mild go-fast build questions

King vs. Bilstein 7! In the left corrrrrrrrrnor we have.................................................a flatbiller.........and In the RIGHT cornor, we have, 6 time reigning champion.................CrazyyyyJim!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

haha. All BS aside. BOTH companies are good, alot of race teams DO use Kings, And Bilsteins are superior. nuff said. Im kidding. You get what I mean though. Use what you think is best. I only have experience running Bilsteins, but Ive seen kings do some pretty great stuff. But, the op isnt going to buy kings if 5160's are expensive. How about recomending something like 7100 shocks? Still expensive, but an alternative to 5160s, even though it seems prices are close.

Meow that I ranted, Let me say that If you do mud, why do you want a through the floor shock set up? Just saying if you really need it then cool, if not, dont waste your time. If you do alot of crawling, mud, and drive fast it means you drive you jeep like a real person, you abuse it enough to want something better. I have used bilstein 7100s with a good experience. I cant vouch for 5160s, or even 5150s that you have. You're on long arms, 35s, blah blah blah. Im just going to recomend a rebuildable shock. 2.0 is probably enough. I dont like FOX because every rig I've seen with them has leaky seals. I will stick by my bilstein 7100s and thats it.


GOOD DAY SIR!

-----NorCalChris
 
I have only had my fox's for a year but they don't leak at all. By buddy has fox's on his toyota desert race truck and they have gone years without leaking. If they do its like a $10 seal to fix it.

I personally have limited experience but so far I am very happy with mine. I have revalved them probably 3 times so far.
 
King vs. Bilstein 7! In the left corrrrrrrrrnor we have.................................................a flatbiller.........and In the RIGHT cornor, we have, 6 time reigning champion.................CrazyyyyJim!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

haha. All BS aside. BOTH companies are good, alot of race teams DO use Kings, And Bilsteins are superior. nuff said. Im kidding. You get what I mean though. Use what you think is best. I only have experience running Bilsteins, but Ive seen kings do some pretty great stuff. But, the op isnt going to buy kings if 5160's are expensive. How about recomending something like 7100 shocks? Still expensive, but an alternative to 5160s, even though it seems prices are close.

Meow that I ranted, Let me say that If you do mud, why do you want a through the floor shock set up? Just saying if you really need it then cool, if not, dont waste your time. If you do alot of crawling, mud, and drive fast it means you drive you jeep like a real person, you abuse it enough to want something better. I have used bilstein 7100s with a good experience. I cant vouch for 5160s, or even 5150s that you have. You're on long arms, 35s, blah blah blah. Im just going to recomend a rebuildable shock. 2.0 is probably enough. I dont like FOX because every rig I've seen with them has leaky seals. I will stick by my bilstein 7100s and thats it.


GOOD DAY SIR!

-----NorCalChris
i dont wheel mud often anymore but i still like to every once and a while. majority of my wheeling is go fast down trails to get to crawling spots. more recently its been hauling ass down unfamiliar NJ trails where big whoops show up randomly.

i want a through the floor setup because i was running BPEs and high clearance shock mounts ever since i swapped my 8.8 under my jeep. forcing me to run an 8.5" travel shock (close to stock shock size).

ran great on the road and crawling.. but wasnt as nice going fast down trails. 3 weeks ago this finally happend

IMG_20111023_105823.jpg


blew off both eyes on one of my 5150s and one off the one pictured, broke and bent both the shock mounts too. 3 days prior to this i swapped in LII leaf sliders and clayton leafs. my lift hieght didnt change but i guess my bumpstops were off after swapping in the new suspension.. oh well

i didnt want to order expensive shocks that need to be rebuilt/revalved if i didnt need them or wasnt going to use them to their full potential. after doing more reasearch and thinking about it ive decided to just go for it.

going to burn the shock hoops in sometime this week hopefully. then i can get an acurate measurment for a shock. should be running a 14" (maybe 16") fox 2.0 remote resi when alls said and done. unsure of valving just yet..
 
well before i burn the shock mounts in, is there a specific reason i see alot of go-fast guys running their lower mounts like this (eyes going side to side)

xj-shock-mount-rear-lower-spring-mount-small.jpg


as oposed to the oposite way (eyes front to back) like i curently have on my axle tube mounts?
 
well before i burn the shock mounts in, is there a specific reason i see alot of go-fast guys running their lower mounts like this (eyes going side to side)

xj-shock-mount-rear-lower-spring-mount-small.jpg


as oposed to the oposite way (eyes front to back) like i curently have on my axle tube mounts?
For those leaf spring plate mounts The brackets would be larger and have more surface area that is welded? That is my guess.
There is nothing wrong with stock mounts/location other than being below the axle tube which lowers clearance.
 
I'm in the process of reworking my rear shock mounts, both upper and axle. I've come up with a pretty good, workable solution to keep the shocks in the stock location up top and eliminate the bar pin issues.

