Powertrax no-slip installation

[Rod Knee]

My no-slip arrived the other day and I’m getting ready to do the installation. My XJ is a “96 with the C8.25 axle into which the locker is to be installed. I have the stock 3.55 gears and presumably 27 spline since the build date is Fall of “95. I’ll verify the spline count before going very far into the installation. I’m just wondering if there are any subtle nuances to the installation that I don’t know about before I get started.

One thing that is not super clear in the directions is how far out the passenger side axle shaft should be pulled out prior to placement of the couplers. It says six inches but that seems like it would take the shaft completely out of the diff housing. I have to assume that the key point is to pull it out far enough that it is out of the way but not so far that the coupler cannot be slid onto its spline end. Does that sound about right?

Also, I see regearing in the future. Would it be better for any reason to regear from the stock 3.55 to 4.10 or 4.56 ratio before putting the locker in?

Anything else I should know that may not be apparent from going over the directions?

 

[FlexdXJ]

My no-slip arrived the other day and I’m getting ready to do the installation. My XJ is a “96 with the C8.25 axle into which the locker is to be installed. I have the stock 3.55 gears and presumably 27 spline since the build date is Fall of “95. I’ll verify the spline count before going very far into the installation. I’m just wondering if there are any subtle nuances to the installation that I don’t know about before I get started.

One thing that is not super clear in the directions is how far out the passenger side axle shaft should be pulled out prior to placement of the couplers. It says six inches but that seems like it would take the shaft completely out of the diff housing. I have to assume that the key point is to pull it out far enough that it is out of the way but not so far that the coupler cannot be slid onto its spline end. Does that sound about right?

Also, I see regearing in the future. Would it be better for any reason to regear from the stock 3.55 to 4.10 or 4.56 ratio before putting the locker in?

Anything else I should know that may not be apparent from going over the directions?

Since its not a full case locker requiring you to set up the gears for the install, no it really wont matter unless you just want to get the regear over with while you're in there.

 

[Hoooper]

I have to assume that the key point is to pull it out far enough that it is out of the way but not so far that the coupler cannot be slid onto its spline end. Does that sound about right?

no. you want the shaft far enough out that you can slide the coupler into the housing completely without engaging the splines, it will be much easier this way.

one thing to note, make sure you put in the half of the locker that doesnt have the c-clip clot first, then the c-clip, then start with the other half. otherwise youll be taking it back apart shortly thereafter

 

[Frank Z]

The locker installation is pretty straight forward, but I do have 1 suggestion for anyone installing one. I'm sure we've all read horror stories about folks not being able to remove the passenger side C-Clip, here's the fix.

Deburr the C-clip that is to be used on the passenger side before installing the locker. Check the fit through the slot and if there is ANY interference file the outer edge at the top and bottom of the "C" until there is none at all.

Doing so will make disassembly a lot easier, the c-clip will simply fall out the way it's supposed to.

 

[O-Gauge Steamer]

^^What Frank said...

When I installed mine in the 97, I used a few dabs on light grease to hold the parts together during installation. If I remember right, it is suggested in the instrustions. It is a better than good idea. I used assembly grease as it disolves readily. Also, there is a measurement you need to take (documented in the instructions), make sure the gap is in the range or it will not work properly. If the gap is too tight, it will not unlock, if too wide, it will not relock.

I used brake cleaner to remove as much of the grease as I could after the cross pin was reinstalled. The instructions have you testing the locker prior to buttoning the diff up to make sure it unlocks/relocks properly. Do not skip this step... The grease will need to be gone for the test to work as it should.

I enjoyed the performance in the 97 and will, most likely, install one in the 98 once I am at that point in the build. Would I prefer a selectable? You betcha! Can I afford a selectable? Nope... Social Security only goes so far...

Just my .02!!

 

[RCP Phx]

The locker installation is pretty straight forward, but I do have 1 suggestion for anyone installing one. I'm sure we've all read horror stories about folks not being able to remove the passenger side C-Clip, here's the fix.

Deburr the C-clip that is to be used on the passenger side before installing the locker. Check the fit through the slot and if there is ANY interference file the outer edge at the top and bottom of the "C" until there is none at all.

Doing so will make disassembly a lot easier, the c-clip will simply fall out the way it's supposed to.

X3,plus check that the c-clips fit easily down into the side gears(diameter).

 

[Rod Knee]

Well, the locker went in today. The installation was trickier than I thought it would be.

Main problem was that both spacers and both drivers were slotted, and I still don't know if that is the way its supposed to be, or what. At any rate, that wasn't the impression I had had from going through the directions. I could not install the locker with the paddle on the ring gear side facing toward the back of the diff case and the paddle on the passenger side nearest me, so I had to install the drivers just the opposite of the instructions. After I had finally gotten both sides of the locker into the carrier I noticed my ring gear side c-clip had somehow fallen out, so I just put it back into place using the slots that were'nt supposed to be there.

