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Many problems from 90 XJ...

iight, well i dont have time right now to do it again but what u think ab fuel pressure coming back? Is that the fuel pump puttin pressure back? i'll check it tonight after the show n replace the CPS... thankx, ttyl
 
Okay, advanced is the only place around got what I need and its only 30 bucks... As far as the fuel pump check for the ECU... The damn starter is sooo loud... pressure oin the fuel lines after releasinging before the turn, that seems to show the pump working... anything else...
 
k, new cps in... NOTHING!!! WTF!!!! K heres there the situation... no spark to plugs... it has new battery, new starter, plugs, wires, new distributor cap n rotar, new coil, new CPS, tested good coil module, tested good alterntator, home tested good ECU... Why am I not gettin juice through the coil to the plugs... NEED HELP, tired of messing with this!
 
MOOSE16285 said:
k, new cps in... NOTHING!!! WTF!!!! K heres there the situation... no spark to plugs... it has new battery, new starter, plugs, wires, new distributor cap n rotar, new coil, new CPS, tested good coil module, tested good alterntator, home tested good ECU... Why am I not gettin juice through the coil to the plugs... NEED HELP, tired of messing with this!

Okay, sorry guys, its a new day today. I really need help please. I admit its getting frustrating cause I'm killing all this money that I dont have much of and end results are the same. But hey, I got new replacement parts if it comes down to a new motor. Its not a motor problem though, its electrical... Can anyone tell me where to check ALL my grounds, particularlly, iunno if it has one, motor to chassis ground. And read the list of all new/tested stuff and let me know whats missing. I'm a little frustrated but damnit I'm doing this till it gets back on the road... ANY HELP WELCOME!
 
MOOSE16285 said:
Okay, advanced is the only place around got what I need and its only 30 bucks... As far as the fuel pump check for the ECU... The damn starter is sooo loud... pressure oin the fuel lines after releasinging before the turn, that seems to show the pump working... anything else...
No one said anything about starting it, just turn the key on and listen.
Have you installed the new CPS?
 
the three pin thing does have 12V going to it... n coil is brand new, so i guess the module is fried... autozone tesated it 3 times and passed it al the times... but home testing shows 12V going in but nothing coming out. I assume theres the problem now... $90 but oh well, it better work. waiting till friday cause i'm broke... do we agree that this enlies the problem...
 
Anything is possible. But if I'm remembering right, there is only four wires going to the ignition module. A large yellow which is power in (12 V), a small yellow wire which is the trigger wire, a green wire which is the tach. wire and a ground (black). The small yellow wire pulses, the module.
The small yellow (trigger wire) goes to the ECU, which triggers spark. There are a whole bunch of things that will cause the ECU, not to trigger. Usually it won't trigger the ignition and the injectors.
Take a piece of copper tubing and listen to the injectors, while cranking the motor. Or stick an analogue meter from any colored (other than black) injector wire to vehicle ground and see if the injectors are firing. If they are firing (triggering), it`s likely the problem is in your ignition system, the module, the wiring or the inputs.
If the injector isn't firing, most likely the problem is an ECU input, either a sensor, a relay, power, cable/connector. The ignition and the injectors, share some inputs.
I've done a bunch of mudding and power washing my Jeeps. Three out of four problems, are in the connectors or the wring.
I could be wrong, but with a total of three XJ's with a combined age of 44 years, I've replaced very few sensors or components. Have found a bunch of continuity problems.
Buying parts and hoping to get lucky, isn't the way I'd do it. Break it down into sub systems and test each sub system.
You have 12 volts at the large yellow wire, going to the ignition module, that means the ignition switch and the wiring to that point, appear OK. Did you test the large yellow wire in both the run and start position?
If you want to PM me, we can make a date to IM and do a few checks in real time and maybe get a handle on this thing.
 
Ok, I got 12V to the coil now... the coil or something is not amping the Vs for the spark plugs... can that centralize the problem more? coil n coil module to read 12V now but so V ampage for spark...
 
along with the last post, someone please tell me about fusible links on a 90 cherokee 4.0L 4x4... where do i find em and how likely it is that they are broke?
 
Okay, I been on it since the wee early morning... At 5AM i got sidetracked cause some dude ran through my front yard at like 100MPH through my fences into the house behind me and ended up completely in his living room... heres a pic...

So its 2PM I've settled down, ate a lil bit and wanna get back to work now...

