Project: Keeping It Clean

[freerider15]

Case 2.

I'm not sure how everyone else buys their hardware, but washers have ALWAYS been something that have made me wonder. As an engineer, loose...is bad.

Why what do I mean?

Let's have a look! Below we have two 1/2" bolts. On the right, we have a 1/2" washer. See anything odd? Yeah, not really a tight fit. How about that washer on the left? That's a 7/16" washer....fits great. So me, I buy all my washers under size since they fit far better.

Most vendors supply hardware with the corresponding sizes. 110% nothing against them, it makes life easy. Me however...nope...I like a close tolerance fit.

 

[freerider15]

So, back to the skid.

A view from the tank side:

And finally...installed:

(today, just as the snow started to fall: )

Overall, pretty easy install. And instead of four Grade 5, 5/16" bolts holding it on the rear...I have four Grade 8, 1/2" bolts.

Boo ya.

 

[freerider15]

So the next step, was kind of dual fold.

I have a Dirtbound DIY rear bumper, that has the incorporated frame nut mounts. In company with that, I have a HD Offroad Shackle hanger kit, which uses those same holes.

So, I went ahead and got the bumper tacked together and put aside for some additional work later. I got the frame mounts test fitted, and burned together. This way, the HD Offroad Shackle hangers can be installed, and the bumper bolted on later when it gets finished.

So, we'll go through the install of a set of HD Offroad Shackle Hangers.

I traded Brian some LED stuff for these, and have been looking forward to getting them installed. Funnily enough, I was probably one of the first to have made a bolt in shackle hanger box (with the help of a former member, CagedXJ)...somewhere around 15 years ago now. I got flooded with people asking me to build them a set...but being a high schooler getting ready to head off to college...not happening.

You can kinda almost see them in this picture :laugh:

Never the less, I'm glad someone finally stepped up to the plate and made a killer product like Brian does, that works well and is proven. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend anyone order a set.

So, I got off to assembling things...

First, the bumper frame mounts.

Some burn in:

Hey, not too shabby...

And then some Self Etching Primer, followed by Rustoleum Hammered:

 

[freerider15]

So, after fitting up the hangers, threw some weld on them.

Though not required, I like them being 100% in place. Though not pictured, I also added more weld to the 1/2" bolt heads, since I planned on torquing these down to spec.

So, the only gripe I'd say I remotely had with the HD Offroad setup, was the shackle bolt holes. Now, for 99% of people, they probably don't care and it will work just fine. But, me being anal retentive, just couldn't let it sit.

The bolt holes on the piece that bolts up, were a bit large for an OEM sized bolt, as well as the bolt size provided. I noticed they we're very very close to 5/8", and with just...and a mean just...a touch of a 5/8" bit...they were there.

5/8" bolt on the right, bolt (near OEM size) on the left:

Well, obviously the stock shackle hanger bushing sleeves aren't 5/8"...so what about those?

Well, I just so happened to have some 3/4" OD, 1/2" ID tubing laying around. A quick drill out to 5/8" and I had my own bushing sleeves.

Lathe would have been real nice to have there...

The old bushing sleeves on the shackles, actually ended up in the lead springs. I had to cut one bolt out in order to get on of the shackles free. The bolt had seized to the sleeve...fun stuff.

So, this is how far the shackle can go up during uptravel...rather limited.

So, with a few cuts and cleanup (didn't cut away more in order to retain structural integrity), we have a much better range achieved:

Next was a bit of work, before install could start to begin the next day or two.

Small things I can't let go, tend to add to my project time. I didn't like the condition the shackles were in (dirty and small areas of powdercoat missing)...so I completely disassembled the shackles and:

- cleaned all the grease off of them
- gave them a quick sandblast in a few areas
- gave them a fresh coat of paint
- installed new grease zerks
- cleaned the bushing thoroughly and gave them a new freshening of grease

Hell, even the bolts going back on all got run through a tap, wire wheeled, and a coat of paint:

So then finally came the install today. First thing was to clean out the previous owners overzealousness with grease from where the hangers would install. So there went 20 minutes with some rags and mineral spirits cleaning out the hangers.

You'll note in the following picture, that the holes that the hangers bolt up into, are all over sized (for good reason to accommodate the variability in the frame). So, I went ahead and used thick washers, since the 1/2" bolt heads would actually be capable of being pulled into the holes themselves.

