Over the knuckle steering upgrade ?'s

[Goatman]

Here's a pic of my old D30 setup. It's inverted Y and worked very well. You can see that I used some spacers to make it 1" higher than the knuckle.

Here's my D44 setup. I made the piece on the pass side that the drag link attaches to, which allows the toe to be set without removing the drag link. I later found a very cool adjuster sleeve that QA1 makes, which makes it very easy to build a tie rod that can be adjusted. The adjuster sleeve goes on the drivers side right next to the knuckle.

QA1 double adjuster

 

[Gojeep]

I did this style:

I can't post a pic of MY setup (i'm at work) used 1 tone TRE's had to retaper both knuckles from the top and deepen the taper on the pitman arm. Had to relocate the sway bar links. Also you'll need to have deeper backspaced wheels. Factory wheels won't work. 4.5" should be plenty though to clear.

Got my links built by Tim Shaker at http://www.shakerbuilt.com

he should already have the lengths etc for a lifted XJ setup.

Is is just the angle of the photo or did you not raise the trackbar the same amount? They dont look parallel anymore?

 

[NCSUcherokee]

do any of you guys running these type of setups, expecially using heim joints, live in inspection states?

i have failed an inspection or two because my steering had to much play in it. it would seem like i might have a problem with that using heim ends...

 

[xj4rocks]

Is is just the angle of the photo or did you not raise the trackbar the same amount? They dont look parallel anymore?

Not my picture. Just a similar setup. On My setup i'm using a WJ trackbar (not shown in this pic) from Kevin and the draglink angle and trackbar angle are pretty close. I did the trackbar conversion after this photo was taken. No bump steer at my house.

Here's my setup.

 

[ChiXJeff]

Here's my D44 setup. I made the piece on the pass side that the drag link attaches to, which allows the toe to be set without removing the drag link. I later found a very cool adjuster sleeve that QA1 makes, which makes it very easy to build a tie rod that can be adjusted. The adjuster sleeve goes on the drivers side right next to the knuckle.

QA1 double adjuster

Talk about good timing..... It finally struck me a few days ago that this is what I should do to fix the bump steer I've got.

I'm a little confused, though. The QA1 double adjuster goes on the driver's side, and that's where you adjust the tierod length. That's no problem.

On the passenger side, though, you've got the tabs welding on to a chunk of DOM, with threaded rod on both sides. Why? Wouldn't it have been easier and faster to just weld the tabs on a long piece of DOM?

 

[GPRSDLYT]

hey guys, im not meaning to hi jack a thread here but a quick ques if you dont mind......
when using a knuckle to knucle tie rod or otk of how ever its called, why mess with the track bar? does it get in the way a full lock?
thx
-g

 

[NCSUcherokee]

the track bar and the drag link must be parallel to each other. if not you will run into problems such as bump steer and such.

 

[ChiXJeff]

the track bar and the drag link must be parallel to each other. if not you will run into problems such as bump steer and such.

Not only do they need to be parallel, they need to be the same length as well.

 

[Goatman]

Talk about good timing..... It finally struck me a few days ago that this is what I should do to fix the bump steer I've got.

I'm a little confused, though. The QA1 double adjuster goes on the driver's side, and that's where you adjust the tierod length. That's no problem.

On the passenger side, though, you've got the tabs welding on to a chunk of DOM, with threaded rod on both sides. Why? Wouldn't it have been easier and faster to just weld the tabs on a long piece of DOM?

Jeff, I made mine before I found the QA1 double adjuster, so I'm not using one. I adjust the toe by turning the tie rod.

 

[ChiXJeff]

Jeff, I made mine before I found the QA1 double adjuster, so I'm not using one. I adjust the toe by turning the tie rod.

Oops....... guess I can't read today!

 

[Gojeep]

Not my picture. Just a similar setup. On My setup i'm using a WJ trackbar (not shown in this pic) from Kevin and the draglink angle and trackbar angle are pretty close. I did the trackbar conversion after this photo was taken. No bump steer at my house.

Here's my setup.

Fair enough as I think who owns the one you posted would have bumpsteer dont you agree?
BTW, what is the difference with the WJ one compared to the XJ one?

