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my XJ stage 2 build thread

Shoemaker said:
Keep it big! Im about to put a 10 inch long arm lift on my xj. My buddy is at about 7inchs with 37s on his. We are about to do 8.5 inchs and 40s on my brothers. And than my other friend has an mj with 8 inchs and 36s. All good stable rigs that are definatley not pavement pounders. Just make sure its set up right and you strenghten the uni-body.
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Leave it to Florida, yeah 10 inches and mud is great isn't it? Try running an off camber trail and tell us how well that works out for you. Oh and I really hope you guys have swapped in one tons for those 40's, although I wouldn't be surprised since its Florida. :roflmao:

-Alex
 
emr1101 said:
This is a pic of the spacer they include, after my slop in my steering wheel i got pissed and tightened down my TREs like crazy, so this guy is a little more squished now. No differnce in steering, maybe .0001% better.

n1398720503_30485990_555.jpg
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By tightening the crap out of the castle nut, not only did you press the rod end of the tie rod end so far into its housing that it's going to be damn near impossible to remove, but you tightened it so far to the point that the cotter pin isn't even in line with the castle nut. i don't like slop either, but that's not the best way to fix that problem. a better solution that i've seen is getting pvc or other plastic in a sheet of desired thickness, drilling a hole out and cutting the necessary outer diameter and basically making your own bushings... if you can get those TRE's out.


mudslinger4x4 said:
might wanna bring it outta the garage before the lift. or take the lights off
Click to expand...

i saw that too...


Ba-Riedo said:
Leave it to Florida, yeah 10 inches and mud is great isn't it? Try running an off camber trail and tell us how well that works out for you. Oh and I really hope you guys have swapped in one tons for those 40's, although I wouldn't be surprised since its Florida. :roflmao:

-Alex
Click to expand...

my thoughts were what gears were going to be run with the 40's. and if the 1-tons were used, strengthen the crap out of the unibody, otherwise those boat anchors are gonna tear apart the sheet metal.
 
its reamed to far if it allowed you to crank it down like that. they say to ream it just till you see the cotter pin hole into the alignment slot in the nut for the pin.
 
SOUTHTEXASXJ said:
its reamed to far if it allowed you to crank it down like that. they say to ream it just till you see the cotter pin hole into the alignment slot in the nut for the pin.
Click to expand...

forgot about the fact that you have to ream it out. good call on that.
 
Those knuckles were reamed by JCR. THEY reamed them, not me, not a shop, the manufacturer of the steering they're used on - so i know they're right :)

By the way, I tightened that mo fo down as hard as i could, i took my monkey wrench do it and straight up did work till it rotated the TRE shaft inside the TRE. opps. Oh well, it seems fine to me? And i didnt look at directions haha... just kinda winged it.


I will say this, the problem was not my steering! It was my stupid track bar bracket! My friend was supposed to tighten down my RE1665 and locktite it really good. And he didnt. The entire bracket had an inch of lateral movement. Fixed it, except for one bolt because its being a PITA, but otherwise steering is good :) GRRRREAT SUCCESS! Cant wait for the 35s and 2 more inches of lift :) :) :)
 
why would you tighten down the TRE's like that? that's just ignorant. stupid stupid ignorant. Those things are your steering, kind of a part you don't want to fail. Maybe I'm just anal about using torque specs. because where I work, when you get caught not using torque specs or an improper installation procedure, you're fired. end of story. The company has good reason for it, liability.
 
well, i wanted to smash down the TRE as far as i could, im not the only one to do this, so go easy with the name calling buddy.

TREs are dump anyway on an inverted T, there is no point in having them, all they do is let the drag roll more. The knuckles stay in the same relative position to each other.
 
sorry, I just don't understand, didn't the kit come with instructions with torque specs? You bought the whole kit, so you shouldn't have to destroy your TRE's like that. I understand that the TRE is a waste of materials and money on an iverted T, I've been playing with the idea of a shaft with bearings on both ends instead of TRE's. I'd be worried that since the threads are so stretched now that the integrity of the TRE has been compomised. I'm glad you found the cause of your DW though.
 
Just drove 90 miles back to school, my TREs are NOT destroyed, thank you. They are fine, just on tight. Problem will be in taking them off will be harder if i ever need to, which i wont unless im replacing them - in which case i can destroy it as much as i please. And its only one TRE. And no, i received no instructions so i didnt think much about it.
 
the next time you feel like not listening to what naxja has to say, go back to page 1 of this thread, and figure out how much time, money and bandwidth you wasted by not listening.
the whole tie rod thing doesnt surprise me one bit, as you are obviously a rebel.
know one of the downsides to a retarded ammount of lift? scary steering.
 
Haha what the hell are you even talking about dude? And what gives you the right to say that? I was tightening down the bolt to get the spacer on tighter, seemed like a logical idea to me, like i said it didnt help much, as it ended up being my track bar bracket, but still it damaged nothing. oh and buddy, its on a 4.5" rubicon express lift, so dont talk to me about retarded amounts of lift - as a good amount of the guys on here run that lift kit.
 
what happened to 7"?\ couldnt get it out of the garage that high?

oh, and my citizenship gives me the right to talk as much shit as i want.
i worry about the familys driving the same roads as you, when your mechanical ethics seem retarded
 
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Tightening things down to make them LESS LOOSE is poor mechanical ethics? The Jeep runs FINE now, and handles as well as it did before, what point are you making? It works, and its tight - how is it unsafe? I haven't done the rest of the lift yet, your "shit talking" is getting you no where. I don't appreciate it nor do I want it, if you have an intelligent comment to make go ahead, but everything in my steering is fine now. I'm not continuing with this so if you want take it to a message or something but please keep it off the thread that is meant for tech not flaming, if you want to flame hit up pirate.
 
No matter how tight you make your Tie rod ends, they are going to get loose again and again. You reamed you knuckles out way too far causing the cotter pin not to lock in the castle nut, giving the nut the ability to come loose.

B/c of this, your having to tighten them way to much, and doing this you have more of a chance of the tie rod ball joint to come apart. The only correct way to fix this is by getting some new knuckles from a JY, and re-ream them correctly.

AND....JCR has the instructions for installation on their web site right next to where you order.



Thank You.....and good night........
 
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