The hardware supplied with the Dirtbound bumper for these was all Grade 5. Perfectly fine, but I'm not one for...variety in that accord. I like it all Grade 8...because...well because I can .

Bumper mounts / Shackle hole mounts on (yeah, they've got some weld spatter, but since they'll be hidden...and I don't get as much time in the shop as I used to, I said fukk it):

The hardware for the 4 rear frame holes on the bumper / shackle mounts was replaced with some Grade 10.9 (metric) bolts. Ran a tap through all the holes to make life easier. No way was I going to re-use the stock crusty stuff.

All of the 1/2" bolts for the bumper/shackle hanger (other than the front most), got torqued to spec (~107 ft. lbs.). They aren't going...anywhere.

I was (unsurprisingly) running into an issue with the exhaust. The rear kink towards the passenger side would hit the bolt, and if I moved it any more to the drivers, it would hit the tank skid.

So, the exhaust got pulled, and a little snip snip:

A little flap disc and high temp paint, and it's like it never happened:

Took me longer to swap the wire out than to get that done...damn .024" wire that wants to poof the moment it slips from your grip...

I did add a 1/2" UHMW spacer to the exhaust hanger, to help keep the muffler out of the floor. But, bolted back in, and clearance for days! Install complete!

Nice 45* shackle angle:

A few last notes, since I myself like follow and details on anything others might think of.

Some might notice, I don't use a whole lot of regular nuts. I like stover nuts personally (metal deforming lock nuts). The chance of them coming loose is far less, and makes me feel a bit better. I use them all over on the buggy, since a worked loose bolt on that, could make for a VERY bad and possibly rather expensive day.

As well, in the case of the shackles, I don't need to wrench it down so tight. When you really torque those down, it doesn't allow for as much flex in the bushings as they need, and somewhat puts undue stress on them. I tighten until snug, then go maybe another turn after.

With bolts going into bushing sleeves, a little anti-seize is your friend. Some went on each bolt going into a sleeve, as well as the existing frame pocket bolt that loves to seize to the nut in the frame, and make life a PITA.

 

[freerider15]

So, now that parts have begun to land for the buggy...other than getting the front driveshaft completely gone through and installed, it will get driven and used until the buggy is back on all 4!

 

[TheDanShin]

this is awesome. good work!!!!!! love the attention to detail. its rare now a days with builds.

 

[Kittrell]

I demand updates.

 

[freerider15]

I demand updates.

:laugh:

I suppose I could.

 

[freerider15]

Overall...I've been mainly just driving the rig, enjoying (for the most part) being back in an XJ.

The last "big" thing I did was deal with the sh*tty OEM crossmember nuts.

I had been getting a creaking on the frame "area" when braking...and that shouldn't be happening given 2/3 of the rig has frame stiffeners.

I know the BDS crossmember wasn't 100% bolted in (3 OEM bolts, additional 4th not in).

So I finally rolled it into the shop and took a look. The passenger side of the crossmember where it bolts the the frame, I could see light through where it should be pressed up against the underside. Needless to say, one of the bolts wouldn't fully tighten, and the other were the (for aftermarket use) undersized OEM bolts.

So...I set off to jump them up to 1/2" bolts. Holy hell would that end up being a pain.

The drivers side was a nightmare.

Original plans were to drill the existing nuts out, and tap them to 1/2".

Well, the driver's side killed nearly a dozen drill bits, and one 1/2" tap trying to do so.

For reference, that area and those nuts are a BIT more beefy than I gave them credit for.

So, I ended up cutting out the entire section, and grafting in a piece of 1/4" steel with 1/2" buts welded to it. That itself ended up being nearly a days worth of work after cutting, making the new piece, grinding, flap discing, etc. to make it look as OEM as possible.

Passenger side, ironically went without a hitch, and all were drilled out and tapped within about an hour.

Got everything back bolted up (was real nice to be able to really torque down the crossmember), and took her for a drive.

No more squeaking! Also just felt better overall, and a little more solid while driving.

PITA to get done, but well worth it :thumbup:

Not much in the way of pictures on that one.

 

[freerider15]

So, after having gone through...a lot...of work when putting it together, getting things cleaned and cleanly routed...

The AL radiator in it sprung a leak.

I kept noticing a coolant smell after getting out from driving, and couldn't find the leak (was very small), until one day I heard a hissing sound. Looks like it was leaking from somewhere where the fins meet the core.

