Project Geosynchronous Orbit

I dunno, half inch of cast isn't THAT strong... I bet you could put a hole in it.

Is it cast iron or cast steel? Because I have broken cast iron that thick with a carpenter's hammer.
 
that aint so bad i guess.

not sure how that tranny mounts but i'd make sure its uber low profile
 
I dunno, half inch of cast isn't THAT strong... I bet you could put a hole in it.

Is it cast iron or cast steel? Because I have broken cast iron that thick with a carpenter's hammer.

Cast iron. I would love to see you TRY and break it.

that aint so bad i guess.

not sure how that tranny mounts but i'd make sure its uber low profile

It bolts to the factory adapter out back with two bolts on each side.

The black thing inbetween the trans/t-case in this pic:

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Should be easy to keep it low profile :thumbup:
 
Cast iron. I would love to see you TRY and break it.

It bolts to the factory adapter out back with two bolts on each side.

The black thing inbetween the trans/t-case in this pic:

24226_535633728970_41902041_31572260_4961236_n.jpg


Should be easy to keep it low profile :thumbup:

damn thats nice. you could probably make a crossmeber nice and out of the way and a completely separate belly pan.

i always had the idea in my head to make a tranny mount for the aw4 that perhaps bolted between the tranny and t-case utilizing those 6 studs so i dont have a big ol' tall tranny mount underneath fo mo clurrance
 
Yeah I haven't thought much about the crossmember yet, but I would like to do one similar to how a bunch of other people have out of some 2x5 I have.

I'll make some sort of bellypan for that crossmember back to cover the t-case but that's probably about it. I'm not sure I'll bother going in front to cover the trans for a number of reasons.
 
Chris is going to love this. He warned me about it and everything. It's the reason me and Adam were fighting the engine to try and get it over to the passenger side.

IMAG0121.jpg


4.0 has to come back out anyway so it's not a huge deal.

Oh and if anyone wants the bolt hole measurements for the flat plate I used on the block brackets, here they are.

Passenger side
IMAG0127.jpg


Drivers side
IMAG0126.jpg
 
Haha. Thanks Anthony for finding the post I was too lazy to dig up. :D

Not 'buying the kit' for the motor mounts equals quite a bit of test & try again. Quite a few things pop up that you'd never think about just building them.

On the last 'test fit' on mine. I put the new motor back in with the stock brackets so I had at least one "OEM" reference to use while I messed around with the opposite side. It's not as important in your case where you haven't yet built the trans crossmember, but in mine where I built the whole suspension around the stock motor mounts, I had to make sure the pieces I made were OEM-compatible.
 
Chris is going to love this. He warned me about it and everything. It's the reason me and Adam were fighting the engine to try and get it over to the passenger side.

(pic of interference removed)

4.0 has to come back out anyway so it's not a huge deal.

Oh and if anyone wants the bolt hole measurements for the flat plate I used on the block brackets, here they are.

Passenger side
(pic removed)
Drivers side
(pic removed)
So, what does that mean that you have to do to the mounts? I don't think grinding some clearance in would do it, do you?

*Right click, save as...*

Haha. Thanks Anthony for finding the post I was too lazy to dig up. :D
I was actually looking for stuff on doublers over there when I found it. :moon:
 
Cast iron. I would love to see you TRY and break it.
I'd try but I would feel shitty if I actually succeeded and you had to get a new case... got a spare/scrap case of similar thickness and composition around?
 
Haha. Thanks Anthony for finding the post I was too lazy to dig up. :D

Not 'buying the kit' for the motor mounts equals quite a bit of test & try again. Quite a few things pop up that you'd never think about just building them.

On the last 'test fit' on mine. I put the new motor back in with the stock brackets so I had at least one "OEM" reference to use while I messed around with the opposite side. It's not as important in your case where you haven't yet built the trans crossmember, but in mine where I built the whole suspension around the stock motor mounts, I had to make sure the pieces I made were OEM-compatible.

Yeah I double checked the angle of the motor relative to the inner fenders with Adam's XJ for comparison, as well as height and horizontal placement.

Everything is perfect except it needs to slide to the passenger side a bit, which shouldn't be a problem once I grind that tab down.

So, what does that mean that you have to do to the mounts? I don't think grinding some clearance in would do it, do you?

Shouldn't be a problem to cut the lower portion of that tab off and have it clear. I'll double check over the weekend. The next few weeknights I'm going to tear the D20 apart.
 
Started out tonight by cleaning up the factory adapter that goes inbetween the homemade NP435 adapters and the D20. The intermediate shaft ball bearing feels "ok" but I think I'm going to replace it anyway while I'm in there. Can't be too expensive.

