My "Hero" Blog

I was looking for a new clutch setup since I thought mine was starting to go out again. Rock auto had a Luk pro gold for 150ish when I looked a couple weeks ago. Came with new slave, pilot bearing, clutch pads, and all that. I'm currently using a Luk regular now and have been happy with it so far. They also had a Sachs that many recommended while google searching. Turned out my master was leaking and had air in the line.
 
Thanks Llama, I think the Luk clutch was one of the cheaper ones on there too. Good o know someone else has had good luck with it.

Now, I found the source of my chatter.. or so I believe.



Might be hard to tell from the picture, but thats a fat crack in my bellhousing. Looks like my lower starter bolt sheared off and over time a crack began to form. Now my transmission is about to break off my ****ing engine. The crack is over a foot long. Great.

I leave for school on Friday and was hoping to wheel at Cantina this weekend. If anyone has or knows where I can find an AX-15 external slave bell housing, please let me know. I need one ASAP as the jeep is pretty much immobile (other than getting in and out of the driveway) and it needs to be fixed before the weekend. Cash in hand.
 
Ouch. There's a place in Hayward that rebuilds transmissions caled Transmission Parts and Cores. They're on West Winton Ave, 510-783-5222. Don't know how much they'd charge but they might be able to help you out.
 
Damn That sucks!!! When I cracked my bellhousing I was looking on craigslist. Found a guy who rebuilds and sells trannys. When I talked to him he told me he has a bunch of parts and bellhousings etc. I dont have any contact info but you might be able to find his info on craigslist.
Also I replaced my clutch with a standard Luk a few thousand ago.. Not a huge fan because I have some play and chatter. But I think its due to me not resurfacing my flywheel and I might also need to bleed it. So my input doesnt count. haha. BUT i am pretty sure that Luk clutches came in most ax-15 trannys from factory.
 
picknpull
 
sorry to hear all that Kevin.
Do the slave, throwout, clutch, get flywheel checked out, or get a new one, get pressure plate checked out.
 
Thanks guys.

Pulled a late nighter and all day-er with a buddy and we have it back on the road. Had the trans ready to drop by 3:00 this morning. Dropped the trans first thing in the morning.



Then went on a solid drive up to Rancho Jeep in Rancho Cordova and snatched a bellhousing for $140. Picked up a clutch kit at Oreilly's and went to town. Had it back in in no time.

New bell housing on



shiny stuff



It drives great but the clutch grabs super far out toward the top. Might try bleeding the master/slave again tomorrow to see if that helps.

Also found out my cat was broken and clogged... So I gutted it. Good god it is LOUD, especially since it cuts off behind the passenger seat.

Anyway, I'm back on the road so I'm happy.
 
DUDE way to go! I am stoked for you .

definetly need to bleed the thing some more for sure it sounds.
 
Thanks guys, I'm very fortunate that I was able to make this trip. It was one of my better Rubicon trips to date.

So I met up with the Rowdy Krawlers group at 6 in Cameron Park, left at 7:30PM or so and got to our camp spot at the bottom of the box at 5/5:30 in the morning. Its always fun setting up your tent when the sun is coming up! Then the next day I wheeled out to the spillway with some buddies for tacos and then back to camp. The trail was jam packed but was still fun.

Anyway, the highlight of my trip was me successfully wheeling Soup Bowl. Twice! The first time was at roughly 4:45/5:00 AM before we hit camp. I literally walked it in 30 seconds (with the help of some friends pushing). Then on the way back from Cantina, I ran it again. I am/was so stoked that I was able to do it after watching much more built rigs struggle to make it up. Heres some pics from round 2.











Earlier in the day, someone hit hit me on the trail and broke my tail light off, gave me a few bucks to cover it and I wedged it back in place. Then on soup bowl I hit it on a rock and it exploded. Worked out pretty well I'd say.

I also got some damage on my passenger quarter panel on my soup bowl exit, and hit the other quarter in the first stretch of the trail from Loon, but it was all so worth it!

All in all, this was a great Rubicon trip and I'm hoping to get back out there ASAP!
 
Dude way to go on soup bowl man. Ive seen tons of rigs not make it up that thing.
 
So I've had a check engine light on since I've replaced my bell housing. Code is p0420 for a low catalyst efficiency bank 1. It would only come on after WOT (passing people up ice house rd or in the mountains). No biggie. It would run totally fine.

So yesterday I cleared the CEL (and reset the computer) by grounding my positive battery cable, and I also pulled my front o2 sensor connector apart and blew it out, thinking some debris got in there while it was unhooked during the bell housing swap.

So I'm driving to meet up with a study group on campus tonight (like a mile away) and the heep starts idling like crap. Like I've got a fat cam in it. I can tell it's running stupid rich as it's spewing out black smoke and it smells like crap (rich). Also, the check engine light came back on but I have no way to check it (no scanner). So idk if it's the same code as before (p0420).

Anyway, my guess is it's the upstream O2 sensor took a dump on me. Do you guys have any other ideas? Would that cause the lumpy/low idle? I've been rockin the P0420 code for a while (500 miles or so) and it's never been a problem, so the idle/running rich is throwing me off.

Also, I gutted my cat when I swapped bell housings, and I'm running no muffler... But bank 1 is the front o2 sensor right, so idk how the cat would effect that.

I'll try running to aamco tomorrow to get the code pulled to see if it's different than the p0420.
 
^thanks for the heads up man. I never knew you could do that with obd2.

Well I got the codes pulled and thy were 2 different codes. Changed the front upstream o2 sensor and I was on my way.

And if anyone is wondering/searching, the P0420 code is caused when the two oxygen sensors (before and after the cat) read the same or a very similar reading. Normally, the reading after the cat is much different than the reading upstream. But since my cat is gutted, the readings are about the same. So now I have to live with the P0420 code and a check engine light. There is a way to "trick" the system into getting different readings. More on that later.


Other than this, nothing has really been going on with my heep. Just been busy with school and I've been out hunting a lot which cuts into my jeep time. But come tomorrow, I'll be tearing down the front end for some much needed new pinion bearings before wheeling moonrocks next weekend.
 
I would get off this Topic ASAP personally and delete all talk about it . Letterman gave me one of those NAXJA infraction warnings for the exact same topic once. Just an FYI.
 
Technically I don't think I have said anything wrong so far. I guess I just can't explain how to trick the system. I guess someone could PM me if they're really curious. Thanks for the heads up Jon.

Gordon, I'll be swapping welding in a new cat for smog. But that's not for 2 more years anyway.

I passed smog 100% legit with a crushed catalytic converter (passed with 3 or 4 ppm to spare) and gutted it afterward.
 
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