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Any tips/ recommendations or other information would be greatly appreciated.
So far what I've seen it looks like electric line locks are no good for digs. I'd much rather plumb wires into the cab than brake lines so any information/experience that counters that would be helpful.
I found a few threads on pirate mentioning Biondo electric locks, Reviews look good on amazon and summit. Just one negative claiming they leak but considering he's the only one his flares might just suck.
So when I ditch my rear spool and redo the back, I plan on cutting brakes. So the thing with the electric ones is that you have to apply the brakes and then push the button to hold it each time you wanna use it. From my understanding, the fancy lever ones are the way to go.once plumbed and bleed, they can work independently of the pedal. Pulling the lever will manually engage them. That's what I want.
I'm going to install them right off the mc, I don't think I need independent for each wheel and my axles are crowded enough as is. If I did run independent I'd put them at the splits on the chassis so they're more protected.
From my understanding, the fancy lever ones are the way to go.once plumbed and bleed, they can work independently of the pedal. Pulling the lever will manually engage them. That's what I want.
This is what sandrails run, for brake steering. Which is all well and good but it requires you to maintain a hand on it while in use.
The other manual option is a simple ball valve . Apply brakes flip the ball valve and release the brakes. That way you can use your hands wherever else.
Edit: missed the cutting brakes instead of dig brakes.
Electronic or ball wouldn't make sense with cutting brakes because you can't vary pressure for a turn.
I'm going to install them right off the mc, I don't think I need independent for each wheel and my axles are crowded enough as is. If I did run independent I'd put them at the splits on the chassis so they're more protected.
if i am understanding your intention correctly... without a transfer case to operate the front and rear outputs independently it wont work for digs. apply a line lock to the rear or front axle does nothing. they are still connected by the driveshafts. youll either keep the vehicle from moving or drive through it.
i can see line locks for cutting brakes, but not digs.
In the early days of competition rockcrawling a lot of people tried using line locks this way. They quickly found out that it's a serious safety hazard. Once you flip the switch you've lost control of your brakes and a lot of people ended upside down when they couldn't release them quick enough. People also tried running them backwards to shut off brakes to one axle so that you'd just be using the pedal to modulate the other one. That was even more dangerous because when you needed brakes you didn't have half of them operational. A few spectators nearly got run over this way. Don't do it.
Real cutting brakes with handles you can modulate is the only good way to do it, and they have a lot of benefits. If you have dual handles on the rear you virtually don't need a rear locker. We ran ARBs in the rear of all the RedBull cars and the only time the rear axle was locked was for full throttle climbs. The rest of the time we were in "3 wheel drive" using the cutting brakes to pivot and get traction where we wanted it.
These days you don't see line locks on competition crawlers except as parking brakes. It's because they don't work well in practice, and cause more safety issues than performance.
In the early days of competition rockcrawling a lot of people tried using line locks this way. They quickly found out that it's a serious safety hazard. Once you flip the switch you've lost control of your brakes and a lot of people ended upside down when they couldn't release them quick enough. People also tried running them backwards to shut off brakes to one axle so that you'd just be using the pedal to modulate the other one. That was even more dangerous because when you needed brakes you didn't have half of them operational. A few spectators nearly got run over this way. Don't do it.
Real cutting brakes with handles you can modulate is the only good way to do it, and they have a lot of benefits. If you have dual handles on the rear you virtually don't need a rear locker. We ran ARBs in the rear of all the RedBull cars and the only time the rear axle was locked was for full throttle climbs. The rest of the time we were in "3 wheel drive" using the cutting brakes to pivot and get traction where we wanted it.
These days you don't see line locks on competition crawlers except as parking brakes. It's because they don't work well in practice, and cause more safety issues than performance.
I have the biondo line locks in 4643. They were, in fact, a pain in the ass to make not leak - they come in pipe thread that doesn't like to seal, and you have to get flare adapters for them.
I can't say that I haven't used them to dig a time or two, just for fun - but as Dallas said, not the best idea in the world.
In the early days of competition rockcrawling a lot of people tried using line locks this way. They quickly found out that it's a serious safety hazard. Once you flip the switch you've lost control of your brakes and a lot of people ended upside down when they couldn't release them quick enough. People also tried running them backwards to shut off brakes to one axle so that you'd just be using the pedal to modulate the other one. That was even more dangerous because when you needed brakes you didn't have half of them operational. A few spectators nearly got run over this way. Don't do it.
Real cutting brakes with handles you can modulate is the only good way to do it, and they have a lot of benefits. If you have dual handles on the rear you virtually don't need a rear locker. We ran ARBs in the rear of all the RedBull cars and the only time the rear axle was locked was for full throttle climbs. The rest of the time we were in "3 wheel drive" using the cutting brakes to pivot and get traction where we wanted it.
These days you don't see line locks on competition crawlers except as parking brakes. It's because they don't work well in practice, and cause more safety issues than performance.
I have the biondo line locks in 4643. They were, in fact, a pain in the ass to make not leak - they come in pipe thread that doesn't like to seal, and you have to get flare adapters for them.
I can't say that I haven't used them to dig a time or two, just for fun - but as Dallas said, not the best idea in the world.
Absolutely they will. They also come in different bore sizes to match with your calipers. On one of our cars we used double acting cutting brakes and set them up so you could skid steer if you pushed or pulled both of them together. It took more arm strength than the driver had so we just made longer handles. Problem solved.
I have a detroit in the rear.
Should I run one left rear and one right rear? Disengage the rear axle pull that and dig to pivot?
I'm thinking a twin stick would be better than a single push pull style, what do you guys prefer?
I have a detroit in the rear.
Should I run one left rear and one right rear? Disengage the rear axle pull that and dig to pivot?
I'm thinking a twin stick would be better than a single push pull style, what do you guys prefer?