Likely easily fixable with some brazing/soldering...but I just didn't feel like screwing with it.

So, I picked up a Spectra off Amazon.

Sure, while it's not a Mopar, or fancy Mishimoto...didn't feel like spending a bunch of money and have had luck with parts store level radiators in the past. Worst case, I warranty it after a couple years, and maybe step up then.

My main worry was that I had AN fittings connected to the existing radiator, and how that was going to play out with the Spectra, and how I might have to change things up.

Well, glad to say...Spectra seems to have changed things up some!

The fittings for the trans cooler are now removable:

As such, I was easily able to order some adapters to AN, and make my life even easier than it was with the previous radiator.

I will note, I decided to 100% flush my system again. If it were a bit easier to add a coolant filtration system, I would do it in a heartbeat (likely saving it for a later time). The flush itself took me most of the time, flushing through probably 40-50 gallons (used and in line flush kit, and rigged up my own radiator cap with barb fitting to make it quick, easy, and clean).

Then, got the radiator slapped in and connected back up, and hoses cinched back down:

20190608_170707 (1) by offroadingjeeper, on Flickr

Note: I really need to get rid of the dang worm clamps. I have TONS of nice stainless t-bolt style clamps I bought for the buggy I should really swap out for.

Hose gets close, but still plenty enough room that I'm not worried by either the fan or what will be synthetic rope:

20190608_170701 by offroadingjeeper, on Flickr

Also throw on a new 16 lb. radiator cap with locking level handle thing.

Overall, the rig runs even a little bit cooler than before.

Did that swap a few months ago, and it's been good so far. I am getting a very light *hint* of coolant smell, but not seeing anything coming out anywhere. Might throw some dye in at some point and see if there is a minuscule leak somewhere in the system.

 

[freerider15]

So, some less...interesting things...:laugh:

Sam (zlsuter) helped me charge my A/C system.

He's got a proper vacuum pump and a/c manifold gauge set so we could do it right.

Got it all charged up, and still blowing heat...awesome.

Closed my heater core on/off ball valve...starts blowing cool. So note, I've got a blend door issue to figure out (likely a vacuum issue since I verified mechanics when it was all apart).

From there....we did notice my electric fan wasn't kicking on (not great for A/C). Fan is brand new, so no worries about it being dead.

Did troubleshooting (swapped relays, busted out the multi-meter, etc.) and finally just jumpered it to test A/C temp.

Fan is on, A/C working good...sweet.

So the next day, I looked into the e-fan issue more, and realized the PCM wasn't grounding out the fan for some reason. Figured I would just put in a bypass switch at some point, and call it good for a while (not optimal choice as I like things working how they should, but there's only so much time in the day).

Well, I went home for lunch, enjoying my A/C. Upon heading back to work, I get in the vehicle and BOOM-HISSSSSS. Crap...what was that.

Thinking maybe the Spectra radiator gave out, I get out and walk around to the front...no fluid going everywhere, no coolant smell.

So I pop the hood...yum:

At the time, I figured it was a questionable schrader valve we identified.

So, pulled it around to the side, and got it all washed off.

Fast forward to this weekend and I take a further look, so I can get it recharged again since Sam was kind enough to lend me his A/C stuff.

Pulled vacuum...not getting down to the ~27"Hg it should be...crap.

Upon a quick look around and listening for it...found the accumulator connection had popped off (retaining clip removed prior to picture):

Upon even further inspection, I realize I bolted the accumulator in before having the connections pressed in, and thus is was naturally wanting to pull outward. So, I loosed up the accumulator mount, stabbed the fitting back in, threw the clip on, and bolted the accumulator back down.

Vacuum pulled great again, and got the system charged.

A/C is blowing pretty nice and cold...but that dang e-fan needs to be on.

After texting back and forth with Sam, I decided to swap in my spare PCM juuuuust in case. Mind you, I'm not running a 2001 PCM, but a federal 2000 PCM...for reasons

Before anyone asks, I did a wiring and pinout verification...99-01...no difference. Therefore the PCM ground location wasn't different, and the year change should have no effect.

Got the new PCM thrown in and VIOLA!...e-fan works!

Feels so much better having a system working as it should.

The engine temp rarely got above 210 without it, with it it sits between 180? (tick mark prior to 210) and 210...good to go.

 

[freerider15]

So, COFest is coming up, and I've still been cranking on the buggy as possible (in a addition to some house stuff).

