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over the knuckle steering question......

As long as you get the correct reamer for the job it's not bad at all. Reamers can be a little pricey though.

Tapered inserts are defiantly cheaper and don't require you to purchase an expensive tool that you'll only use maybe once.

Goferit sells the inserts you would need, all you need to do is drill out the knuckle then weld the insert in. I've seen plenty of people use the inserts with no problems, I wish I would have gone that route instead of using the reamer.

http://www.goferitoffroad.com/products.htm
 
I'm doing WJ swap, and used inserts. Plenty of meat around the hole. But that isn't an XJ knuckle either
 
So I did some more research and it seems that once I find a solution that fits my price, needs, ect I read reviews about that product and my solution goes poof. So far I found everyone is a fan of the Currie set-up but it's just to much to spend right now. I was thinking about doing the rugged ridge HD set-up but it has problems with the dead spot. I am still considering the serious 1 ton set-up but I'm hesitant about reaming the knuckles or making extra work for myself. The last option was doing the ZJ upgrade. The more I think about it I think doing the ZJ upgrade will be the best for what I use the Jeep for and cost comparison. I'm still going to do a little bit more dinking around but that's where I'm at so far. Thanks again for all the input
 
Another option was also considering is just doing the IRO HD tie rod with new TRE's and their double shear track bar. Price wise it's where i want to be and I feel it would be a nice upgrade over stock or the ZJ set-up......
 
I think you're making this more complicated than it needs to be, just get a double shear adjustable track bar and a zj tie rod and be done. That there is plenty enough for your rig and then some.
 
Demoind369 I agree, but part of it is there are so many dang options I just want to be able to fix it and be done. I hate buying something only to find out it sucks and then having to replace it.
 
Just go to a junk yard and pull a zj tie rod, replace the tie rod end with new one and be good, hundred have and still use the zj tie rod including me and its stout. Google searching that would show it
I can't say much about track bars as I have a rugged ridge double shear and I've had no issues but you don't read much on theirs.
 
Demoind369 I agree, but part of it is there are so many dang options I just want to be able to fix it and be done. I hate buying something only to find out it sucks and then having to replace it.

many places offer a lifetime warranty on the ZJ tie rod.

i always bend mine well before it ever goes bad, but replacements have always been free... which is why i have been procrastinating upgrading to DOM.
 
Makapo, I had looked at the crown upgrade also and like the idea. I also think price wise it's cheaper than going to a junkyard and having to replace the TRE's and such. You can also check rockatuo, as their prices are super cheap. I just don't know if they have Crown products, but I know they have replacement tie rod systems. VAhasnowaves, you present a damn good point about the warranty.
 
Makapo, I had looked at the crown upgrade also and like the idea. I also think price wise it's cheaper than going to a junkyard and having to replace the TRE's and such. You can also check rockatuo, as their prices are super cheap. I just don't know if they have Crown products, but I know they have replacement tie rod systems. VAhasnowaves, you present a damn good point about the warranty.

factory TREs can also be found sporting a lifetime warranty. youll pick up an HD tie rod and factory rod ends for the same price, if not cheaper, than a ZJ one, the adjuster, and corresponding TRE.

i second whitexj98's post.
 
I tried to search but I'm getting mixed info. Does anyone have the part numbers for the ZJ upgrade?

What I had was

ES2079S
DS1046
ES2222L
DS1312
ES3096L

Thanks
 
Just as a note, you can build stock geometry steering out of DOM & Chevy tie rod ends using this part for the drag link / tie rod connection. No tie rod roll, can go OTK if you want, use stock taper ends or Chevy stuff, whatever.
 
thats a neat option... but id rather use heims than mimic stock geometry.

ZJ setup:
TRE at knuckle: $46
tie rod: $85
adjuster: $27
total: $158

seems like a lot to me for a piece of crap when you could have a DOM tie rod that still uses factory TREs that you can warranty. the stocker has an OD of .750", i have sleeved them for other people. if you need beef steering, skip the ZJ garbage. if the stocker is adequate... id still consider steering away from it. no pun intended...
 
thats a neat option... but id rather use heims than mimic stock geometry.

ZJ setup:
TRE at knuckle: $46
tie rod: $85
adjuster: $27
total: $158

seems like a lot to me for a piece of crap when you could have a DOM tie rod that still uses factory TREs that you can warranty. the stocker has an OD of .750", i have sleeved them for other people. if you need beef steering, skip the ZJ garbage. if the stocker is adequate... id still consider steering away from it. no pun intended...

That's if you but new though,
I bought my junk yard tie rod and adjuster for $30 and bought a new lifetime warranty tie rod end. So my total was $77 which is cheap for a very stout tie rod,
 
you can "save" a lot of money at the pick and pull... but something about buying used parts that wear and putting them on my rig doesnt appeal to me. is it going to last 5 miles, or 50k miles?

to each their own.

Understandable, I see where you're coming from, I've had mine in for over a year and a half and as long as I keep greasing the joint I feel like it'll last a long time, then again if it fails in the next few years, it'll be $30 well spent as I can just get another, swap my tie rod end or replace with a free new tie rod end and call it good. Figured I would give the OP a second thought on the junk yard upgrade
 
I agree about going to a pick and pull, I would rather just get everything new. I was pricing out the tie rod and everything on Summit it would be about 160, for a new tie rod with drag link and TRE's and sleeves. Compared to maybe an IRO tie rod with TRE's is about 100 but I will need a new TRE and drag link so maybe about 200. One part that confuses the heck out of me is mounting an aftermarket tie rod and the drag link? I guess what I'm confused about is the stock setup seems that the drag link attaches to the knuckle and then the tie rod attaches to the drag link. So for the IRO tie rod would it do the same or am I missing something? I'm just not seeing how that would work. Thanks
 
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