MattBlackXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Pottstown, PA
On your home made revolvers, is there any reason I can't use shock shackles? Do either of you have a diagram to show where the stops need to go? Thanks.
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Lawn 'Cher or Peterbuilt
- Thread starter MattBlackXJ
- Start date
Lawn Cher'
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Westampton, NJ
Sure can... I did.
I was previously using a stock shackle with a MJ shackle below it... I have since replaced the MJ shackle with a 1.5" aftermarket shackle. Peterbuilt welded stops onto his shackles so that they jam together under compression and act like a boomerang shackle, but open up like a revolver under droop. The effective shackle angle is quite steep and provides a stiff ride.
I made some UHMW-HDPE (Ultra High Molecular Weight High Density Polyethylene... a plastic) bumpstops to fit inside the shackle box... there are 2 existing holes that I used for mounting them. They should be about 1.5" wide x the height of the spring box x about 2" deep and have the rearward bottom edge chamfered about 1" X 45*. This is where the upper shackle will rest under compression, effectively moving the mounting point for the lower shackle forward... this provides a more relaxed shackle angle and a softer ride in back, in addition to allowing the natural arch of the spring pack to drop the axle lower during drooping articulation. Under droop, the lower shackle goes to a vertical position, and then the upper shackle drops. The limiting factor should be your shock length to prohibit shackle inversion.
If you need a clearer picture of what the bumpstop block should look like, take the outline of the state of Nevada and extrude that. Then put two tapped holes in the long side, and run bolts into them through the existing holes in the forward side of the shackle box on the body.
I was previously using a stock shackle with a MJ shackle below it... I have since replaced the MJ shackle with a 1.5" aftermarket shackle. Peterbuilt welded stops onto his shackles so that they jam together under compression and act like a boomerang shackle, but open up like a revolver under droop. The effective shackle angle is quite steep and provides a stiff ride.
I made some UHMW-HDPE (Ultra High Molecular Weight High Density Polyethylene... a plastic) bumpstops to fit inside the shackle box... there are 2 existing holes that I used for mounting them. They should be about 1.5" wide x the height of the spring box x about 2" deep and have the rearward bottom edge chamfered about 1" X 45*. This is where the upper shackle will rest under compression, effectively moving the mounting point for the lower shackle forward... this provides a more relaxed shackle angle and a softer ride in back, in addition to allowing the natural arch of the spring pack to drop the axle lower during drooping articulation. Under droop, the lower shackle goes to a vertical position, and then the upper shackle drops. The limiting factor should be your shock length to prohibit shackle inversion.
If you need a clearer picture of what the bumpstop block should look like, take the outline of the state of Nevada and extrude that. Then put two tapped holes in the long side, and run bolts into them through the existing holes in the forward side of the shackle box on the body.
PeterBuilt
NAXJA Member #342
- Location
- NJ
Yea what he said. haha I cant really explain it better than that so just go with that..
PeterBuilt
PeterBuilt
MattBlackXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Pottstown, PA
Thanks. I'm not in a hurry so I'll wait till the next time I see your truck Mark. I've got an extra set of shackles sitting here and realized I may have a use for them.