Going to try and switch between now that the buggy should be a roller again this evening.

Things to knock out:

- Front Dirtbound DIY bumper - Sitting in it's box, just need to get it on and going

- Rear Dirtbound DIY bumper - All formed and tacked up. However, since I'm anal retentive I want the body lines and the bumper to match up pretty well perfect. The bumper pushed as high at the brackets will allow, still need to come up 3/8" to get the lines even. So, I need to get some of the same bumper brackets drawn up with the holes a little higher and have Sam CNC them out for me real quick.

- Rock slider - I've had a set of Offroad Armor rock rails sitting around for several years now I won at a COFest raffle. I want to get this mounted, but need to get the new side plates for the BDS crossmember made up first.

The above are mainly to have recovery points and keep my rockers straight. All of the above is only a weekends worth of works...but there's only a couple of those left between now and then.

Otherwise there are some things to address here and there with the rig:

- Mount up a new vacuum ball (sitting in a box from Amazon)
- Install a new driver's side window switch (sitting in a box from Amazon)
- Redo headliner (sagging in a couple areas, not a high priority)
- Get rear window wiper working (I can hear it wanting to work, but there is no movement)
- New windshield at some point (current one was bad from the get go)

This winter, once other projects subside (e.g. buggy and house stuff), I'll pick up on the next build state and start building the axles sitting out back.

 

[Weasel]

Are you satisfied with the DirtBound bumper? It's looking similar to the JCR version and I'm not quite sold on them given they seem to be just a shell like the stock with little internal bracing (fixed easily enough). Also the little top square filler pieces under the light are not boxed in on any of these? I'm still debating between both versions and maybe even going with the tire carrier to haul extra fuel or whatever (but not a spare tire).

 

[Weasel]

Case 2.
....washer rant.....

Most vendors supply hardware with the corresponding sizes. 110% nothing against them, it makes life easy. Me however...nope...I like a close tolerance fit.

:laugh2: Thought I was the only one, spend more time looking for correct fit washers than time spent on the rest of the project.

 

[in4aride]

What days you doing cofest. I only really care about holy cross as I’ve never run it.

 

[freerider15]

Are you satisfied with the DirtBound bumper? It's looking similar to the JCR version and I'm not quite sold on them given they seem to be just a shell like the stock with little internal bracing (fixed easily enough). Also the little top square filler pieces under the light are not boxed in on any of these? I'm still debating between both versions and maybe even going with the tire carrier to haul extra fuel or whatever (but not a spare tire).

Overall I'm happy. I'm a perfectionist (to a point of it being a negative at times), so there were some things for me to fix/address.

I'm currently working on getting the bumpers welded up...as I didn't get as far as I wanted this weekend (wasn't pushing super hard).

I think you'll find most all aftermarket bumpers are a shell with internal bracing. Adding more bracing could be done (I will have a little), but at 3/16", if it comes to hitting something hard enough to need additional internal bracing, you'll likely have larger worried with the rig itself.

The square pieces under the rear tail lights aren't 100% boxed, but IMO don't really need to be.

:laugh2: Thought I was the only one, spend more time looking for correct fit washers than time spent on the rest of the project.

Yeah, I frequent my local Ace...a bit.

I've come to buy 25% to double what I need when going, and shorter/longer in the bolt size I think I need since I've needed a different length than thought originally. As such I've come to start to amass a bit of a hardware collection. The thicker and hardened washers have become almost a new go-to for me, since they're stronger material and don't deflect when truly torquing the fastener down.

What days you doing cofest. I only really care about holy cross as I’ve never run it.

Leaving Wednesday night, coming back Sunday. I'll text ya thoughts on trails (posted somewhere in the CO forum).

 

[trippled]

I love ace, but if I'm buying a bunch of bolts anymore boltdepot.com has become my friend.

 

[freerider15]

I love ace, but if I'm buying a bunch of bolts anymore boltdepot.com has become my friend.

Ordered quite a bit from them, but only when I know I need quite a bit.

Otherwise it's much more practical to go to Ace and grab the few I need.

 

[Weasel]

CAT dealer is my bolt store of choice. Has a huge selection and if they don't have it they ship it in next day, no charge.

 

[Heavyopp]

Albany county fasteners is my go to for nuts and bolts — they have a ton of stuff and are local to me so I can buy online, wait about 30 minutes and call them, then go pick up — 20 minutes from my house to their door