Project Shoehorn - M90 into a 4.0L

If I was to re-do the mount, I would definitely change one thing - the compressor frame to A/C mount bolts. The bolt you can't see has the head welded in because it's hard to reach, and the other one is just loose. To align the angle of the compressor I have to leave everything just loose and tighten it up in the right place. Problem I found out is that between the idler pulley shaft and the alternator I can't reach the inside nuts at all, there is maybe 1/2" of room above the alternator and then I would still have to reach around the idler pulley shaft. If I do it again, I will leave both the bolts loose and either weld in the nut or have a nut tab so I never have to reach in there. I ended up using some wood shims to prop it up to the right angle with the belt alignment tool, then marking the mounts where it was, than taking it apart and tightening it all down outside of the vehicle.
 
IMO, I prefer captured fasteners over busted knuckles any day of the week that ends in a "y".

To me, it makes for a somewhat more professional product as it shows the designer thought about the person doing the installation.
 
Great job so far. I am quite curious to see what kind of intake you come up with. Any room to run a 3" pipe down to the front skid area for an intercooler?
 
rav said:
Any room to run a 3" pipe down to the front skid area for an intercooler?
Click to expand...

Not really. Best option I have come up with is to relocate the battery to the back instead of the drivers side, fill the space from the airbox with an air-water intercooler, and put the intercooler radiator on the skid plate.
 
Tonight's work was like trying to put 5 gallons of crap in a 2 gallon bucket. Lots of messy overflow.

I started putting together my first iteration of a compressor intake manifold. Here you can see it mounted in place with the throttle body installed. I only drilled the mounting holes and chose not to do any other holes until all the locations are solid.



But as you can see, where I put it there isn't enough room to attach the air intake tube.



Next I put on a de-skinned hood to try and find clearances. Above the compressor output there simply isn't enough room since it runs right into one of the braces. I'm probably going to have to cut the brace and find a way to reinforce it afterward.



There also isn't a lot of room for the TV cable connection, I'll have to drop the throttle body down a 1/4" to clear.



It appears as though a 45* bend right above the oil cap might do the trick for clearances. But it runs me into another problem. Can anyone spot the issue?





If you said "throttle cable bracket", you've done this before. On top of that, since I have to move the throttle body closer to the engine for intake tube clearance I lose even more room toward the pipe.

Right now I'm researching doing soft silicone tubing over the top of the engine towards the front. It will hold the pressure as needed but conform to being squished by the hood. Thankfully the folks at frozenboost.com are awesome and will take back all of the stuff I don't use.
 
Decision made. Switching to 2.75" tubing instead of the 3", then running soft silicone tubing (same material as the bends I have) over the valve cover directly to the intake manifold. The hood can push that tubing down but it won't change overall area. The output from the compressor is 2.75", same with the adapter on the intake manifold, so I won't lose any significant airflow. I had thought about using hard oval tubing, but there aren't any good clamps for that to clamp on the other adapters.
 
Got more work done on the compressor intake manifold version 2. Moved the overall manifold 1/4" lower and 1/4" to one side for better clearances. Also got the MAP sensor and bypass valve mounted, along with hooking up the new cabling to validate that I have sufficient clearance around the upper shock mount. All that is left now is to drill and tap for all of the vacuum ports and hog out all of the ports, then get the top and bottom plates welded.







I made all of the gaskets I will need and started working on modifying a throttle cable bracket to fit, but nothing to show yet. Going to be interesting to work around the upper A/C line for the throttle cable bracket.

I'm also seriously considering relocating the electrical junction box up about 1 1/4" and outboard as far as I can. Then I will be able to run the filter intake tube under the box instead of trying to go over it and running out of room. It also would make for better clearance around the compressor itself.
 
i realize our builds are completely different but depending on how much you loosen up and how you route your wiring I was easily able to mount my PDC herein the indent in the firewall over the rear of the valve cover :

DSCF3325.jpg


I believe all I had to extend was the wiring to the battery (that went in the back anyway).

just throwing an idea out there for you to gain some room.
 
Pics will come.

Yes, the hood frame is an old-school technique for figuring out what fits. Flores donated an old hood, O-Gauge de-skinned it for me, and I got the bare frame. I can set a level across the top of the middle to get a reasonable idea of where the skin would be. Great for checking clearances. Not my idea, mind you, but a good one.
 
See... Old Guys Know Things....

Wish I could take sole credit for this but........ I first saw my Dad use a de-skinned hood round about 1960 or so. Long ago at any rate.
 
Solar: Can you post the area that you are planing to cut in the hood? The reason i ask is my hood is all cut up for the scoop and Id rather cut it before I mount my scoop. Thanks in advance.
 
No hood cutting tonight. I hate cutting something that sensitive in the dark.

I did the the main charge air tube sorted out and fitted. The area of the pipe that runs over the gap between the A/C compressor and the valve cover has to be a hard pipe as I'm having a T welded in for the bypass piping.





Here's an overall picture of the hood frame I'm using for clearance testing sitting on top of the piping. I transferred the measurements of where the pipe hits on the test frame to the hood itself I'm going to cut, making it pretty darn accurate.



Turns out there would have been enough room to fit a 2.75" hard pipe over the valve cover. I actually have enough hard pipe, too. Oh well. That long silicone piece was expensive too.



Good view of how much room there is to move the PDC up and out. I like Grimm's relocation, but I'd like to not have to mess with the wiring any more than I have to. I think the up and out will be sufficient.

 
I am sure you have thought about this but I remember seeing a M90 in a Cherokee where the output head was flipped 180 °C. In that case for your setup it will be pointing towards the passenger side. Using couplers can you run a pipe towards the skid where your intercooler will be and then come out on the other side and go to the intake manifold?

The big question would be the space availability to run the pipe from the supercharger output, if there is then this whole hood fitment issue will not happen.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

1
New here, but not to Jeeps
Replies
1
Views
49
macgyvr
macgyvr
PLRX
SPACER-Belt TENSIONER Mopar 6503230
Replies
2
Views
94
PLRX
PLRX
S
96 xj ls swal
Replies
4
Views
197
silverpearljku
S
B
TPS troubles
Replies
2
Views
160
Blaines2399
B
R
Shifter pops out of 2nd
Replies
0
Views
67
rtd16
R
Back
Top