Need Ideas for steering on my D44

[XJ-wheeler]

I am just finishing up with the 8" lift, long arm upgrade and D44 front ARB locked with 9" rear detroit locked. I am going to start in on the steering and was interested in what you guys who are running D44 in the front with this kind of lift have done for this. Pics would be great and any changes you think you would make would be great as well. thanks

 

[STRYKER]

I am just finishing up with the 8" lift, long arm upgrade and D44 front ARB locked with 9" rear detroit locked. I am going to start in on the steering and was interested in what you guys who are running D44 in the front with this kind of lift have done for this. Pics would be great and any changes you think you would make would be great as well. thanks

There is absolutely no substitute for the high steering arms and knuckles on the 44 on anything over 5".

I actually had my Ford knuckles machined, drilled and tapped....enabling me to maintain the Ford axles configuration, as well as the Ford brake calipers.

Look at your knuckles....they should look at least this wide on top...

 

[XJ-wheeler]

thanks for the info. I am going to try and go that route if I can.

 

[FarmerMatt]

Hysteer arms are the only way to fly. I stole some Chevy knuckles from a friend that were already machined & tapped in the manor Deano described. To do this you'll need Chevy spindle, caliper mount, & calipers. You'll use those with the Ford rotors & hub assembly. You can get away with using the Ford stub axles, but you won't be able to put the snapring on the end of the shaft. This doesn't hurt anything though. I built the arms to not only bolt to the 3 bolts machined into the tops of the knuckles, but also to attach to the stock location. This has worked great for me so far, but it is some work & fabrication. To my knowledge no one makes arms that attach down to the stock location for sale. If you do a search on google you'll find a few write ups done on this subject.

Matt

 

[STRYKER]

Hysteer arms are the only way to fly. I stole some Chevy knuckles from a friend that were already machined & tapped in the manor Deano described. To do this you'll need Chevy spindle, caliper mount, & calipers. You'll use those with the Ford rotors & hub assembly. You can get away with using the Ford stub axles, but you won't be able to put the snapring on the end of the shaft. This doesn't hurt anything though. I built the arms to not only bolt to the 3 bolts machined into the tops of the knuckles, but also to attach to the stock location. This has worked great for me so far, but it is some work & fabrication. To my knowledge no one makes arms that attach down to the stock location for sale. If you do a search on google you'll find a few write ups done on this subject.

Matt

As I was pointing out...
I had my ford knuckles (1979 vintage had almost flat tops as well- enough to get the pattern on and work)

... yet they allow the ford axles to be used, so you can actually use the c-clip to secure the lockouts (instead of a fender washer and a bolt) as well as retain the ford caliper mount and Ford calipers....
It's just a whole lot cheaper than buying the whole works from a Chevy (which I did once...but sold it all to a fellow in Canada because the Dillinger burned )

When it came time for the Honcho Comanche project, I had seen several guys at POR were using the Ford knuckles. BillaVista actually features a link to one of those guys on his vast "steering" page.
Wish I still had the link....

Best to all...

Deano

 

[CRASH]

Here's mine, using OEM style Chevy 1 ton TRE's. I use a full chevy system on a Ford high pinion 44. I retained the 6 lug pattern.

One thing to take into account on an XJ/TJ/ZJ application is the coil spring mounts. They push the coils too far forward, and it interferes with the steering at full lock. I would suggest moving the coil buckets back about 3/4" on the axle.

CRASH

 

[FarmerMatt]

That's cool that you were able to retain the stock knuckles. I always heard that there wasn't enough meat on them to do it. I know my stock Ford knuckles didn't. I do know the later modles are different from the earlier ones I haven't really looked at the later knuckles though.

The snap rings on the stub shafts really aren't a consern. The instructions for installation of warn hubs even points out that if you can't get the snap ring to go on not to worry about it.

Reuseing your stock knuckles would be the way to go if at all possible unless you know somebody that has all the chevy stuff sitting out in the shed behind his house.

It's good to see you around again Deano.

Matt

 

[XJ-wheeler]

what year is the ford axel that you are running in the front

 

[FarmerMatt]

71 Early Bronco

 

[STRYKER]

"My Tractor Can't Get No Traction"

Now that's funny....
I've heard different.

Glad to enteract with some of the old crew again in Forum style...
Some of us have been going back and forth on E-mail for quite some time....

If that c-clip isn't snapped on, I think the axle flops around inside the hub. Can't be sure....but I had an occurance that we couldn't figure out any other way.
I was using the axles that came with my second Ford assembly (and I have no idea what they came out of) and the snap ring relief was off by over 3/8" .....directly keeping me from being able to install the c-clip. Only after I did the fender washer/bolt trick did they stop what sounded like flopping.

I recently pulled the odd axles and installed the ones from the first Dana 44....which I know are Ford pieces, with my new Warn lockouts. perfect fit.

I have a Ford F-250 knuckle here that used the top mounted steering arm from the factory. Side-by-side... It is exactly the measurements of the top of my 1979 F-150 piece. I had a pic of it somewhere online... but I can't seem to find it now.

You are correct on the earlier models... There is no meat to machine, much less drill and tap.

See you round the forum. Judy and I are waist deep in projects on our farm here. 1400 ft of fencing last weekend, 3 new horse arrivals this weekend, and I'm dressing the shop up by installing 3 new large windows to let daylight in.

As for that tractor traction...just add some chains.

 

[Beezil]

"so that ford axles could be used"

Stryker, as you may know, knuckles from a GM 3/4 ton p/u are a direct bolt-on to an EB 44 axle, and you ARE ALREADY SET-UP FOR HIGH STEER. I mean, I have a bridgeport mill just sitting there, I could "flattop" a fire hydrant if i wanted to, but sometimes, bolt-ons from junkyards is the way to go......

 

[XJ-wheeler]

thanks for all the info and the pic's I am going to see about getting some flat top nuckles of a buddy of mine.

 

[STRYKER]

"so that ford axles could be used"

Stryker, as you may know, knuckles from a GM 3/4 ton p/u are a direct bolt-on to an EB 44 axle, and you ARE ALREADY SET-UP FOR HIGH STEER. I mean, I have a bridgeport mill just sitting there, I could "flattop" a fire hydrant if i wanted to, but sometimes, bolt-ons from junkyards is the way to go......

Now, if he's talking a Bronco EB axle, I couldn't agree more. They already have the 6 lug spindle mount . But if it's the big 44, then the spindle mount went to a 5 lug wide pattern, and it's quite a bit of moolah to convert if you don't have everything just lying around.

I found the pic of the tapped driver's side Ford F-250 knuckle. If anyone's interested in viewing it, I'll add it onto my website and link it.