Project Shoehorn - M90 into a 4.0L

where did you get your refresh kit for the supercharger?
 
Re: Re: Project Shoehorn - M90 into a 4.0L

rav said:
where did you get your refresh kit for the supercharger?
Click to expand...

I picked mine up from supercharger-sc, or something like that. Have to look when I get home. I would have preferred to buy from Jon Bond Performance, but he doesn't sell a refresh kit, just the full rebuild kit with main bearings and seals. Problem is that doing those require a press and the specific jigs to do it right.
 
Any updates??
 
Are those 3"? What is the black silicone 90 for? looks good.
 
Yes. All 3" for the discharge line. IMO, this is going to be a very nice installation indeed. Every step of the way, he has thought things out, evaluated options and selected, what I think are all correct choices.

I want to see this in action almost as much as he does...
 
Yes, 3" main charge air pipe with elbows and such. The other smaller bits (including the black elbow, they didn't carry that size in red) are to connect back to the bypass valve.
 
So last evening I went to a junkyard which had the same color hood of my XJ for a custom hood scoop project that I am working on and right by the door they had this bad bod sitting on the floor:
m90_zps2d619709.jpg

Needless to say I bought it impulsively especially since i sold the M62. I plan on taking it apart and sending it for a full rebuild to Jonbond performance. I also came across this pic on FB for an intercooler idea that a guy is using for a turbo. We could modify this setup for a m90 too...
intercooleridea_zps0a48fa0c.jpg

I guess I should finish the scoop project first...
 
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Nice find. Jon Bond is great, he knows his stuff.

I had thought about the over-engine intercooler a few times. Every time I come back to the issue that the XJ 4.0 engine bay gets really warm all by itself and trying to use the bay air to cool anything is probably a losing proposition (you'll probably heat the charge air more than you'll cool it). If you want to push air in from outside you have to fight the natural low pressure over the back of the hood at any decent speed. If you manage to do that you're pushing yet more warm air into an already hot engine compartment that has really poor air flow. It seems like a good idea, but the more I think about it the less of a good idea it seems like.

If I ever do an intercooler it will be a water-air setup. I have some thoughts on where to put the heat exchanger but nothing is solid yet.
 
I have to agree with you. I guess the one option I still have is using the front skid plate. I have enough time so I will just patiently wait for you to finish yours.
 
There is also the option of going water to air intercooler like this one. Just search ebay and you get many examples. If I were to go that route I would create a separate mini cooling system for the intercooler to isolate it from the hot engine coolant.
 
Cranked through a bunch of work today, then got into a jigsaw puzzle fitting fest. This project is earning it's handle of 'shoehorn' big time.

Got the idler pulley mount finished and the 2 finished brackets painted.





Then put together the finished assembly.





Fabricated the rear support mount. Fits perfectly first time.



Belt routing turned out really well. I've got over 180* of wrap on the compressor pulley and the wrap on the A/C compressor is more than stock. There is 1/4" of clearance between the new idler pulley and the mechanical fan pulley. Going to need a hella longer belt though - right now it barely reaches the power steering pump.







Now comes the fun part. Here is the clearance between the compressor intake and the motor mount. The stock bypass motor is NOT going to fit - I tried.



So there are two options for locating the throttle body. Any thoughts one way or the other would be appreciated.

First option is what I had been planning on with the throttle body mounted vertically. The fun part with that one is that the large A/C hose has to run up and over the intake pipe. Then the throttle body has to be rotated so that the rotating plate and sensor connections clears the various pipes around there. The air intake will have to fit into a 90 before coming into the throttle body.







The other option is to fit the throttle body directly to the compressor intake. Leaving room for the adapter plate it just fits, assuming I move the oil dipstick. It fits about the same, just different clearance issues. The throttle cables would have to come from the bottom.

 
The other part of the puzzle is trying to route the piping for the bypass valve. I was initially thinking of dropping it straight down but there's no way that will work, for many reasons.

View from the back of the engine bay (sensor disconnected for pictures)



Looking straight down



Overall. Just need to connect the dots.




Did I mention that the hood doesn't close?

 
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Would using a piece of 2x4 tubing work for clearance? I guess I should have asked by how much is the hood not closing?

Can the 3" be routed in front of the engine instead of over the top? I would not worry overmuch about the upper radiator hose as something can be fabricated if needs be.
 
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