Project: Freak of Nature

Took the Jeep for it's first drive around the neighborhood this evening. Did ok just a few things to address. The 9" disk brake brackets and calipers are rubbing on the rims. Gonna take the grinder to it tomorrow to see if I can make a little room.

Gonna bleed brakes again to see if I can get a better pedal out of it. It does stop but there really is no feel to the pedal and it will barely hold it when in 4 low. Anybody know if I need to do anything to proportioning valve? Think I may eventually swap out to different master cylinder.

Also need to look at steering. This thing has turning radius of a freight train. I'm still running the factory xj pitman. Anybody got any ideas or recommendations to get a little more turning out of it?
 
sounds like youll want a longer pitman arm. i run a waggy arm, but youll want high steer on the knuckle for at least the drag link for that.


i run the dodge 2500 master cylinder with the stock 97 proportioning valve and booster. pedal is right off the top. maybe i understand the idea behind modifying the proportioning valve wrong... but it seems everyone modifies it when they add rear disks, to get more fluid to the rear. my rears lock up fine, last think i need is more force in the rear. stock proportioning valve for me. chevy 1/2 top calipers front and rear.
 
Jeepguy91 said:
Gonna bleed brakes again to see if I can get a better pedal out of it. It does stop but there really is no feel to the pedal and it will barely hold it when in 4 low. Anybody know if I need to do anything to proportioning valve? Think I may eventually swap out to different master cylinder.
Click to expand...

Change the proportioning valve internals to ZJ disc guts. right now you are setup for disk/drum, ZJ is disc/disc. You are going to need to move more brake fluid for calipers so either a 1.1625" master cylinder or 1.25"

I have 1.1625" dakota/durango and it is okay with the Grand wagoneer/elderado caliper setup. I am thinking about going to the dodge 2500 master cylinder.
 
VAhasnoWAVES said:
so does the ZJ stuff bias towards or away from the rear brakes...
Click to expand...

my understanding is towards the rear. Wheel cylinders take less volume then calipers so you want to move more fluid to the rear when changing to disc rear.

Increasing master cylinder bore size and the ZJ prop valve SHOULD give better brakes and pedal then the stock disc/drum proportional valve and 1" stock MC when using disc/disc
 
I ran a xj 98 set up on firewall and never had issues w 44 and 9" or 60 and 14b. Peddle did have more travel but would still lock up tires. Discs on both setups.
 
vt98xj said:
my understanding is towards the rear. Wheel cylinders take less volume then calipers so you want to move more fluid to the rear when changing to disc rear.

Increasing master cylinder bore size and the ZJ prop valve SHOULD give better brakes and pedal then the stock disc/drum proportional valve and 1" stock MC when using disc/disc
Click to expand...

that is my understanding as well.

with chevy 1/2 ton brakes on all 4 corners, stock ('97) booster and proportioning valve, and dodge 2500 MC... my rears still lock up before the front. i wouldnt want more bias towards the rear.

BRIANHO13 said:
I ran a xj 98 set up on firewall and never had issues w 44 and 9" or 60 and 14b. Peddle did have more travel but would still lock up tires. Discs on both setups.
Click to expand...

i agree, plenty of power in the stock setup from that era. all the larger master does is simply moves more fluid. which will bring the right off the top. you wont get "better" braking, just a different feel.
 
I had no issues with the stock master cylinder in my 95 stopping D60 brakes up front and chevy 1/2 ton brakes in the back on the popcan.

mac 'i mean it wasn't a sports car...but...it would hold it in 4l with the atlas' gyvr
 
Well I bled the brakes again last night. Got a little better. The only thing I guess I don't care for is how soft the pedal is. I wish it was a little stiffer but that might be personal preference. Taking it out this weekend so will see how it does then. May look into changing the proportioning valve to see if that helps any.
 
Jeepguy91 said:
Well I bled the brakes again last night. Got a little better. The only thing I guess I don't care for is how soft the pedal is. I wish it was a little stiffer but that might be personal preference. Taking it out this weekend so will see how it does then. May look into changing the proportioning valve to see if that helps any.
Click to expand...
that will change the distribution of fluid between the front and rear, not change the volume of fluid you are moving. if you want a more firm pedal that is right off the top, you want a master with a larger bore. the issue is fluid displacement, not distribution.
 
Well jeep did decent this past weekend for its first trail ride. Didn't hit anything to hard to just seeing what needs worked on a bit. Got a couple small things to address but it all seemed to work pretty good.

Which brings me to my next problem. It needs a front locker for it. Right now its just open. Yea i probably wasted money getting it geared open but at the time its what was feasible. More i think about it more i want a selectable locker in it but also having to save up for/come up with funds to buy one is another thing. Has anybody ever ran or have insight on the Yukon grizzly locker? From what i can tell its pretty much the same as the detroit locker. Found a used one on ebay for cheap that im thinking of picking up. Now, with the ring and pinion and install kit only having maybe 5-10 miles on them, am i still looking at having to buy new ring and pinion and install kit to put this locker in or would i be able to reuse what i have since they are like new?
 
I ran a Detroit in my 44 before the zip. Never had an issue but hearing they grenade usually after a good shaft break kinda made me worry. At least you'll only have to set backlash when you install though.
 
I guess I didn't read your whole post.
You won't need to get anything but the locker. They come with new carrier bearing and side shims (mine did at lease) then all you have to do is set backlash which is easy if you have the time and tools. You'll need a press and dial indicator. A bearing remover is handy for this too if you don't have set up bearings. Set up bearings are pretty easy to make with a dermal though.
 
lunchbox is a cheap option, the grizzly is obviously stronger.
ive seen it torn down side by side with a detroit and there are very, VERY small differences.

i always vote detroit/spool front, selectable rear if you have locking hubs. gives you good street manners and the ability to run cutting brakes. with hydro assist... i never unlock my ox offroad. it turns just fine. point the wheels and hit the loud pedal.

congrats on the shake down, its a good feeling isnt it?
 
Well this grizzly is used. Only reason im looking at it is because the "Buy it Now" price is $150 with free shipping.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

P
1999 XJ is getting the best of me. No Start.
Replies
13
Views
277
Anak
Anak
PacificEd
Just like old times
Replies
1
Views
390
RCP Phx
R
P
ARB bumper question
Replies
3
Views
215
Paradiddle
P
M
March Membership Drive 2025
Replies
11
Views
145
MEMBERSHIP
M
A
1996 XJ won't engage when shifted into P/R
Replies
8
Views
256
Rob Mayercik
R
Back
Top