In theory, keeping the eye mounting point closer to the tire will reduce the potential for a large enough rock to strike the shock eye/mount and damage it.

I want to run a 10" travel shock, so I'll be moving my axle mounts down below the axle tubes and slightly outboard in an effort to gain another 1.5" of travel. For those of us who don't want to reduce cargo space and/or punch through the floor/wheelwell, I'm shooting for a good compromise.

As I'm not racing my rig through the desert on a regular basis, I'd rather have the extra travel VS protecting the shock eye/mount from a rock strike by keeping it parallel or above the axle tube. I'll be fabbing up double shear axle mounts that will also protect the shock eye.
 
ran great on the road and crawling.. but wasnt as nice going fast down trails. 3 weeks ago this finally happend

IMG_20111023_105823.jpg


blew off both eyes on one of my 5150s and one off the one pictured, broke and bent both the shock mounts too. 3 days prior to this i swapped in LII leaf sliders and clayton leafs. my lift hieght didnt change but i guess my bumpstops were off after swapping in the new suspension.. oh well

Looks like you only had about 3" of uptravel.......not surprised that this happened.
 
well before i burn the shock mounts in, is there a specific reason i see alot of go-fast guys running their lower mounts like this (eyes going side to side)

xj-shock-mount-rear-lower-spring-mount-small.jpg


as oposed to the oposite way (eyes front to back) like i curently have on my axle tube mounts?

They're mounted that way so that the mount dosen't interfere with the bottom mount on the shock.

Rock crawlers mount them the other direction for the same reason but they are looking for more articulation travel rather than wheel travel.
 
Looks like you only had about 3" of uptravel.......not surprised that this happened.


4" up and 4.5 down. wasnt to bad. i swapped new springs and slider boxes in and my bumpstops wernt setup for those. it wouldnt have happened with my old rear suspension. im glad it happened because its forcing me to finally buy shocks and get my shock hoops burned in
 
Um..not even remotely. YOU gave decent advice, so Idk why you think it was directed at you. Unless you ocasionally partake in flatbilled events. Glad you think im ignorant buddy! Keep on wheeling.

Because mine was the next post. . .

Sorry for being overly sensitive, but it sounds like we are all on the same page with the flatbiller deal. Since the race car is a Ranger, we do have to deal with the DGAF crowd occasionally, but I'm just an old Jeeper from the PNW. . .
 
Because mine was the next post. . .

Sorry for being overly sensitive, but it sounds like we are all on the same page with the flatbiller deal. Since the race car is a Ranger, we do have to deal with the DGAF crowd occasionally, but I'm just an old Jeeper from the PNW. . .

Flatbiller DGAF crowd? Sounds like stereotyping to me :scottm:

Oh and to the OP stick with Bilsteins great shock and customer service
 
bilsteins got their own problems. you wont see a fox shock lose its rod end on a street driven vehicle, but it happens on 5150's only all the damn time.

fanboism is lame, no matter the specifics.

OH, and none of my foxes have ever leaked... and ive got plenty of them. dont hate on something for no reason. i would run either fox, king, or bilstein(except the 5150) in a heartbeat. theyre all great shocks.
 
bilsteins got their own problems. you wont see a fox shock lose its rod end on a street driven vehicle, but it happens on 5150's only all the damn time.

fanboism is lame, no matter the specifics.

OH, and none of my foxes have ever leaked... and ive got plenty of them. dont hate on something for no reason. i would run either fox, king, or bilstein(except the 5150) in a heartbeat. theyre all great shocks.

Agreed to an extent. I run Bilstein's because I have access to one of the best shock tuners in the industry who happens to work for Bilstein.

LOOKS like you are looking at the bottom of his LOWER striker... you cant see his actual bump, so how do you know his numbers?

Re-read his post, he admitted that his bumps were not set up correctly. You can also see where the shock body ends, and where his shock eye SHOULD be. That's where he got his rough estimate of 3" of travel from. This is common when people in the crawler world try to go fast with their relocated lower mounts. :twak:
 
what leafs do you have in the rear? I would valve the shocks somewhere around 70+ on the compression and about 50-60 on the rebound. Are you running hydro bumps? Try to get the shock as vertical as possible when you mount them.
 
what leafs do you have in the rear? I would valve the shocks somewhere around 70+ on the compression and about 50-60 on the rebound. Are you running hydro bumps? Try to get the shock as vertical as possible when you mount them.

im running clayton 6.5" leafs with LII slider boxes.

for bumps i have daystar bumps on the frame rail and custom leaf plates that extend over the axle tube with energy suspension bumps bolted to those. similar to what crazy jim has in his build thread. front are just hockey pucks with the stock bumps. they will either get teraflex speedbumps(getting them free from a buddy) or fox airbumps. rear will probably stay the same, i like that setup alot.

started on the hoops a few days ago. havent got the time to burn them in yet. but heres a teaser pic.

IMG_20111114_211037.jpg
 
Back
Top