Project: Keeping It Clean

[freerider15]

Now that the sound deadening was in place, it was time to get the stereo system installed.

Unfortunately lost most of my pictures of this, so I'll show what I've got.

Power Distribution Bar run from the battery and mounted, and then the amp power line and fuse run from that:

I went with the following found sound setup:

Headunit - Alpine CDE-143BT
Amplifier - Infinity Reference 704a, 4-channel car amplifier — 70 watts RMS x 4
Speakers - Infinity REF-6522EX 330 Watt Shallow-Mount 6-1/2" Coaxial Car Speakers

I won't lie, getting it all done was a bit of work. I ran the two sets of RCA cables towards and down along the passenger side floor. In hindsight, I wish I had just run them straight when I was installing the interior. I ran the speaker wires down the driver's side (to get them separate from the RCA cables). The amount of wires makes getting the trim back on a bit of a pain.

Amp in place and installed, with all wiring tucked away:

Speaker wire (larger gauge) run out the driver's door with connectors crimped on and heat shrinked:

Stereo wiring, cables, etc. and such ready to go:

I've never liked how the stereos tend to just "hang" in the back. So, I took some of the extra foam I used for the heater core and built a sleeve that the very back of it would be supported by. It still had plenty of body exposed to allow for heat dissipation.

In hindsight on this, I should have made the stereo wires a bit shorter. It got to be a pain to pack it all in there. Thought of it just as I was about half way through :laugh:

Ran the RCA cable up over the dash, using rubber lined clamps to hold them in place:

Stereo in and done (just took this picture, felt odd not having a wrap up :laugh

I haven't gotten around to dialing in the amp, and the system already blows away the stock setup.

Once that was all done, the interior got finished up and put all back together...huge step in getting it there!

As a note, everything, as usual, got a scrub and clean before going back in.

Hell, even the metal cover below the steering wheel got a scrub, wire wheeled, and in this case, a coat of paint:

 

[freerider15]

Other things, in no particular order:

I got my Boostwerks Comp Mount for a hidden winch and steering brace setup.

Mine is actually a Gen 2 (I believe it was), but I just wasn't able to get it installed right away.

The install wasn't a walk in the park, mainly since my Jeep wasn't 100% straight even after repairs. Damn close, but just enough to make things a little harder.

Either way, 110% worth it.

Final installed product:

I opened up a slot on the bottom, the long round hole, since I'll be running a Smittybilt 8k on this rig (I've had a couple sitting around). The handle knob swings just below this hole, and makes for easy engaging and disengaging. You might be able to see it in some other pictures. If not, I'll follow up with it.

Winch going in. You can see it's rotated here to have the handle down. This is just how it sits mounted if you were to be looking from the back:

Winch sitting in there:

Brace from below:

The only other thing I had to do, was to trim the fan shroud just a little to get it to fully sit down, as it was hitting one of the power/ground lugs on the winch.

I still need to get the control box and wiring done, and get a rope put on. But, those haven't been high priority.

 

[freerider15]

While I had everything apart, I went ahead and put a trans cooler in.

Of course most of those photos went too, to I'll throw up what I have.

I went with a Derale 9000 Series Fin & Plate Transmission Cooler, 8.875" x 10.125", 1/2" In/Out.

I dislike regular barb style fittings, so I went with AN fitting anywhere I could. I got the trans one put in easily. The radiator was a little more of a pain. One of the fittings on the radiator already was setup for one, but the AN fitting bottomed out before the sealing faces were together. So...a little dremel action in the vise to cut off a hair of the screw seat:

And it screwed right on just fine.

The other hole was originally just a tube clamp style output. So, using my air compressor to create a positive pressure inside the radiator, I cut the tube off, drilled out the fitting (very slowly and carefully), and tapped it for NPT thread.

The AN adapter fitting went right in after:

An installed pic, since the rest are gone:

If anyone is curious, I can get more photos of how I routed all the tubing and such.

 

[freerider15]

Got my Boostwerks Trans Shifter kit installed. Still might need a little tweaking but it works as is:

The Jeep had a remote start system installed previously, brand was "Code Alarm".

It wasn't fully still installed, so instead of just trying to get it all wired back in, I just pulled it all out...glad I did.

This was the installers version of splicing:

Instead of doing it right, and clean...we'll just strip off a section from the wire we need and wrap these other wires around that one, and then just wrap it all up in electrical tape.

There were 4 splices like this. Got it all fixed and back to stock now.

