP - I HATE YOU. I've been doing A LOT of research on the evap system. I cant find the my answer. If I tune out EVAP in the ECU (so there are no EVAP CELs) will it pass SMOG. I have no clue.

Right on. I'm in the process of upgrading my fuel system as well if you want to check it out. I ended up making an adapter plate for the top of the fuel module to eliminate the regulator.

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showpost.php?p=246277104&postcount=177

I'm curious about that Novak piece. I'll have to look into that.
 
The EVAP system on the LS is actually pretty similar to the factory Jeep emissions setup. The fuel tank is vented into the charcoal canister which is connected to the purge valve on the intake manifold and a fresh air intake vent, both of which the computer operates. I connected the LS purge valve on my LS6 manifold to the factory Jeep EVAP purge hard-line that runs along the fuel-rail back to the canister.

For the system to operate, GM computer also needs fuel tank level and pressure sensor, which is located on factory GM fuel pump module. I decided to use a factory GM fuel module in the XJ gas tank but in your build maybe you can just add a GM fuel sending and pressure sensor to the factory Jeep can? On the GM unit, the pressure sensor just pops into a hole that has a little rubber sleeve in it.

Hth,

CJ

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Right on. I'm in the process of upgrading my fuel system as well if you want to check it out. I ended up making an adapter plate for the top of the fuel module to eliminate the regulator.

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showpost.php?p=246277104&postcount=177

I'm curious about that Novak piece. I'll have to look into that.

I'll post some pictures when I receive it. Should be here next week. The only downside on the Novak piece is the outlet is 1/8" npt (I'm really doubting if this is correct). That's such a small line I have no idea how it would supply enough to fuel. I'll see if I can drill and tap to 1/4" npt. If not there's another company that makes one, with a -8 AN. But it's $150 (OUCH)

I was going to post pictures on your thread, but it's in the advanced section and I'm not a paying member.
 
The EVAP system on the LS is actually pretty similar to the factory Jeep emissions setup. The fuel tank is vented into the charcoal canister which is connected to the purge valve on the intake manifold and a fresh air intake vent, both of which the computer operates. I connected the LS purge valve on my LS6 manifold to the factory Jeep EVAP purge hard-line that runs along the fuel-rail back to the canister.

For the system to operate, GM computer also needs fuel tank level and pressure sensor, which is located on factory GM fuel pump module. I decided to use a factory GM fuel module in the XJ gas tank but in your build maybe you can just add a GM fuel sending and pressure sensor to the factory Jeep can? On the GM unit, the pressure sensor just pops into a hole that has a little rubber sleeve in it.

Hth,

CJ

Thanks for the reply CJ. I guess the biggest thing is the wiring. I'm probably going to put a GM fuel level sender on the jeep module and just glue it about half way.

From my research the EVAP harness for the pressure sensor, fuel level, and the fresh air vent are all part of the GM body harness. I really don't know much about wiring and schematics scare me.
 
So I'm going to have a buddy of mine fabricate a fan shroud and a new upper radiator crossmember (or whatever it's called). I'm not using hood latches just hood pins. its going to be flat just like the aluminum flat stock. I wanted to get an idea of where to mount the radiator. It should work

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