Lincoln Locker

[TealV6]

If you can see them, you can weld them. I see side and spider gears, looks easy enough to me. My 20 was a LS that I welded up no problem.

Where??? All I see is spring loaded clutches in the ways. I don't see any of the shafts there... :dunno:

 

[Beezil]

Scott, I'm still thinking you will loose the backlash set-up by pulling the carrier out anyway.

I'm rackin my brain trying to remember if this is the case or not, maybe someone who has recently set-up an 8 1/4 can say for sure......

I don't think it makes sense to convert something that has a bit of resale value into a welded diff, especially if what ky says is doable....

just grab your old stuffed carrier, weld that up and go.

 

[ChiXJeff]

I'm having a new set of gears installed tomorrow, and was flipping through the Auburn LSD install guide on the way to work. I'm pretty sure you lose the backlash as soon as you pul the bearing caps. That's why I didn't even open up the rear diff when the rear end started to howl.

 

[Beezil]

don't be afraid of doing this thing scott, you know you can do it.

 

[TealV6]

don't be afraid of doing this thing scott, you know you can do it.

Yeah... I don't know squat about setting them, but if you are going to do this sometime next week, I'll come over and help.

 

[JnJ]

Where??? All I see is spring loaded clutches in the ways. I don't see any of the shafts there... :dunno:

You don't weld to a shaft, see those gear teeth looking things around the edges? Those are the spider and side gears, you only have to weld those together in the corners where they mesh.

BTW Scott, if that is worth any $$ I'd do like Beez is suggesting. I welded up my 20 LS only to find out later that used ones sell for around $500.

 

[TealV6]

You don't weld to a shaft, see those gear teeth looking things around the edges? Those are the spider and side gears, you only have to weld those together in the corners where they mesh.

BTW Scott, if that is worth any $$ I'd do like Beez is suggesting. I welded up my 20 LS only to find out later that used ones sell for around $500.

Ahhh.. ok, now I understand what that is. I'm just used to Detroits in faster cars that go straight. But I don't think Scott wants to do that.

 

[BUCKYXJ]

How about a pic this is a D44 rear but you can see how the spiders get welded.

and a couple more pics.
http://www.newlifecenterag.org/tolly/buckyxj/welded44.htm

 

[JnJ]

How about a pic this is a D44 rear but you can see how the spiders get welded.

and a couple more pics.
http://www.newlifecenterag.org/tolly/buckyxj/welded44.htm

Hmm that 44 carrier looks a lot like my 20 carrier. BTW, this is weleded!

 

[4ward]

Get a little carried away with the welder?


Scott from looking at that picture I'd say you can do it no problem. Do it in the housing and don't look back. Just spray a can or 2 of brake cleaner in there and fire up the rod burner. You could get a can of anti-spatter then liberaly and frequently spray anything that you don't want slag/ spatter on. It's a no brainer, really.

 

[Scott Mac]

I was thinking you could use some strategically place rocks in there!

hinkley

Do you sell "West Coast Approved" Rocks?

 

[Scott Mac]

Scott. I wanna weld my Auburn turd too, but FYI, Auburn has a buy back plan where you can send back a toasted Auburn and they will sell you a new one for like 80 bucks. I considered doing that and selling it, but I am lazy, as well, and may just fill mine with wire as I also have a DD, but need to drive my XJ to and from the trail. Let me know what you do. My Auburn never worked right.

On a side note. If I pull my Auburn (8.25) and reinsert my open carrier with welded gears, do I need to reset pinion depth, or only backlash. I can handle backlash, but I don't know about pinion depth.

If thats the case and I have to reset the backlash anyways I'll go that route.