Back on the front, I got my generously given to me Bilsteins and JKS shock adapters mounted up. A good buddy of mine (and former roommate) didn't need these after he started his 1 ton build on his TJ. So, he offered them up to me for this Jeep.

It as well got new rotors, pads, calipers, and Crown steel braided lines installed as well. I had to do an inline spice on the passenger side the flare I tried to get done wasn't perfect. Just a minor thing to fix from the accident it was in. As a note, the general clamp style flare tools...suck. Picked up an in line flaring tool kit:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DO9142G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Far far better tool.

I also ended up pulling it all off after this picture on both sides to get the front frame portions on both sides sprayed with 3M rubberized undercoating.

The panhard axle side mount is one that has kind of puzzled me. The OEM bolt in an M10, yet the hole on the axle is larger (loser to 1/2"). That leaves room for play, which on the panhard...I don't like.

Here's the original bushing sleeve, with an OEM M10 bolt:

A little...loose I'd say.

So, I installed a bushing sleeve I had around, meant for a 1/2" bolt (bushing looks worse than it is in this picture):

I then drilled out the axle side to 1/2", and it's like it should have been! Fits SO much better now, no play at all.

 

[freerider15]

The Brown Dog motor mounts we're a little worse for wear in the bushing department.

So, I decided to try the StinkyFab Motor Mounts and Trans mount.

Quality products by far, and install wasn't too bad.

I got the inner fender cleaned up, wiped down and painted. Followed that up with getting the fender mounted and the front end worked on:

 

[freerider15]

From there, I got the rest of the front end put together, cleaning and painting as I went along. Hell, even the cross member that bolts to the front, that the top of the header panel bolts to got cleaned and painted :laugh:

I went with clear turns and side markers, and amber LED's.

For the headlamps, I went with Hella H4 E-Code housings and drop in LED bulbs. Light output is fantastic, and cutoff is great as well. I tried Autopal E-Code housings, but they don't work with LEDs, they only work with incandescent bulbs. The Hella housings in these pictures were actually stolen off the buggy. A new pair landed yesterday that i'll be installing.

And then, finally yesterday I got some 265/75R16 Duratracs I've had around mounted up...love it.

Which brings us to today.

I got the links all adjusted, axle centered, and toe taken care of. Now to put some miles on it and get it emissions tested and plated!

 

[freerider15]

So there were some additional things done that weren't shown.

- Swapped a new passenger door in since the old was one peeled back slightly at the front lower corner.
- While pulling my buggy in, I managed to run over my fan shroud (new) and electric fan, so it got new of both.
- While doing a 100% suspension bolt check, I decided to remove the rear sway bar. This resulted in 1 broken Ubolt. So I just went ahead and bought an entire ProComp Ubolt set locally and installed those.
- Lots of other little crap :laugh:

The rig is still far from done. Now that it's roadworthy, it will give me time to drive it and work out small bugs. The passenger side window doesn't want to work from the driver's side or passenger side, and the driver's rear door doesn't work from it, so I'll have to dig into those.

A list of things to still wrap up:
- Make new side plates for the BDS crossmember uniframe attachment
- Use my $$$ Adams polishing system and give the Jeep a GOOD once over
- Try to get the key fob working
- Install new fabricated inner fender foam inserts, a pool noodle or two, and fender liners
- Install swaybar (just waiting to get some drop brackets from Bryson)
- Take care of rattles, squeaks, etc. as I can.

Next on the list for install:
- F & R Dirtbound Bumpers (DIY kits) - sitting on the shelf
- HD Offroad Shackle Hangers (sitting on the shelf)
- Front Driveshaft rebuild and install
- Tomken Gas Tank Skid (sitting in my shop loft)

Likely for now though will just be working what bugs I can out and putting some miles on it, since it's time to get the buggy back it's feet and get ready for EJS

 

[trippled]

So now that you've driven it some, how much did all the sound deadening help? If you have the fobs I think you need a scan tool to program them. I think there was a way if you have two fobs already and want to add but adding new you need to use a drb to program them. Looks like it'll be a good little trail rig.

 

[freerider15]

So now that you've driven it some, how much did all the sound deadening help? If you have the fobs I think you need a scan tool to program them. I think there was a way if you have two fobs already and want to add but adding new you need to use a drb to program them. Looks like it'll be a good little trail rig.

Well, I'll have to do some comparisons against Sam's (Zluster) Jeep, but I'd definitely say it helps. Hell, I can't really even hear the fuel pump prime.

