Project Geosynchronous Orbit

Only one minor nitpick - I wouldn't have welded those motor mounts down, being able to pull them makes motors much easier to swap. When we pulled the passenger side one on anthony's jeep we were able to pull the whole drivetrain, starter motor and oil filter included, with no acrobatics and no damage.
 
Only one minor nitpick - I wouldn't have welded those motor mounts down, being able to pull them makes motors much easier to swap. When we pulled the passenger side one on anthony's jeep we were able to pull the whole drivetrain, starter motor and oil filter included, with no acrobatics and no damage.

Thanks but I've never had a problem with those or with the front crossmembers when pulling engines.

I can see the starter getting in the way but it's two bolts minus the wires.
 
Only one minor nitpick - I wouldn't have welded those motor mounts down, being able to pull them makes motors much easier to swap. When we pulled the passenger side one on anthony's jeep we were able to pull the whole drivetrain, starter motor and oil filter included, with no acrobatics and no damage.
i pulled the whole drivetrain in the blue jeep with those still in place by myself, we did the same in colins jeep you and anthony need to spend the extra 5 seconds here and there and look at thing before you cut and unbolt random shit
 
I'm not saying its impossible without doing it. I've pulled four 4.0s now, two on jackstands and two with axles. Under the vehicle. The crossmember would have stayed had he not felt like cutting it out (mine \-\0 and the motor mount was easy to unbolt.
 
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What's cooler than twin sticks? No sticks, and a screwdriver in the glovebox.
 
Drivetrain is in for the last time (hopefully :rolleyes:)

Whoever machined the flywheel I purchased new the first time, drilled the bolt holes wrong that secure it to the crank. Ran over to advanced to grab a new one and will return that one tomorrow.

Made a new indexing pin for the D20 as well. Chopped a grade 8 bolt down and drilled another 1/2" hole in both the adapter and the t-case. Should be all set now.

Bolted everything together and dropped it in. New clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, hardware, etc. etc.

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Here's what it looks like now after clocking the D20...

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And just for ****s and giggles, I threw in my winch to see how close the clearances were to my harmonic balancer. Plenty of room :D

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On another note, I tried mocking up the bracket for my slave cylinder kit I bought from Novak. Seems like it won't work for me as the bracket hits the floor. I'll probably just end up modifying it to make it work.

This week I'll start working on the mid-rail stiffeners (3x3x.188" angle iron) and start the crossmember.
 
ill sugust gettin the 60 mocked up so you can check for floor and ds clearence
 
Yeah I rolled a tire over and this is sitting at beyond full bump, as the tire goes beyond the inner fender opening.

I don't think I'll have a problem.
 
Re: the flywheel. You know that the bolt pattern isn't symmetrical, right? There's at least one offset hole so you can only bolt it up one way, so the crankshaft position sensor notches correspond to the proper spots in the crank rotation.

If you returned it because you didn't have it lined up right, and just got lucky and lined the replacement one up right on the first try, I'm gonna have a small laugh at your expense. :dunce:
 
Re: the flywheel. You know that the bolt pattern isn't symmetrical, right? There's at least one offset hole so you can only bolt it up one way, so the crankshaft position sensor notches correspond to the proper spots in the crank rotation.

If you returned it because you didn't have it lined up right, and just got lucky and lined the replacement one up right on the first try, I'm gonna have a small laugh at your expense. :dunce:

:laugh: Yeah I know the bolt holes aren't symmetrical. I should have taken a picture, the holes were like 1/16" off when in the right spots. I used the old flexplate shim (my 4.0 was an automatic) as a template on the new flywheel to make sure I wasn't being retarded.
 
Like I sad to you the other day Colin, I think you should change that harmonic balancer. It looked like outer ring was separating from the rubber isolator, and it was beginning to move towards the timing chain cover.
 
I think you should build some frame stiffeys instead. Then a crossmember. Then axles. Then fuel and brakes. Then interior. Then wiring. Then traction bar. Then front digs. Then wheel it. Then look at the harmonic balancer after 6 months of beating on it and see that it looks exactly the same. Then call Mark and laugh at him.
 
I think you should build some frame stiffeys instead. Then a crossmember. Then axles. Then fuel and brakes. Then interior. Then wiring. Then traction bar. Then front digs. Then wheel it. Then look at the harmonic balancer after 6 months of beating on it and see that it looks exactly the same. Then call Mark and laugh at him.

I would just make fun of him now.
 
Didn't get much done this past week. Hit a curb with my '01 CTD and bent the spindle on the rear D80/D70 hybrid (80 center section, 70 outers). Lame :(

Cleaned up some stuff with the help of Adam (again...I'm gonna owe him a bunch when his build comes :laugh:).

D35 is out along with other misc crap that was hanging around.

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Tried turning the studs out of the nutcerts, but broke one of them. Drivers side all three are nice (I'll drill/tap to 1/2-13) and both bolt and stud are broken off on the pass side. I want to drill/tap the stock nutcerts because this will make it easier to square off the crossmember and build the stiffeners. AKA I'm lazy.
 
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Drove all the way to NH for a Dodge rear D60 instead of a D80. I hate dumbasses.

Came back and decided to at least be productive since I couldn't do anything about my truck.

Driver side stiffener 80% done
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H2 with rock ring mocked up
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Got someone who's going to weld up the rock rings. No idea when progress will be made again since I need to get my truck back on the road ASAP.
 
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