Mopar purple cam and lifters from summit, new valve springs, am I missing anything el

[blondejoncherokee]

Ive been researching like crazy and trying to figure out everything I should do with a new cam. I don't need one , thing runs fine, just want to do the head gasket for maintenance , and magna flux the head, port it, and figured once I tear it all apart might as well do timing, then once thats apart, might as well do the cam, and so on.

so any advice would be great. folks in the oem tech said post over here...

So I have been searching and I plan to order the Mopar Purple cam with lifters kit p4529229. what else should I be concerned about?

So just to address the cam swap, am I missing anything else- my main concern is valve springs. many guys recommend the P4529215 's, so I was planning on grabbing 12 of them as well. Break in lubes like Z grease or just some Moly grease?

I also plan on having a 3 angle valve job done at local cylinder head shop and use a kit to port and polish the head , mopar performance head gasket P4529242 as well as a melling high volume oil pump 167mvs, new del-pro head bolt kit, in case anyone asks.

I am already running long tube headers and bored TB, ford 19lb injectors.

There are many folks that just do the cam and lifters and call it done but there are many that do valve springs
__________________

 

[Root Moose]

Do the rockers at the same time? It's effectively all apart anyway might as well upgrade that as well?

 

[blondejoncherokee]

Do the rockers at the same time? It's effectively all apart anyway might as well upgrade that as well?

thanks for the input. thats the sort of thing I am looking for.
any recommendations for what rockers on a good budget, or is the bang for the buck not there? not really looking to spend a bunch on roller rockers or anything, I don't consider this that high of a performance motor, mostly just some refreshing and might as well port the head and put in a better cam at the same time. I see the yella terras go for around 500$, and I don't think the reduced friction gains is worth the cost for me. Now when I start to build a stroker on the side this fall with the spare motor, then Its probably worth it...

 

[Root Moose]

Well, I've heard everything from the roller rockers slowing global warming, making you irresistible to women, gaining 1 mpg and reducing the noise levels of the engine.

From an efficiency point of view I figure they are worth doing if you can swing the costs and/ or the existing rockers are due for replacement anyway.

In my mind any engine with more than ~150k miles on it could probably use them replaced to avoid the old rockers fatiguing and failing. That's if the engine is apart anyway I mean. Yeah, not likely to fail but if you had it all apart anyway and that did happen you'd want to kick yourself in the butt.

The cheaper thing is to replace with factory replacement but once you're in for a bit of money what's a bit more? And do you trust off the shelf Chrysler factory replacement parts? I'm not sure I do.

2¢

 

[Alexia]

I cleaned up the stock rockers with 220,000 miles on them and put them back in my stroker. I also used new stock valve springs with the MOPAR P4529229AC camshaft. It runs great with no signs of issues in the oil.

 

[blondejoncherokee]

so from what I've read the camshaft p4529229 with lifters and the springs P4529215 is pretty common. i just cant find anyone saying explicitly that they gained low end torque or lost it with this setup.
right now the thing is torquey as hell with the 5.13s in 4 lo, but it leaves something to be desired on the freeway going uphill, it struggles bad on the uphill freeway going to the rubicon, to wheel reno, slick rock, etc. I would ideally like to do both.

Am I way off with this cam and these valve springs or is that a pretty good setup?

 

[yossarian19]

Jon I don't want to talk you out of doing a cam & hot rodding your Jeep but I think you are overthinking maintenance here.
Head gaskets are pretty much for life if you keep the coolant decent. It might rot out someday but this is *way* beyond preventative maintenance. When I worked in a shop, if I even mentioned such a thing the boss would have told me to come back when I was sober.

 

[blondejoncherokee]

Jon I don't want to talk you out of doing a cam & hot rodding your Jeep but I think you are overthinking maintenance here.
Head gaskets are pretty much for life if you keep the coolant decent. It might rot out someday but this is *way* beyond preventative maintenance. When I worked in a shop, if I even mentioned such a thing the boss would have told me to come back when I was sober.

.