Once I get the doors and hatch done, I'm sure those will help make even more of a difference.

I've only driven it to the gas station and back (like 1/4 mile round trip), and around the block a couple times. I'll try going for a putt putt around town tomorrow. New baby is keeping me limited on time.

Sam has a DRBIII scan tool, so he's more than equipped to help me out with that. Once we have some time, we'll see about getting it setup.

Yeah, once it's done and all the stuff I've gathered that's sitting in the loft of the shop is on, it will be quite the sleeper...well able to handle 35's if not 37's, maybe 40's in the rear...all the while never running more than a 32", MAYBE one day 33" tire

 

[BALTANAKT]

@Freerider - Really cool winch you've got there. Looking forward to seeing how you do the front bumper. I have the early body style, also dark blue, that I am restoring. Curious how this winch would work with my stock bumper and whether it could be done neat and clean.

 

[deesiexj]

I just finished up a similar (though not quite as intensive) sound deadening job my Jeep, and it was a notable improvement. I went from ~74 decibels in the cab to ~65 at highway speeds. That's just a sound meter on my phone, so who knows how accurate it was, but still a pretty good gauge of how much quieter it is. I wouldn't be surprised if yours was even better

 

[Ralph77]

I just finished up a similar (though not quite as intensive) sound deadening job my Jeep, and it was a notable improvement. I went from ~74 decibels in the cab to ~65 at highway speeds. That's just a sound meter on my phone, so who knows how accurate it was, but still a pretty good gauge of how much quieter it is. I wouldn't be surprised if yours was even better

I did to. Wish I had run a before and after test like you but for me it was more a while we are here thing for me. Really just a turn up the radio kind of guy. Was doing Infinity Tweeters and door checks so while we were there. Swapped out cheap aftermarket turned purple tinted glass for some factory Privacy Glass so while we were there. Put in an overhead console so while we were there. You get the idea. Did a little write up but have not gotten to the floor yet.

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f177/sound-deadening-2000-cherokee-sport-4086497/

 

[steed76]

freerider

I'm actually tearing down my interior this spring for the same reasons, full interior resto, new a/c sound and heat insulation with new carpet, new headliner etc. I'm really interested in your feedback on how everything turned out! Anything you would change?

 

[tumble]

Are you planning on using the Boostwerks relocation bracket to mount your winch contactor/solenoid under the hood? If so, what are you doing for your coolant tank relocation?

I've used a Dorman tank and relocated in front of my brake booster.

 

[DutchVDub]

XJ is a lot nicer than mine, that's for sure. Maybe after the move and buggy build I'll go through the XJ like you did. I kind of doubt it though, you've got more patience than me by far. Great work.

 

[RCP Phx]

And then, finally yesterday I got some 265/75R16 Duratracs I've had around mounted up...love it.

You'll like that set-up, been with the same combo about 6yrs now and never changing. Did you get the "C's" over the "D's" ?

 

[freerider15]

@Freerider - Really cool winch you've got there. Looking forward to seeing how you do the front bumper. I have the early body style, also dark blue, that I am restoring. Curious how this winch would work with my stock bumper and whether it could be done neat and clean.

The Boostwerks mount has been done with a stock front bumper and looks like it works great. I know there's pictures of the setup either on here () or on Cherokee forum.

I just finished up a similar (though not quite as intensive) sound deadening job my Jeep, and it was a notable improvement. I went from ~74 decibels in the cab to ~65 at highway speeds. That's just a sound meter on my phone, so who knows how accurate it was, but still a pretty good gauge of how much quieter it is. I wouldn't be surprised if yours was even better

Yeah, I need to get around to that. Just working on a few things here and there before I do. I know my 7.3L Superduty is ~75...at idle :laugh:

I did to. Wish I had run a before and after test like you but for me it was more a while we are here thing for me. Really just a turn up the radio kind of guy.

Yeah, wouldn't have been able to really do a before, given it's state. But I do have some to compare to. It's a little drony/vibrationy at low RPM, but that might be my muffler being a little too close, and so things still needing gone through. Though really, not enough to where I still am not perfectly fine with it.

freerider

I'm actually tearing down my interior this spring for the same reasons, full interior resto, new a/c sound and heat insulation with new carpet, new headliner etc. I'm really interested in your feedback on how everything turned out! Anything you would change?

Offhand, I would use something a little less dense and more "springy" for the foam I used on the heater core and other areas. It was a little too dense and had to be shaved here and there. As well, it made getting the dash back in a little harder. Something in between the OEM (very open cell) and what I used, would be ideal.