Then the pin did not want to go in. Installation took me twice as long as it was supposed to, but that doesn't suprise me. But its in now and passed the tire rotation test. Drove around town to see if my entire rear end would fall off or something but it seems fine. Even hear some ratcheting around corners or in parking lots when turning.

Thanks to everyone for the tips.

 

[Rod Knee]

Went out and tried my locker on a gravel parking lot today...left two parallel peel out lines in the gravel. Locker is getting more invisible driving in town just in a day's driving around.

Just in case someone researching ends up with both drivers and both spacers slotted, just install with the widest gap in the synchros and the paddle in the spacer towards you on the ring gear side, away from you on the passenger side. Doing it this way is opposite the instructions, but it is the only way to do the installation.

Also I've included a relevant thread link that helped me, and a link to a Chevy forum were someone descibes the same predicament I found myself in.



http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1013246

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=328066

 

[Hoooper]

^^^ thats the direction that my directions said to do it. supposedly all the new no-slips have slots on both sides so thats not a big deal, just makes things easier

 

[Rod Knee]

One other thing...I got my ratchet stuck between the center pin and a protrusion on the carrier when ratcheting out the bolt that holds the center pin in place. It took about half hour to get it cleared because I couldn't reverse the ratcheting direction. I eneded up removing the handle from the ratchet to get the ratchet/socket out.

This is one job where you might want to just leave the ratchet in the tool drawer and use a good old fashioned box wrench...

 

[Hoooper]

was this when tightening the center pin retaining bolt? thats tough to get at anyway, definitely a box wrench job

 

[Rod Knee]

Well, fast forward one weekend and my PT no-slip isn't working for @#$% now. I'm only getting spin to the driver's side in all situations, even when I do a peel out on loose gravel. Put the rear end up on floor jacks and got a fail on the tire rotation test. Passenger side axle just will not engage at all.

Does any of this sound familiar to anyone? Only thing I can think of is one or both sets of the side springs came unseated. I'm looking for suggestions as to what course of action to take before I drain the diff and open it up again.

 

[Frank Z]

Then the pin did not want to go in.

This tells me that you did not may have had the slots properly lined up. When you forced the pin (there should be slight resistance) you probably broke the paddle(s) off one or both active spacers.

Been there, done that...
Got the tee shirt, workin' on the hat.

 

[whitexj98]

Did you check the clearances with the go- no go piece they supply?

 

[Rod Knee]

Did you check the clearances with the go- no go piece they supply?

Yes. The gap between drivers was wide enough to insert the narrow side of the check block but too narrow to insert the wide side of the block.

 

[lilredxj99]

frankz is right, something was out of place. broke the ear and now no lock... I think I ordered replacements from ____ (not jeg's the other race catalog). They're about 18-20 a piece. And if you didn't debur the c-clip, it'll take about 2 hours to get apart... I broke the ear and didn't de bur the c-clip and was ready to cut the locker out w/ a torch.

 

[Rod Knee]

This tells me that you did not may have had the slots properly lined up. When you forced the pin (there should be slight resistance) you probably broke the paddle(s) off one or both active spacers.

Been there, done that...
Got the tee shirt, workin' on the hat.

I've actually been thinking about that possibility. I did give the center pin supplied by Powertrax a few taps with a hammer. I could not get it to go all the way into position. So then just for the heck of it I tried the open diff's original center pin and it went right in. I had examined and compared the two pins before I put the original pin in and they appeared identical. I'm now wondering if my assumption about the interchangeability of the two pins was correct. IOW, I'm wondering if the original C8.25 pin is just a hair too slender to work with the locker. That consideration may be mute, however since I may very well have broken a paddle as you suggest.

I'm going to sleep on it for a few days and see what other input I get. I'll be calling Poewrtrax on Monday. I have other things to do besides repeatedly draining gear oil out of my diff.

 

[Rod Knee]

This jeep is a DD. Is there any reason I shouldn't be driving short neccesary distances until the problem is resolved?

I suppose I could remove the rear drive shaft and drive around in 4 High...

 

[whitexj98]

I wouldnt drive on it, even with the drive shaft out you will be spinning everything. Just drain it and take a look.

 

[Rod Knee]

frankz is right, something was out of place. broke the ear and now no lock... I think I ordered replacements from ____ (not jeg's the other race catalog). They're about 18-20 a piece. And if you didn't debur the c-clip, it'll take about 2 hours to get apart... I broke the ear and didn't de bur the c-clip and was ready to cut the locker out w/ a torch.

I didn't do much fililing of the C-clip because it just dropped into place. So I'm not too worried about it being lodged in there. I'm a little concerned that all the grease I used might prevent it from dropping out. First thing I'll do if I have trouble is spray brake cleaner in the slot.