I like that advice. saves me time and money and makes me feel better about leaving it alone. that being said, I might still do it all anyway for piece of mind at this point. since I have a broken manifold bolt in the head that I've wanted to pull for years. and like I said it likes to run hot on 100* days pulling uphill with a lot of gear, to the point where it will reach 230 and ill have to pull over and its basically over heating.

 

[blondejoncherokee]

Can I get by with this cam with my 4 hole ford 19lb injectors? Or will I need some higher flow injectors?

Also will the stock Map sensor work or will I need a MAP adjuster?

 

[yossarian19]

It being OBD1 I guess you can't just hook up a scanner and watch the fuel trim...
You could set up a wide band o2 sensor and watch the results, tune from there?
I don't have an easy answer for that one. Hopefully somebody more experienced can give you better input there.

 

[blondejoncherokee]

I'm Still putting together a parts list, and it will be a combination of using summit racing (mopar cam kit with lifters is cheap there) and east coast moparts has some of the gaskets and what not the cheapest I've found.


camshaft lifters(mopar 29)
mopar performance head gasket.
12 valve springs 9215's -ill do new valve springs for cheap insurance
3 angle valve job

I hope I can still run 87 on this.

I might not do a full port and polish, but might just end up gasket matching the head to the intake ad exhaust.


Im not a motor guy, usually axles , suspension, steering, sort of thing so this will be a first for me.

 

[yossarian19]

So, I don't remember the numbers on that Mopar '29' stick. I *think* it had less overlap than the stock cam. Overlap is the amount of time (in degrees rotation) that both intake and exhaust valves are open. More overlap = higher power at higher RPM. Less overlap = smoother idle, more torque down low.
It also means that at idle you are going to develop higher cylinder pressures, which means dynamic compression ratio is higher.
I'd think this makes it more likely to need 89 octane but I don't know this for sure. I've never built an engine before either - strictly book knowledge here.

 

[old_man]

Personally, if you are going to all this trouble, I would have the machine shop check the valve guide clearances, and if any are the least bit loose, have the guides reamed and bronze inserts put in.

NEVER let anyone knurl the valve guides.

 

[blondejoncherokee]

Personally, if you are going to all this trouble, I would have the machine shop check the valve guide clearances, and if any are the least bit loose, have the guides reamed and bronze inserts put in.

NEVER let anyone knurl the valve guides.

Thank you. This is good to know. I will do that.

 

[torque062]

You might want to also consider resurfacing the head going with a thinner head gasket. Keep the quench height in the .035-.045 if you can. I'm in the process of a 4.2l mini stroker build and will have a quench of .043 with a compression ratio of about 9.6:1. You should check out jeepstrokers if you got some time to read. They have a lot of great info over there.

 

[blondejoncherokee]

resurface the head and the thinner gasket? or resurface the head and use a stock gasket?

 

[blondejoncherokee]

i have an account on jeep strokers and have searched a lot for the mopar 29 cam by its part number, and most variations, with no real luck through their search function. everything is always a stroker related question, and there are not many.

I am reconsidering building my existing motor and instead just doing a poor mans stroker in the spare motor, and therefore putting the cam/lifters/head work/valve work/gasket match manifolds / in the spare motor, getting the 4.2 crank, getting the right pistons and rods, getting the block cleaned, bored only if needed, and then porting that head and just continue to run this one. that seems like a smarter decision. That should allow me to fully built this motor on the side and then just swap it in a weekend sometime in the fall.

 

[old_man]

resurface the head and the thinner gasket? or resurface the head and use a stock gasket?

Resurfacing the head does nothing to change the quench height. The thinner gasket will.

 

[torque062]

Right. Resurfacing the head will slightly raise your static compression ratio, which could be a benefit if you also lower your quench height.

 

[blondejoncherokee]

Right. Resurfacing the head will slightly raise your static compression ratio, which could be a benefit if you also lower your quench height.

Ah ok. I think I am starting to get it. I will do that then. Thanks for the help. this is great information. I was already planning on the performance head gasket.

I've been getting lost in what pistons with what crank. I believe the 12 weight crank is the one that produces more torque and the 4 weight revs up faster?