 

[ChiXJeff]

Here's my D44 setup. I made the piece on the pass side that the drag link attaches to, which allows the toe to be set without removing the drag link. I later found a very cool adjuster sleeve that QA1 makes, which makes it very easy to build a tie rod that can be adjusted. The adjuster sleeve goes on the drivers side right next to the knuckle.

QA1 double adjuster

Got another ? for anybody running this style of steering.

Do you have any problems with the tierod rotating forward or back when the steering or suspension cycles? I'd kind of expect the draglink/tabs would want to rotate forward in a right turn, and rotate backwards in a left.

 

[xj4rocks]

Fair enough as I think who owns the one you posted would have bumpsteer dont you agree?
BTW, what is the difference with the WJ one compared to the XJ one?

The JKS XJ trackbar mount at the frame end is a bolt in teh vertical direction in a johnny joint. (limited range of motion as the axle travels down)

The WJ tracbar has a bolt mounted horizontally so there is no restriction of movement in the up/down direction (if you ignore axle twist for the moment)

This is the kit i have. It's a pic from Kevin's Jeep Parts page. If you look at the frame end vs the frame end of the trackbar in my pic above you'll see the difference.
http://www.kevinsjeepparts.com/

To answer the other question, I have had a little bit of rotating but not enough to cause additional play in steering. you can see it moving if you watch it but don't feel it turning over.

 

[MC-92]

Has anyone ever tried one of these ????

"This is a bracket for the right knuckle of a Dana 30 front in a YJ. This corrects steering geometry after doing a spring over lift." Steering knuckle

I wonder if it would work on an XJ ???? What would be the difference???

 

[ChiXJeff]

To answer the other question, I have had a little bit of rotating but not enough to cause additional play in steering. you can see it moving if you watch it but don't feel it turning over.

Cool...... that's what I'm looking for.

 

[xman]

Just did a over the knuckle steering on a Dana HP Dana 30 but having some difficulty with the tie rod hitting the passenger side and driver side spring preach and not getting full extension, losing about 1.25 of travel before it hits the bump stop. Has anyone experience this? I would like to have full steering travel from left to right.

Will Dana 44 knuckles fit a Dana 30 HP and then add a HI steer with longer arms to clear the spring preaches.

Could bend the tie rod to clear both preaches, but don’t think it’s a good idea of putting a bend in the tie rod.

Thanks,

Dean

 

[Cruzzin_XJ]

I was told tonight that the High Steer Dana 44 will not fit a HP 30, only low pinion 30
call me to discuss
J

Just did a over the knuckle steering on a Dana HP Dana 30 but having some difficulty with the tie rod hitting the passenger side and driver side spring preach and not getting full extension, losing about 1.25 of travel before it hits the bump stop. Has anyone experience this? I would like to have full steering travel from left to right.

Will Dana 44 knuckles fit a Dana 30 HP and then add a HI steer with longer arms to clear the spring preaches.

Could bend the tie rod to clear both preaches, but don’t think it’s a good idea of putting a bend in the tie rod.

Thanks,

Dean

 

[JnJ]

Not only do they need to be parallel, they need to be the same length as well.

Though ideal, that is seldom feasible. Look at the number of people running highsteer with the drablink connecting to the knuckle, there is no way to run the track bar that far over. Also, as you turn, the draglinks location moves but the trackbar does not.
I think if being practical, you want the track bar parallel to the draglink and as long as feasible.

 

[ChiXJeff]

Though ideal, that is seldom feasible. Look at the number of people running highsteer with the drablink connecting to the knuckle, there is no way to run the track bar that far over. Also, as you turn, the draglinks location moves but the trackbar does not.
I think if being practical, you want the track bar parallel to the draglink and as long as feasible.

It's going to be feasible for me, but I've got an exaggerated situation, trackbar is 28" long and the draglink is 36" and they're both parallel. I'll be shortening the draglink and attaching it to the top of the tierod.

I drove back from north central WI today in a high crosswind. It was a handful as the XJ wanted to swerve left and right, depending on what the body roll at that particular instant.

ChiXJeff

 

[JnJ]

Wont shortening the draglink change it's angle?