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Jump from 4:10's to 4:56's

Johnnie Walker said:
Are you going solely by the tach, or have you confirmed the actual rpm with a scope or scan tool? Either way I do not believe that extra 100rpm is much of a bother.
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WOW!! I had to read this entire thread again,....the intrigue,....the suspense. Lots of opinion, lots of advice, and lots of testy people.

Back on topic,....

No, I have not tested to see if the OEM RPM guage is correct knowing fully well that the dash instruments are not calibrated. The MPH though is GPS verified to within 0.XX of what the MPH guage reads, and yes, I changed the speedo gears to match the diff ratio and tire size combination.

Maybe the AW4 have more clutch slip than it should have when it is in overdrive. It have been this way since I bought it in 2003 at 125,000 miles. It is now just shy of 270,000 miles. I do not look at the lower gears since they are only used when starting off or driving on city streets.
 
If you really NEVER plan on going any larger than 33's Then 4.56 would be for you, if regear is your choice.
 
I was able to pick up a D44 rear that already had 4.88 and disk break conversion for a really good price. Had 3.55 so needed to regear anyway.

4.88 was a little deeper than I'd planned on originally but, even with 33s, I'm only turning 2500 RPM at 65 MPH.
=====
 
Well personally I currently having 4.88s installed in my 44/9 and DD on 33s but wheel with 35s. I personally believe it will be perfect for me. Let me put quotes on that "FOR ME" its your truck its your money all anyone else can do is let you know their opinion.
 
cdrake261 said:
would you still recommend 4.56 with 33" and a 4.0L stroker?
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I have a 4.6L, with an AX-15, 33s and 4.56 gears. I would, given unlimited money, rather have 4.88s or even perhaps 5.13s. I much prefer being able to crawl slowly over the rocks. With the manual, I don't like having to drag the clutch. However, my axles effectively limit me to 4.56, so I won't be changing. (yes, I know you can now get 4.88 for an 8 1/4).

I did go to a 4:1 T-case recently, and that made a huge improvement in low speed crawling. This may be much closer to the ideal setup regarding gearing.

The stroker really doesn't make a bug difference in gear selection. You're not generally using the extra power developed by the stroker at the edges of the gear ranges. The advantage to my stroker is that I have a lot of torque at 800 rpm, so I can go slower than I could have with the original motor.

David Bricker / SYR
 
MaxxXJ said:
What did you wheel in 4 high?! I have always wheeled with my 3.55's in 4 low and as long as you know how to drive with both feet you have absolutely no issues, it's a force of habit for me to drive with both feet cuz I drive heavy equipment that requires it, but idk I've never had an issue with 3.55's other than being a dog pulling something or hill climbs on the road
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Again, I wheeled once, on snow covered rocks with my 3.55s and 33s. It was over a year ago but im very sure it was in 4Lo, 4Hi was just to much wheel speed for the one time I wheeled. Interestingly enough I do wheel with both feet cause I only have a LSD in the rear so I use slight brake pressure to keep 1 wheel from breaking free.

ROBZ95Xj said:
learn how to drive? i wheeled well over a year with 33's and 3.55's with zero issues, its not that hard to adapt your driving style
Click to expand...

Pretty sure im a competent wheeler and driver, the 3.55s didn't slow me down nor hinder my ability or my jeeps ability to wheel, just found I had better control over breaking tires loose on icy rocks with 4.56s VS 3.55s, I'm more of a crawler then a throttle junky. If I didn't have the gears/money or the ability to install the gears I too would have wheeled on stock gearing till I blew something up then replace it with taller gears. Sorry for doing 33s and gears all with in 1 month and not adapting to there stock gearing characteristics.
 
David_Bricker said:
I have a 4.6L, with an AX-15, 33s and 4.56 gears. I would, given unlimited money, rather have 4.88s or even perhaps 5.13s. I much prefer being able to crawl slowly over the rocks. With the manual, I don't like having to drag the clutch. However, my axles effectively limit me to 4.56, so I won't be changing. (yes, I know you can now get 4.88 for an 8 1/4).

