Project Geosynchronous Orbit

I believe it took you half a day to do so.

:D

I believe it took my ONE wheel to do so though :D









I also had to watch over some special people trying to use power tools.....


e1btl3.jpg









You better be nice too if you want me to knock out some d-rings tabs for you. Your torch wont even come close to how nicely I can cut them!! :firedevil:
 
Guess you're not getting motor mount brackets little girl

:laugh3:

My block has gusseted bosses .!.:D.!.


I'll just get my plate elsewhere :D Everything you get is covered in rust anyway haha

:shhh: Only your truss material I left outside and that piece of 2x5 I found laying around
 
And the whole 5/16 plate, and spots on the 1/8 plate...

Either way it was cheap so I can't complain.

I just don't plan on getting tube from that guy because it will ruin dies.
 
And the whole 5/16 plate, and spots on the 1/8 plate...


I just don't plan on getting tube from that guy because it will ruin dies.

Really? Mine are all clean and nice. :dunno:



The tubing would have to be ordered from his supplier anyways so that'll all be fresh. I might use Bill's source since they'll deleiver it for free since we're getting a large order.
 
I got a Milwaukee circular saw with an abrasive blade on it. Take all of the base stuff off and flip it over so it pulls away from you. 15 amps cuts 1/2"+ really well :thumbup:
 
Got the motor mount brackets 90% done today.

IMAG0102.jpg


Bolted them to the engine and dropped it in with the help of Adam.

:D

IMAG0104.jpg


Dropped right in :D

IMAG0105.jpg


IMAG0106.jpg


Also took the oil pan off to fix the stupid toggle bolt someone put on. Guess what we found? The factory threads were still mint. $2 trip to Autozone and a new pan bolt threaded right in. Didn't look too bad inside for an engine with 205k on it. Threw in some new oil and a filter while I was at it. I'll get a cap/rotor/plugs for it tomorrow as well.

IMAG0107.jpg


Tomorrow I'll finish up boxing them in and add a few gussets/spacers. Then I'll bolt the NP435 to the back of the 4.0, drop that in, rip the dash out, and cut the floor out for the shift tower, and finish welding in the frame side motor mounts.

I'm hoping to have the 4.0/NP435 all set by tomorrow night, that way I can work on twin sticking the D20 during next week (no homework due Friday :D) and bolt that in as well.
 
Last edited:
Also took the oil pan off to fix the stupid toggle bolt someone put on. Guess what we found? The factory threads were still mint.

If someone did that to my car I would punch them square in the face. You put in the most annoying hack drainage plug fix onto my oil pan and the threads aren't even stripped!? That would make me more mad than having to replace an oil pan, just imagining how dumb the person was that was doing that oil change.
 
Adam came over again today and gave me a hand getting the NP435 bolted to the 4.0 and in the MJ.

IMAG0112.jpg


Stripped the interior to make room for the shift tower since it's freakin tall as hell.

IMAG0110.jpg


Some cutting here and there and it's in. Rough torch cuts just to get an idea...

IMAG0118.jpg


IMAG0116.jpg


And from below...

IMAG0120.jpg


So you can see in the second to last picture how tall the tower is. The shifter would interfere directly with the HVAC unit. I'm going to take the lower box off and see if I can block off the floor vents.

Also, as it sits right now, the NP435 wants to move up a couple inches, but the firewall prevents that. I'm going to double check my motor mount measurements to see if I didn't mess that up, and short of that, I'm hacking into the firewall abit.

I'll do some more work during the week.
 
Wow. That transmission looks new now.

I hope it has a really thick bottom on that case...
 
holy tall.

how much is it gonna hang below the frame?

As of right now it hangs down a little over an inch, but it's going to be tucked up more since I think the engine is tilted down at the rear. I have to double check some measurements and see what's going on.

Wow. That transmission looks new now.

I hope it has a really thick bottom on that case...

Thanks. Every bearing/synchro/seal is new on it so it should last a long time.

The thinnest part of the case I would guess at 3/8", and thats on one of the sides. The bottom seems like just under 1/2" thick, except where the drain plug is.

I wouldn't be afraid of the case cracking from dropping down on a rock :laugh:
 
Back
Top