Long Arm Upgrade teraflex vs rock krawler

[ROCKREADYXJ]

I know you do not think that you have designed a better way with those pictures? You are the one who's kit is based around 4 bolts two per side. SPOBI


when you are in NY call me I will let you drive my truck on road and off road.

You can see I do not baby it!!

 

[mack]

somebody send me a free RK kit and i'll be more then happy to try it out..:laugh3:

i did end up getting the TnT, but it was clayton and RK next, so would i like to try it??,....sure.

 

[Mike L]

One thing I will say about the RK kit is that since the brackets are under the frame rail you do not have to drop the arm mounting points when/if you ever drop the tranny. I know you don't need to drop the mounts on the RE or Clayton or FT, but I beleive on all other long arm kits you do.

-Mike

 

[mr4x4]

you know everyone bashes rk that doesnt run it or has ever run it but as you could see the people who do run it love it
just like the people who run re. or claytons, tnt, or what ever it is you and every one out there likes your particular lift
but i dont think you should bash some thing when you only deal with it buy web4x4 or seen the pics and dont like it from the pics. but as you can see everyone that runs rk. stuff likes it and the kit runs very well

now if you want completly bullet proof in your eyes build your lift from scratch

and back to the subject
RK. lift is much better than tera lift

ALL AND ALL I DONT CARE IF YOU DONT LIKE IT OR IF YOU DONT
just dont dont bash something from a pic. find out from other people there personal exp. from the kit its self

 

[Wil Badger]

didn't i say i saw the kit in person as well as know several people who run it.its not something i like .as for mine being held on with 4 bolts .it held in place with 4 bolts yes but the stress is not completely on those 4 bolts.there are two pieces and the crossmember slips inbetween those two pieces the bolts just hold it in place not to the frame.

1 is the slot the crossmember slides into
2 and 3 are the bolts that just hold it from shifting.so the only true force on those is shear .the chances of shearing those is slim because there is no front to back movement only side to side to get it to drop out .

i never started bitching about what i didn't like till i was provoked the person asked for opinions i gave mine .i don't like either kit and stated that.everybody else had to jump done my throat about how great it is.all they had to say is they liked it an why not attack me for not liking it

 

[Capt. Nemo]

If you want good reliable mounts, get something with a frame like a Tj or the Fords you keep mentioning.

I've seen frame mounts fail as well. Reliable would be not to wheel your vehicle at all

 

[offroadman83]

Real framed vehicles suck -----------Unibodys Rule ---------that is all aperwork

 

[codeman8118]

man i got the RK long arm setup and i got the RK bellypan/crossmember/TC tranny skid or whatever and it looks like a complete system...i've had it for a couple months and couldn't be anymore satisfied with the setup...off and on road...thats just my $.02 though...

 

[mr4x4]

man i got the RK long arm setup and i got the RK bellypan/crossmember/TC tranny skid or whatever and it looks like a complete system...i've had it for a couple months and couldn't be anymore satisfied with the setup...off and on road...thats just my $.02 though...

when I got my rk set up they didnt have the belly up skid
but I was thinking on getting it

 

[xjcrawlr]

Badger.... hasta




You've made your point, again, and again, and again, and again......




What I find interesting is the fact that no one has brought up the point of the different handling quirks between the 2 designs.

A radius arm, having a fixed attachment at the axle, and a single pivot point, will have MASSIVE castor changes through its travel. Those of you with radius arms, how much does your steering wheel move when you hit some whoops or dips/rises in the road?

A 4 (or 3) link design will maintain proper castor (if engineered correctly) through 85% of the range of motion. That is why Jeep uses the 4-link, and virtually every hi-speed desert racer uses a similar setup, to minimze bumpsteer and keep control.



And BTW.....I ran the 6" RK on my daily driver for over 2 years.

 

[SourApple]

I dont mean to sound stupid. what are radius arms? are they just regular control arms that are tubular?

 

[matt6669]

Sourapple: I'm horrible at explaining things but i will try my best. A radius arm setup is where there is two lower control arms. But instead of having independent upper control arms, they are attached to the lower control arms. The reason that they cause binding is decause now the uca's are dependent on the lca's for where they move. Since they are fixed to the uca's they can't move were they want to and this causes a binding issue.

Whereas if you have either a 3 or 4 link the upper control arms are independent of the lower control arms. This way when the axle travels up and down, your caster stays at almost the same angle through the entire cycle unlike the radius design.

xjcrawlr: I sort brought that up in this discussion but i have brought it up in other discussion. I think you even backed me up one time in this discussion. It's funny how many people just disregard that statement though. I tell you, I'm just like you, i drive my truck daily and i swear you can't really ask for a smoother ride than what the rk setup gives you. It truely is a sweet ride. If i ever come across someone with the tnt long arm kit, im going to have to have them take me for a spin and see if i can see a difference. I think i will be able to but i won't make that point untill i actually have first hand experience.

Matt

 

[Wil Badger]

What I find interesting is the fact that no one has brought up the point of the different handling quirks between the 2 designs.

A radius arm, having a fixed attachment at the axle, and a single pivot point, will have MASSIVE castor changes through its travel. Those of you with radius arms, how much does your steering wheel move when you hit some whoops or dips/rises in the road?

