rav
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Albany, NY
I will try to post a pic of that setup in a few minutes.
Project Shoehorn - M90 into a 4.0L
- Thread starter SolarBell
- Start date
SolarBell
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Wheat Ridge, CO
I haven't checked it, but the output manifold appears to be able to have 3 output positions: each side, and to the rear (assuming the bolt pattern is as symmetrical as it appears to be). The output cannot be directed forward (toward the pulley) without a custom discharge manifold since the body of the compressor interferes with the stock discharge manifold.
I am currently configured to one side (up). As I see it right now, to go to the other side (down) would drop me straight into the uni-frame or the inner fender. Not my preferred place. If the stock discharge manifold could be pointed to the rear, that would probably be the best. My current configuration makes it really tight back there due to the compressor intake manifold, but it would put the discharge into the area of the engine bay where there is the most room over the engine.
If I were to design for a skid-mount air-air intercooler, I would plan on building the custom discharge manifold to route the discharge forward, then cut a hole in the front fender well (where the battery used to be) to drop the discharge down to the intercooler. Since I'm not running an intercooler (yet), that wasn't in the plan. Just routing the discharge forward doesn't get me anything unless I wanted to route the air under the engine for space.
I am currently configured to one side (up). As I see it right now, to go to the other side (down) would drop me straight into the uni-frame or the inner fender. Not my preferred place. If the stock discharge manifold could be pointed to the rear, that would probably be the best. My current configuration makes it really tight back there due to the compressor intake manifold, but it would put the discharge into the area of the engine bay where there is the most room over the engine.
If I were to design for a skid-mount air-air intercooler, I would plan on building the custom discharge manifold to route the discharge forward, then cut a hole in the front fender well (where the battery used to be) to drop the discharge down to the intercooler. Since I'm not running an intercooler (yet), that wasn't in the plan. Just routing the discharge forward doesn't get me anything unless I wanted to route the air under the engine for space.
rav
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Albany, NY
This is it, so in your case It will be pointing back and down
Last edited:
SolarBell
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Wheat Ridge, CO
Yep, options are way better if you dump the A/C compressor. You get to put the supercharger in a spot practically made for it, the output goes the right way, you don't need a new idler pulley, and you get all that room from ripping out the A/C lines and the dryer. If my Jeep wasn't a family camping vehicle I'd have done it that way from the start.
FWIW, I'm not a huge fan of the blow-through throttle body and blowoff valve setup. But that's just me. Otherwise that's a nice clean setup.
FWIW, I'm not a huge fan of the blow-through throttle body and blowoff valve setup. But that's just me. Otherwise that's a nice clean setup.
Last edited:
rav
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Albany, NY
I agree with what you say, I just wanted to show that switching the output head was an option but you had obviously thought about it. I can't wait for you to finish this. Good luck!
O-Gauge Steamer
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado Springs, Colorado
I quite agree. A very clean installation. I also do not car for blow of valves. All this fellow had to do was relocate the TB to the compressor's intake to eliminate the BOV...
Anyone see a bypass valve? Sort of need one with a supercharger. Unless the fellow is relying on the BOV to regulate boost under partial throttle conditions. A decidedly odd way of doing things.
SolarBell
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Wheat Ridge, CO
Relocated the PDC today. Ended up having to do it twice, first time I got to too high and the hood wouldn't close unless I took the lid off. Ended up with about 1/8" of clearance between the PDC and the hood.
The only limiting factor for placement was the cruise control cable.
I had to re-route the primary battery cable coming into the PDC since otherwise it would hang down directly into the path where I want to run the air intake pipe.
Lots more room, enough for a 3" pipe (got done just in time for sunset).
Also spent some time today working on the new compressor intake manifold. Between the jigsaw and the burr wheel, my workbench looks like silver snow. No pictures yet.
The only limiting factor for placement was the cruise control cable.
I had to re-route the primary battery cable coming into the PDC since otherwise it would hang down directly into the path where I want to run the air intake pipe.
Lots more room, enough for a 3" pipe (got done just in time for sunset).
Also spent some time today working on the new compressor intake manifold. Between the jigsaw and the burr wheel, my workbench looks like silver snow. No pictures yet.
Talyn
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Radford, Communistwealth of Virginia
Every time I hear PDC I initially thing Primary Domain Controller. PCM and TCM I think of the Jeep part.. but PDC just throw my brain off track.
O-Gauge Steamer
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado Springs, Colorado
Power Distribution Center. What is wrong with "Fuse and Relay Box" for a designator?
Would it be a FARB in Chryco Speak?
PCM in a Chryco product, ECM in most other products and then there is Ford and their EEC line of controllers.
At least TCM makes sense even if it doesn't actually control all of the transmission functions. WOT shift points are programmed in the PCM. This I know from looking at, and changing, the programming of my PCM. I dropped the high end shift points down 1,000 RPM. I now up shift at 3,750 RPM.
Would it be a FARB in Chryco Speak?
PCM in a Chryco product, ECM in most other products and then there is Ford and their EEC line of controllers.