Heres where I'm at... Coil reads 12V. But will not amp to the 33,000V needed for spark. Heres whats new and tested fine... Coil, plug wires, plugs, distrubtor cap/rotar, starter, battery, alternator, CPS, ECU. I think I left one thing out but I'll bring it up later. I was told to check pick up coil... Suggestions... I'll be here all day so blow this up with ideas!
 
The pickup coil is another word for the cps.
 
pick up coil and crankshaft position sensor are synomous?! so whats inside the distributor they said i need to look at, like under the rotar n all... suppose to be electrical i need to look at there... quick poll, where do i get a 90 jeep xj FSM from?! haynes doesnt give details to all i need!
 
Fuse links are on the passanger side right behind the battery under that cover. They are just in front of the 4 relays. They are green, ornge, blue etc and they connect to the bigger red wires. They appear to be tied to a post that the positive battery cable goes to. Don't know where any more are yet, but I'm chasing a short right now, and if I fond any more I'll let you know.

If one is fryed use the same color to replace it with.
Good luck
 
MOOSE16285 said:
pick up coil and crankshaft position sensor are synomous?! so whats inside the distributor they said i need to look at, like under the rotar n all... suppose to be electrical i need to look at there... quick poll, where do i get a 90 jeep xj FSM from?! haynes doesnt give details to all i need!
The pickup under the rotor is the "Camshaft Position Sensor" sometimes called the CKP, it is not needed for spark. Your engine will run without it, but rough.
 
MOOSE16285 said:
pick up coil and crankshaft position sensor are synomous?! so whats inside the distributor they said i need to look at, like under the rotar n all... suppose to be electrical i need to look at there... quick poll, where do i get a 90 jeep xj FSM from?! haynes doesnt give details to all i need!

Hah! Haynes is the manual I use to prop up that odd leg on the workbench out in the garage...

Fuel, Air, Spark. Gotta have all three...

Air - as long as the intake is open, air isn't a problem.

Fuel - two things to start with here -
Fuel pump. You can usually hear this running. If you really want to hear it, jump the ballast resistor in the driver's fenderwell with a heavy-gage jump lead and turn the key on.
Fuel injection pulses - if the CPS is shot, you won't get these. The quickest way to check them is with a "Noid" light - it plugs into the FI connector. These can be had for about $5 at a well-stocked local.

Fuel pressure and delivery are usually only a problem if the pump has failed anyhow. There is a test gage that attaches to the Schrader valve on the fuel rail - idle spec is 30-31psi, ~39 psi with the vacuum line to the regulator disconnected.

Spark - Not much to check here
CPS - if the CPS is shot, you won't get any spark at all. The CPS generates timing signals for both fuel injection and ignition control.
Ignition Coil/Module. I haven't seen too many of these fail. Check the power lead and the trigger lead (the power lead should be a steady +12VDC nominal, with something like +12VAC at the trigger with the engine being cranked. A scope is best, but you probably don't have one. If you have an analogue meter, it will respond faster on +12VDC and you'll see the needle wag.)

The sensor in the distributor, under the rotor, is the Camshaft Position Sensor, or "SYNC" sensor. The RENIX system will work without the SYNC sensor - but not as well. The purpose of the SYNC sensor is to let the ECM know when the #1 cylinder is coming up to fire, and therefore allow it to tell which rotation of the crankshaft it's dealing with (the crank goes around twice for each cam rotation.)

If the SYNC sensor has failed, it will be a "long start," but the system will "guess" which cylinder is coming up until it gets working. Therefore, if you had a failed SYNC sensor, you'd still be able to start up.

As far as finding a 1990 FSM, good luck. Most sources only print them going back 10 years - anything beyond that is EBAY or get lucky here. I've got one, and while I'm willing to pass along information, I ain't about to part with it. You might want to check the reference section of your local libarary - they often have Mitchell or Motor manuals, and those are the ones you typically find in general shops.

5-90
 
Ok, I got a nice paycheck, I'ma replace the ICM completely, b4 I do, is there a home test I can do for it? And also, I'ma likely replace the radiotor but might just jbweld the neck on... i want a cooler temp radiator n lower temp theromstat. anyway quick cheaper ways to keep the engine really cool? I really really need this jeep going... and i cannot find any obvious problems... anyone know where all the fusible links run to... like where they end up... i'll be waiting for replies... -MOOSE
 
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