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Poly Tranny mounts

Daystar poly motor and trany and wouldn't go any other way. The motor mount vibes will go away, the trany mount vibes will not. My 94 was much worse than the 96 FWIW.
 
I paid $21 for my aw4 mount at autozone.

The expensive one is the ba10 mount.
 
Has anyone tried these mounts? You can't build a pair of them yourself for much less.

I just installed the Super kit from Brown Dog and I couldn't be happier. It was a PITA to tear everything apart and do the install (did motor mounts and headers at the same time) but the final product is so worth it. My entire XJ used to used to "adjust" itself every time I put the transmission in gear or shifted from drive to reverse. By adjust I mean it felt like the entire engine would move an inch or two up or down depending on what gear I put it in and the whole vehicle would torque and twist. It was really annoying. Put in the Brown Dogs and everything is solid now. I used the poly bushings and I get some slight engine vibes at idle but I totally dig it. Nowhere near bad enough for it to be bothersome. I think its pretty cool actually. I will probably run a poly trans mount pretty soon too.
 
Swamp, I'm gonna be getting the super kit here soon. Any tips ok the install? I think I got motor mount install down not so sure about the engine brackets though.
 
Swamp, I'm gonna be getting the super kit here soon. Any tips ok the install? I think I got motor mount install down not so sure about the engine brackets though.

Not terribly difficult. You are going to need either an engine hoist or a good floor jack with some 2x6's under the oil pan. (I used the floor jack) It is going to require quite a bit of adjusting the engine with the jack to get to all the bolts and wedge the brackets out and back in. You have to lift the engine HIGH to get everything in and out. I actually removed everything frome the frame mount side (frame bracket and track bar mount which was a royal PITA) because I could not get the stock engine bracket to wedge it's way out between the block and that frame side bracket. Some people suggest unbolting the tranny mount so the engine can move more freely but I didn't bother. It is a good idea to use a tap and die set to clean out all the threads in the block to make sure the new bolts go in without cross-threading and making your life miserable. Especially for the bolts that were never used in the stock set-up. Mine were full of nasty crud.

When you bolt everything back up, you will spend a good amount of time lifting up the jack, dropping it down, lifting it back up, so on and so forth to get just the right angle so that the brackets will line up correctly so you can put the main bolt through the motor mount. (I actually had to use a scissor jack between the firewall and engine bracket to adjust the engine enough for the brackets to line up and feed the bolt through) It's mainly just time consuming and you need to have patience. LOTS of patience) Oh, and make sure you use a good amount of PB blaster on everything before you try to unbolt the stock brackets. The bolts like to fuse themselves into the block after 10 or so years of abuse.

I would almost recommend you swap your headeers out at the same time. I can't image how freakin hard it would have been if everything was still bolted up. I unplugged all the wiring harnesses, removed the intake/exhaust manifold, unbolted the power steering pump, air intake, vacuum lines and main fuel line so the I had a clear area to work in and it still sucked. I spent a lot of time sitting on the drivers side quarter panel with my feet on the wheel well/air-box area.

OH! and take pictures of everything before you start tearing it all apart that way if you forget where things go when you start to put it back together again, you can review your digital pictures for reference. That helped me a ton.

Here is a link to a local forum where I did a mini walkthrough with pictures or the whole ordeal.

Hope this helps
 
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