Offhand other than that, can't say I'd change anything...yet.

Are you planning on using the Boostwerks relocation bracket to mount your winch contactor/solenoid under the hood? If so, what are you doing for your coolant tank relocation?

I've used a Dorman tank and relocated in front of my brake booster.

Actually just got back from Bryson's shop as I type this (got a set of sway bar relocation brackets). I might, but since my solenoid has the plug coming out of the top, it could be an issue with the hood. Once I get the front Dirtbound DIY bumper welded up and on, I'll look at how to flow it all together to make it as easy and clean as possible.

XJ is a lot nicer than mine, that's for sure. Maybe after the move and buggy build I'll go through the XJ like you did. I kind of doubt it though, you've got more patience than me by far. Great work.

Eh, if it didn't start clean, wouldn't have put this much effort into it.

Honestly, between it and the buggy, it's been...stretching thin...at times to try to keep the level of effort and detail up on this. Luckily it's done and I'm driving it around now. Still have a list of things to work out (rear wiper doesn't work, windows aren't all working, etc.). But, I'm currently now working on getting the D60 tubes welded and the axle stripped and blasted and prepped for C's :laugh:

Once the buggy is back on all fours, I'll likely move pretty quick on the 8.8 at least. These stock gears and 265's aren't the greatest :laugh:

And then, finally yesterday I got some 265/75R16 Duratracs I've had around mounted up...love it. You'll like that set-up, been with the same combo about 6yrs now and never changing. Did you get the "C's" over the "D's" ?

I've always been a fan of the Duratracs. Couple that with the fact that I got them for a great deal from a good friend (in4aride) made it that much easier to go with them.

If I remember right, they're load range C. I'd have to double check.

 

[Ralph77]

Yeah, wouldn't have been able to really do a before, given it's state. But I do have some to compare to. It's a little drony/vibrationy at low RPM, but that might be my muffler being a little too close, and so things still needing gone through. Though really, not enough to where I still am not perfectly fine with it.

I want to say what I did made a difference. Could be imagining things though. One thing imagined or real is that I seem to hear more of my music. If that makes sense. With a stock system.

 

[freerider15]

So, since I've been waiting on some parts for the buggy to arrive, I decided to jump back on this for a few.

To start it off, a Tomken Gas Tank skid plate. Now, I'll be 100% transparent here, I won this at a raffle.

The Tomken skid wouldn't have been my *first* choice, but never the less, it should do the job just fine. The skid itself is 1/8", so a little lighter duty than others. It uses a different mounting setup, which in my case, made life much much easier. The Tomken skid mounts with 4 bolts on the rear crossmember, and to the threaded tank studs in the rear.

One thing that I had planned on doing to this since I got it, was adding some skid material to the bottom. What did I choose? UHMW of course . I've still got a good portion of the sheet I used for the buggy left, so the Tank Skid gets the same treatment.

Why add UHMW?

Well, its adds some rigidity to the slightly thinner material. But, more over, it slides a hell of a lot better than steel, and absorbs impacts a little better.

The first thing I did was get to removing the packing tape that seemingly didn't want to come off, as well as the Tomken sticker (sorry, not a sticker/logo kind of person).

I got the UHMW cut, edge routered, and a slit routered to allow it to sit on the tank and make the contour. Once it was set, I got to drilling and used rivet nuts for keeping the skid in place (a big thank you to my buddy Sam (zluster) for letting me borrow his rivet nut tool):

Got them all in:

And, since I know it will be asked...no, I'm not remotely worried about the rivet nuts and tank puncture. The skid has room, and the roundness of the tank make it so if they did touch, I'd likely need to replace my tank anyhow...since the skid would be crushed.

 

[freerider15]

So, not really a rant, but something I'll cover...since it's always a sticking point.

One area that I'll point out where I like to go a bit above and beyond, is hardware fitment.

What do I mean? Well let me show ya!

Case 1.

The hardware supplied by Tomken was 5/16" for where it bolts to the rear crossmember.

Here's how that looks:

Hotdog down a hallway anyone? They did provide washers that would hold, and I'm sure it all would work just fine.

Here's the same 5/16" bolt, on their own skid:

Still too much play for me.

Want to know what was REAL close to fitting? 1/2".

1/2" filled the frame side hole...a bit better:

With about 2 minutes with a drill, 1/2" fit on the skid. Overkill? Fukk yeah...but it fits a hell of a lot better!