Xj dies at idle

[mewz99]

I think you can rule fuel out, I just wanted to make sure you weren't pushing 60# from a 97+ pump through huge injectors.

Is your valve cover rear CCV orifice clogged or plugged (should be vacuum from the intake)? Is the front valve cover orifice running to the airbox properly (should be a larger tube connected to the rear of the airbox)?

I ran into some intermittent misfiring/dying at idle issues before I reindexed my distributor...might be worth a shot.

 

[Ryn89xj]

Ok best I can tell the booster test ok. I tried pulling a different smaller vacuum line and its the same bad idle. Its like the bigger the vacuum leak the better

 

[Ryn89xj]

The ccv orfice is new. Yes the front is connected right and a larger tube. Its not connected at the rear though because its an air box off a 99. As far as the distributor goes do you think it would need indexed since it starts so easy?

 

[Ryn89xj]

When I installed the distributor I followed Cruisers tips for indexing, not that I didn't screw it up though.

 

[mewz99]

I screwed it up twice before I got it right. Not really sure, kinda throwing spaghetti at the wall with that one. I really want to say it's not enough air, but since opening the butterfly to 1000RPM didn't help, that pretty much rules out not enough air. If it were me, I'd play with the indexing again.

 

[Ryn89xj]

Ok, I've avoided that in hopes I could find another issue but to no avail. Distributor it is.

 

[mewz99]

You did keep the Renix distributor, right? Didn't swap to the HO?

 

[Ryn89xj]

I kept the Renix.

 

[Anak]

Odd that it likes a big vacuum leak.

I wonder if your O2 sensor is messed up or getting bad information (exhaust leak?) such that it is driving a rich scenario. O2 sensor is what comes to mind first, but I suppose bad info from other sensors could lead to the same result. For instance, if the engine thinks it is cold and never leans out the mixture that could be the same scenario. This is where the ability to look at data real time is useful. I have no idea how to check these things with a Renix, but that is the direction I would go hunting.

 

[Ryn89xj]

Would the exhaust leak have to be before the o2 for it to matter? I currently have no tail pipe. Nothing past the muffler. There is that joint between the exhaust manifold and front pipe thats before the o2. I used that metal donut gasket deal and just put the ugga dug to the bolts so maybe thats an issue.

 

[mewz99]

I have no idea how to check these things with a Renix

The options are a SnapOn MT2500 with Jeep/Eagle cartridge, NickInTime's Renix Engine Monitor, or just hooking a multimeter to the sensor in question. For IAT and coolant sensors, the resistance tables are the same. I posted the table here, connect your multimeter on the resistance setting across the two sides of the sensor.

Would the exhaust leak have to be before the o2 for it to matter?

Yes. If you do end up getting a REM, you'll be able to see whether your O2 is reporting sane numbers, if you're getting into closed loop or stuck in open loop, etc.

 

[Ryn89xj]

I used that table for resistance and the IAT and coolant sensor read accordingly. I have looked into REM and best I can tell you have to run a wide band o2. If I knew if it wasn't going closed loop would there be a fix other than another o2 sensor?

 

[mewz99]

I have looked into REM and best I can tell you have to run a wide band o2

The REM will report your narrowband O2 data from the stock ECU, the wideband stuff is just if you want to piggyback and have some limited tuning capability and more detailed output. It's plug and play with a stock install.

if it wasn't going closed loop would there be a fix other than another o2 sensor?

Not that I know of

 

[Ryn89xj]

Oh ok, I didn't realize it was reading both. Thanks.

 

[mewz99]

You said new exhaust - manifold or just downpipe back?

 

[Ryn89xj]

Manifold and down pipe.

 

[Ryn89xj]

Yeah new Manifold

 

[Ryn89xj]

Dang didn't mean to post twice.

 

[Ryn89xj]

So, redid the distributor. It went in easy and exactly like Cruizer described in his tips. Now it just cranks and had one back fire. Wont start.

 

[Ryn89xj]

For reference, when I installed my distributor, I installed the timing gear to #1 TDC. Dots on cam gear and crank gear aligned and where theoretically touching. I watch Uncle Tonys garage quite a bit and he has a video on getting a new motor to instantly start. He said to turn 180° then retard it 10° or so and install the dizzy. It worked like he said and if fired up damn near immediately. Now I'm back to intake TDC "I think" and it won't start.