I did go to a 4:1 T-case recently, and that made a huge improvement in low speed crawling. This may be much closer to the ideal setup regarding gearing.

The stroker really doesn't make a bug difference in gear selection. You're not generally using the extra power developed by the stroker at the edges of the gear ranges. The advantage to my stroker is that I have a lot of torque at 800 rpm, so I can go slower than I could have with the original motor.

David Bricker / SYR
Click to expand...

I keep hearing a lot of about 4:1 t-case...what's the difference between that and stock?
 
cdrake261 said:
I keep hearing a lot of about 4:1 t-case...what's the difference between that and stock?
Click to expand...
deeper gearing in 4low, stock is 2.7:1 theres a couple after mark kits that go to 4:1, or get a tcase out of a Rubicon TJ
 
ROBZ95Xj said:
deeper gearing in 4low, stock is 2.7:1 theres a couple after mark kits that go to 4:1, or get a tcase out of a Rubicon TJ
Click to expand...

Now this is something iminterested in, other then Teraflex, who else makes a 4:1 T case and or kit. 241ORs are worth there weight in gold around here
 
cdrake261 said:
so keep stock 2hi and 4hi, but have deeper 4lo?
Click to expand...

Correct. High range is still 1:1. Low range is 4:1, instead of 2.7:1.

The best (not necessarily cheapest) solution is the 241OR or 241J T-case with the 4:1 ratio. There are some 241J T-cases with 2.7:1 low range in them, so be aware. The 241 is considerably stronger than a 231 or 242. This is helpful, since there can be more torque load due to the lower gears. A 241 is not a direct bolt-in to a XJ, but it is relatively close.

There a quite a few threads regarding 4:1 T-case option. Probably better to check them out as opposed to moving this thread away from its original direction.

David Bricker / SYR
 
bobnoxious said:
You don't get it, and you're still twisting it all around to mean something else entirely.

You're a tough guy with a bad attitude and a chip on your shoulder.

You're such a friggin expert, do it yourself. Take your money and stick it up your ass...I'm not in business to be abused by tough guys.
Click to expand...

And....you just keep proving my point.
 
David_Bricker said:
Correct. High range is still 1:1. Low range is 4:1, instead of 2.7:1.

The best (not necessarily cheapest) solution is the 241OR or 241J T-case with the 4:1 ratio. There are some 241J T-cases with 2.7:1 low range in them, so be aware. The 241 is considerably stronger than a 231 or 242. This is helpful, since there can be more torque load due to the lower gears. A 241 is not a direct bolt-in to a XJ, but it is relatively close.

There a quite a few threads regarding 4:1 T-case option. Probably better to check them out as opposed to moving this thread away from its original direction.

David Bricker / SYR
Click to expand...

one more quick questions....can I regear my 231 if I wanted to?
 
cdrake261 said:
one more quick questions....can I regear my 231 if I wanted to?
Click to expand...

Yes, but it's possible to find a deal on a 241OR for not much more than the regear, and you'll have a significantly stronger case.

David Bricker / SYR
 
Mine wheels fine on 32's with stock gears. :dunno: 4.10's are in progress now though(8.8 swap). I'll be stepping up to 33's and I guess I'll just have to deal with it being slightly under geared unless I get a screaming deal on another set of axles. Mine is a turd right now but if Bobnoxious's calculations are correct I can live with it being under geared by .08.
 
bobnoxious said:
You don't get it, and you're still twisting it all around to mean something else entirely.

You're a tough guy with a bad attitude and a chip on your shoulder.

You're such a friggin expert, do it yourself. Take your money and stick it up your ass...I'm not in business to be abused by tough guys.
Click to expand...



I've never met DrMoab but I talk with him on a regular basis, he's not a tough guy with a bad attitude, you're just getting butthurt like you do in every thread when someone disagrees with you.
 
helpful hint, you can go with a jk 241 4:1 transfer case if you have a explorer 8.8 rear end and a dakota digital sgi-5 speedo calibrator and still be under the cost of a tj 4:1 241 and have a functioning speedometer INCLUDING the cost of the explorer 8.8 in most cases.
 
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