A 4 (or 3) link design will maintain proper castor (if engineered correctly) through 85% of the range of motion. That is why Jeep uses the 4-link, and virtually every hi-speed desert racer uses a similar setup, to minimze bumpsteer and keep control..

actually if its built correctly you have no bump steer in whoops ,bumps dips, anything.bump steer comes from your trackbar not following the draglink through the same cycle of movement.so you are completely wrong on that.as for caster change yes it does have a good amount of caster change.guess what on the road you will never have enough wheel travel for it to even make a difference so.....

when you do have enough wheel travel for it to matter you are going at slow enough speeds[usually rock crawling] that it won't matter.so whats your point.


as for feeling a difference between the two on the street i doubt you would tell from the arms alone.it would really come down to spring rate,shocks and tires .again the amount of travel just isn't going to be enough to feel any difference.its not always what you feel that hurts you.

 

[ROCKREADYXJ]

actually if its built correctly you have no bump steer in whoops ,bumps dips, anything.bump steer comes from your trackbar not following the draglink through the same cycle of movement.so you are completely wrong on that.as for caster change yes it does have a good amount of caster change.guess what on the road you will never have enough wheel travel for it to even make a difference so.....

when you do have enough wheel travel for it to matter you are going at slow enough speeds[usually rock crawling] that it won't matter.so whats your point.


as for feeling a difference between the two on the street i doubt you would tell from the arms alone.it would really come down to spring rate,shocks and tires .again the amount of travel just isn't going to be enough to feel any difference.its not always what you feel that hurts you.

SPOBI


will I have had both radius and the three link on the same vehicle with the same springs and shocks and you are wrong you can feel the diff going down the road.

And yes the caster angle does affect the death wobble. I have vehicle with too little caster get death wobble and adjust the caster and it be gone.

As far as it changing while you go down the road its about 4 degrees. I check it with the alignment machine. thats with a 1.5 up travel and a 1.5 down travel at the wheel. If you only have 4 degrees of caster that can make you or break you for death wobble on a radius arm kit.

 

[Wil Badger]

i know that caster affects death wobble but i have been running radius arms since i had a 79 Ford Bronco with a 44/66 combo with over 8 inches of lift on 38's and had no problems.i have driven this jeep for 2 years with radius arms and no death wobble.i could easily drive at 90 without an issue hit a bump and keep on going.

you are not going to hit a bump and all of a sudden have death wobble.you track bar has to be out of cycle with the draglink to start the whole thing off.if radius arms were so unstable as to cause death wobble because of a bump it would have never been used in a production vehicle.

as for me putting out bogus information.its a mixed bag isn't it .from my view my info is right on .what have i put out that is bogus in anyway?you keeping reading between the lines and taking out what you want and continue this pointless thread.

so heres one for JTFC shut up.

 

[codeman8118]

when I got my rk set up they didnt have the belly up skid
but I was thinking on getting it

ya man if your for sure thinking about a new crossmember/tc skid...it def beefs it up...and looks like a totally complete system...of course the arms and the RK crossmember/ski aren't connected but it looks to as they work together as a complete kit...looks very nice...i'll have some pics of it on this thread as soon as it stops effing raining in oregon...DANGIT...rain makes good mud for wheelin though

 

[codeman8118]

oh yeah badger...i've run the radius arms in the past and recently switched to RK...and i totally understand where your arguing...i know everyone says this but no long arm kit is PERFECT theres always cons...but i think the radius arm design is great as well as the gen 2 and 3 kits at RK...so RK lovers...i love RK and i love my old TNT design but i wanted to see which one i liked better, and i think the RK kit is a lil more sketch because of the less beefier brackets but they are still AWESOME...they probably won't break and it isn't too risky if you installed them right...but both kits (radius & 3 link) are great in their own ways...overall people JUST DEFEND THE KIT THEY BUY BECAUSE THEY WANT TO FEEL SATISFIED WITH THEIR PURCHASE YA KNOW...when they all have their pros and cons....im out peace

 

[mack]

overall people JUST DEFEND THE KIT THEY BUY BECAUSE THEY WANT TO FEEL SATISFIED WITH THEIR PURCHASE YA KNOW...when they all have their pros and cons....im out peace

i say this thread stops here.....but what do i know..:yap:

 

[javik]

all that being said, whats the best for go fast jeeps? Radius arm? 4link? Does any jeepspeed team use Tnt or RK for their jeep? Or is it just skyjacker or RE all the way? I want something that will hold up to go fast abuse. Nothing like fanning the flame a litle

 

[xjcrawlr]

Untill this season, "long-arms" were not permitted in Jeepspeed. The rules stated the stock mounts must remain intact, and that no sheet metal may be removed. Although metal may be added for reinforcement.

IIRC, those are still the rules for the sportsman class. While the PRO class is allowed to run any suspension system available to the public that is a "bolt on".



Back to topic though....

Its your money, do what you want with it. I dont care what kind of suspension you have, as long as it doesn't break in front of me on the trail.

I ran the RK gen II kit becauce it the closest thing I could find to what I was looking for. Absolutely it has flaws, the arms are so strong they rip the stock lower mounts off the axle and the upper mount at the body will "pinch" the frame rail causing the floor board above it to deform.

On the other hand I think the TNT kit has best ground clearance on the market. Bar none.

There....thats my $.05.