IMAG0128.jpg


Then moved on to ripping apart the D20.

IMAG0133.jpg


IMAG0129.jpg


IMAG0130.jpg


Here's the two interlock pins between the rails you have to remove on the T-shift version that I have:

IMAG0131.jpg


And I made an oopsie on the idler shaft:

IMAG0135.jpg


I was driving it with a brass drift but it seemed to have gotten stuck towards the end. Switched to an extension (tard move) and proceeded to break off the piece that gets held down by the retaining tab. No big deal though as Carmelo said he would give me a spare one so all is not lost. I could probably reuse this one as there is still material left that the retaining tab could grab, but why risk it.
 
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Yeah, I'd run that shaft with no worries. Replacing it definitely isn't a bad thing though.

What's the difference between a d18/20 and a 300? The side the front output is on? The strength? Bolt pattern and splines? Always wondered why each is used.
 
What's the difference between a d18/20 and a 300? The side the front output is on? The strength? Bolt pattern and splines? Always wondered why each is used.
Dana 20's are so much stronger than 300's. They put D20's in ford pickups that were made to do work but 300's went in CJ7's. Also, D300's are pass drop. 20's are driver drop. bolt pattern to mount to the transmission is totally different too.

Colin, I'm jealous of how pretty the insides of your case are. I almost vommitted when I opened my 300 for the first time.
 
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Yeah, I'd run that shaft with no worries. Replacing it definitely isn't a bad thing though.

Yeah, I just don't want to risk the idler shaft backing out and destroying the gear set.

What's the difference between a d18/20 and a 300? The side the front output is on? The strength? Bolt pattern and splines? Always wondered why each is used.

Here's some stuff I pulled from Novak's website. Not many people run them since there's no easy way to adapt them to an AW4/AX15, though Advance Adapters does make an adapter to go from an NV3550 to an EB D20. Also, I've only read of a few other people (read 2 or 3) that have swapped NP435s into their XJ/MJs. I'm sure there's more out there but that's all I could find. Making adapters for these seems easy, I just don't have access to the tooling to be able to do it since there are gasket surfaces involved.

Novak Conversions said:
We are often asked our opinions about the strength of the Dana 20. The reader should be aware that these were the transfer cases that were found in the Jeep J4000 one-ton truck, where they perform most admirably. A Model 20 that breaks is usually due to a worn intermediate shaft and bearings, other worn bearings, or from the shock force resulting from an unskilled driver panicking his way through a rock patch. We've yet to see a broken Dana 20 transfer case in our own service, and we find them to be a most outstanding gearbox.

It is nearly remarkable how much power this compact transfer case can transmit and sustain. It is not so rare to see them handling Big Block grade power and deep, compound gearing.

The 10 spline vs. 26 spline shafts show no greater nor less tendency towards breakage, as the shaft diameters (the real measure of strength, not spline count) are very similar. The gearset in the Dana 20 is strong, but unbalanced. The front seat is helical and the rear set is spur cut. When in low range and under extreme torque, the helical gears produce significant side loads against the case. Though breakage is not at all common due to this, it is possible.

We've discussed the Dana 20 case casting with individuals and a couple have mentioned that Dana cast three or four different thicknesses depending on whether they were slated for an HD J Truck, other FSJ, Commando or CJ. We've not seen evidence of this, but will keep our eyes and ears open.

Ford Bronco Model 20
A similar version of the Dana 20 was made for the Ford Bronco. It featured a 2.46:1 Low gear and a driver's side front output shaft. The internals are largely the same as for the Jeep, IH and Chevy versions, but the front mounting pattern is quite different and not compatible with the other popular Dana 20 adapters and transmissions. Of note, it is possible to swap a Bronco sliding gear into the Jeep or IH Dana 20's - along with Model 18 gears - to acheive a 2.46:1 Low.


Dana 20's are so much stronger than 300's. They put D20's in ford pickups that were made to do work but 300's went in CJ7's. Also, D300's are pass drop. 20's are driver drop. bolt pattern to mount to the transmission is totally different too.

I wouldn't say SO much stronger, but I would tend to say they sound pretty strong from stuff I've read on Pirate and from what Carmelo's told me.

Yep, no flip kit for me :D

Colin, I'm jealous of how pretty the insides of your case are. I almost vommitted when I opened my 300 for the first time.

Yeah the previous owner said it was rebuilt 10 years ago but never ran. Every bearing feels mint so I believe him. I'm still going to do all the gaskets/seals though.
 
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Pretty sure Quadratec sells that intermediate shaft if you can't find one...but the one you've got is likely fine, even with that piece broken off.

Getting all those little intermediate rollers back in there is a grand ol' time. :D
 
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