At least TCM makes sense even if it doesn't actually control all of the transmission functions. WOT shift points are programmed in the PCM. This I know from looking at, and changing, the programming of my PCM. I dropped the high end shift points down 1,000 RPM. I now up shift at 3,750 RPM.
yossarian19
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Grass Valley, CA
So, OGS - from what you have seen in the programming, any thoughts on running more ignition advance on a stock motor?
O-Gauge Steamer
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado Springs, Colorado
Wrong thread to discuss. Maybe a new thread should be opened?
I only mentioned the transmission WOT upshift point as there is no need to run the engine up to the stock 4850 RPM point as the engine is making more than enough torque lower in the range.
I only mentioned the transmission WOT upshift point as there is no need to run the engine up to the stock 4850 RPM point as the engine is making more than enough torque lower in the range.
SolarBell
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Wheat Ridge, CO
Cut into the hood tonight. I also took out the hood vents I had since they hung down an inch or so, I will replace them with something else, not sure what yet.
Good news is, everything fits. I put in the charge air pipe to test and it fit perfectly.
All that is left now is to finish up the compressor intake manifold and to fabricate a couple of small brackets.
Good news is, everything fits. I put in the charge air pipe to test and it fit perfectly.
All that is left now is to finish up the compressor intake manifold and to fabricate a couple of small brackets.
O-Gauge Steamer
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado Springs, Colorado
Almost tuning time! Let me know, I will come over to help...
rav
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Albany, NY
Cut into the hood tonight. I also took out the hood vents I had since they hung down an inch or so, I will replace them with something else, not sure what yet.
Good news is, everything fits. I put in the charge air pipe to test and it fit perfectly.
All that is left now is to finish up the compressor intake manifold and to fabricate a couple of small brackets.
what tool did you use to cut it? Can you post the dimensions from the center indentation? It came out nice.
rav
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Albany, NY
Would something like this work?
I know you want to have a y pipe for the bypass for your application.
I know you want to have a y pipe for the bypass for your application.
rav
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Albany, NY
Found this awesome video of a M90 in a grand cherokee. Too bad we don't have the same real estate in the hood:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M4tMozlNS1E
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M4tMozlNS1E
Last edited:
SolarBell
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Wheat Ridge, CO
I used a 4.5" grinder with a cutting wheel. I cut it at the hole just outboard of the indent in the frame, then about 4" outboard of that. I cut out one spot where the hood was bonded to the frame, and left the other one intact. If you want exact measurements and angles I can get them a little later.
Would something like this work?
I know you want to have a y pipe for the bypass for your application.
Since I switched to 2.75" pipe the oval isn't necessary as it fits over the valve cover fine by itself. The stock output of the M90 is 2.75" so I'm not losing anything. I did find that oval piece as well. The cut I made in the hood is for the elbow coming off of the compressor which I can't ovalize easily.
Yeah, to have that kind of space would be nice. Helps when the engine bay is designed with the space for a V8 in mind.
Minor rant: Am I the ONLY one who swapped the compressor pulley for a 6 rib? Every single one I've seen videos of has the Thunderbird 8 rib pulley still on.
- Location
- Wasatch Range
Here's the louvers I used on mine http://www.genright.com/Jeep-Hood-Louvers.aspx#.Uztlhye9KSM
They might cover your existing holes, my holes are 3" W x 14.5" L
They might cover your existing holes, my holes are 3" W x 14.5" L
O-Gauge Steamer
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado Springs, Colorado
it will never cease to amaze me how people will spend large sums and then funk the details like installing a proper pulley.
With regards to the Grand Cherokee video, yup it is handy when the engine bay has been designed with a V8 in mind. I take issue with where the intercooler is located. Behind the radiator?
IMO, it needs to be in front of the radiator.
Just sayin is all...
SolarBell
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Wheat Ridge, CO
Last night I made the final mount for the AEM FIC. I had gone back and forth over where to put it. I finally settled on a mount directly under the steering wheel in the space behind the knee panel. The interesting bit? I put it on hinges so that it can come down out of the way when I remove the panel, but stays pretty firmly in place when the panel is there. I added a little foam afterward to the back of it to keep it quiet.
It also has a spot to zip-tie the cables coming into the FIC in place so they don't move. I do have to troubleshoot an issue though - I think I have a loose connection because when I try to drive it has no power and the AFR racks across the scale.
Today I got my aluminum parts welded. Seiler did an awesome job, they look great.
Tonight I ground down the mating surface of the throttle body since I had to extend the surface a little, then fabricated most of the throttle cable bracket mount. I still need to weld on a small brace so that the bracket stays in place and doesn't bend. The washers are there so I can figure out exactly how long of a spacer I need to get.
It also has a spot to zip-tie the cables coming into the FIC in place so they don't move. I do have to troubleshoot an issue though - I think I have a loose connection because when I try to drive it has no power and the AFR racks across the scale.
Today I got my aluminum parts welded. Seiler did an awesome job, they look great.
Tonight I ground down the mating surface of the throttle body since I had to extend the surface a little, then fabricated most of the throttle cable bracket mount. I still need to weld on a small brace so that the bracket stays in place and doesn't bend. The washers are there so I can figure out exactly how long of a spacer I need to get.
