Jump from 4:10's to 4:56's

[5-Speed XJ]

helpful hint, you can go with a jk 241 4:1 transfer case if you have a explorer 8.8 rear end and a dakota digital sgi-5 speedo calibrator and still be under the cost of a tj 4:1 241 and have a functioning speedometer INCLUDING the cost of the explorer 8.8 in most cases.

Going to look more into this atriot:

 

[DrMoab]

I've never met DrMoab but I talk with him on a regular basis, he's not a tough guy with a bad attitude, you're just getting butthurt like you do in every thread when someone disagrees with you.

And the funny thing was I never really disagreed with him. I just didn't like his attitude.

I guess I'll add my .02 here. I think gearing depends a lot on where you live. You Midwest flatlanders can probably get away with a higher gear ratio. Out here in mountainous areas , 4.11:1 (better Ken?) gears would kill you with 33" tires on a daily basis. They would work. Hell, my first jeep and I got along with 3.07:1 (Ken?) gears for a long time. I thought it was fine till I built my next jeep with 33's and 4.56 gears. I honestly just never knew how much better life could be with proper gearing.

Anyway. I'm running 4.56 gears with 285-70-17 tires and most of the time it's great. I'd never want anything higher. Now I pull a trailer everywhere I really wish I had 4.88s but unless I blow up a gear set or change axles, like others have said I don't think it's worth the money. However, if I was running 4.11 gears I'd be swapping in the time it takes to write this.

 

[MaxxXJ]

yeah about them icy rocks

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FCbc3MILw1Q
aperently i had them control issues too:wierd:

That's just funny... You reminded me of something my friend AJ would have done yeah wheel speed wasn't your issue, momentum was!

I did a go pro video and within the first minute I hit the wall . But there was 3 more instances where my buddy spun out in my video but he has 4.56's and I have 3.55's

http://youtu.be/ICToeQMm0oU

40 seconds in , 1:20 in, if you watch close just after 3:35 then just after 6:45

 

[sunburned]

would you still recommend 4.56 with 33" and a 4.0L stroker?

Yes, definitely. A little more power doesn't always make up for tall gearing. Plus it'll put more strain on the drivetrain parts.

If you had a mildly built V8 in there, I'd say you might be ok.

 

[bobnoxious]

I've never met DrMoab but I talk with him on a regular basis, he's not a tough guy with a bad attitude, you're just getting butthurt like you do in every thread when someone disagrees with you.

Maybe he's "nice" to you, so you don't see him as a tough guy...my experience is different.

I have absolutely no problem with people disagreeing with me...I do have a problem with people making comments about me that make me look like I "am crazy" and/or don't know what I'm talking about. You know...when they make the discussion personal, interpreting and twisting things around to say something completely different.

Saying "I like my 4.56's/33's way better than with 4.10" is far different than starting your post with "you are crazy"...one way shares your different opinion, and one way says "this person is wrong and doesn't know what they're talking about". See the difference? Note the difference between these 2 quotes from the first page...one shares a different experience, one starts out telling the forum bobnoxious has no clue what he's talking about, and he must be wrong:

I recently changed from 4.11 to 4.56s. I run two sets of tires, 31"s and 33"s. With 4.11s, the 33"s bogged down on slight upgrades and spent lot of time third. With the 4.56s, is drives nicely. Switching back to 31s, it feels much faster, good for city driving.
Now there is a downside that happens to many, self included when, switching to lower gears. the front drive shaft will be spinning much faster and at freeways speeds, the shaft many vibrate badly. The front shaft's CV joint has more than twice the angle as
the rear shaft's CV joint and will vibrate at a lower speed. In my case. the vibs get bad at 65 MPH, with 33s and at 60 MPH with the 31s
You can read about this in the thread now running entitled,
About ready to give up- Front DS vibes, 01 xj- Advice appreciated .

Main reason why I changed when i did was to add a front locker and to replace noisy rear gears.

That's a lot of money for a .46:1 ratio change.

I run 33's with 4.56, and wish I had 4.10.

You are crazy.

I bought my Jeep with 32's on it, drove it for a few months, then went immediately to 4.56s. The gearing was perfect, felt like stock probably did. Tons of low end torque and plenty of pickup on the highway. I drove a LOT of highway miles with that setup (gf lived over an hour away) and I was routinely over 75mph.

I think the swap will be well worth it in power and gas mileage. Remember, mileage isn't about how fast your engine is spinning but the amount of load on it. Lower numerical gears means higher load because the engine lugs around at a lower rpm. Put it in it's sweet spot when cruising and your entire drivetrain will thank you.

Plus the 4.56/33 combo is going to be really nice offroad. I'm on 35's now and wish I had 4.88s or higher because it's a bit jumpy on the rocks.

You for example...quote me the part where I flipped out because someone disagreed with me without their saying my statements were invalid and crazy?

It would be nice if some of the other haters would quote the posts I made where I said I would refuse to regear someone's rig just because I didn't agree with their gearing choice, or where I said crossing to run deeper gears was a poor choice no matter what? If this is your interpretation of what I've said, let me clarify...we (wife and I) have a DD '01 on 33's/D44/D30 HP/33x10.50/4.56 gearing/automatic, it's over geared by about 10% and we wish it had 4.10 gearing. The only way making this gearing change makes sense financially, is by doing the work yourself. I would be happy to take your money after you know and understand this...but there's a line ahead of you :rtm:

The fact that we've gone 6 pages because I have do defend myself to some interwebz tough guys who insist on lying and twisting things around to fit their own interpretation of events is mind boggling, and disgusting...and before you blame it all on me, go back and read with comprehension. Are morals and values regarding simple amicable interaction with your fellow enthusiast so far askew here???

I never said it was wrong to gear deeper than the math suggests...I never said I would not perform a regear for a customer from 4.10 to 4.56...I never said anybody's opinion and/or experience was invalid (I did refute the notion that 4.56/32's could "feel like stock", but I did it in a very neutral/fact filled way).

Bottom line...grow up, act like adults, be a little respectful (don't get all confused here...it's lack of respect that makes me say "no thank you" to "customers").

 

[DrMoab]

Lol. Wow.

RAR!!!!!!

 

[sunburned]

Obviously sarcasm doesn't translate well over the internet.

Like I said before, you took my comments way too personally. "You are crazy" roughly translates into 'I don't agree with your decision, here are my thoughts based on my personal experience'. You decided to take it as '**** you, you're comments are wrong and you have no effing clue what you are talking about'. Plus, how am I supposed to know you run an offroad company? And based on some stuff I've seen, that doesn't technically make your opinion better than an average guy who's been wheeling for a long time. You're the one who brought your customers into it, not me.

 

[Johnnie Walker]

<br>

 

[bobnoxious]

Obviously sarcasm doesn't translate well over the internet.
.

Maybe some smilies next time then

 

[barillms]

IMO 4.56s aren't necessary for 33s. If you plan to upgrade to 35s then YES, 4.56s are the ticket. I think 4.10s are fine for 33s, not perfect... but they'll be fine.

 

[AJPulley]

Years ago, Bob put 4.56s in my 30 and 44. I have 34 inch narrow TSLs, with a 5-speed in my '87. I'm glad he didn't put 4.10s in. With about 6-7 inches of lift, and a basket on top with a spare tire, there's a lot of drag at 60MPH. I think my engine speeds were just under 1,900 RPMs in 5th gear, and about 2,700 in 4th. I never drove any faster than that in it.

 

[ArmyDad]

When I put the 33s on my rig (AX4 w/ 3.55) the freeway RPMs dropped from ~2250 to 1900 at 65MPH, or about 20% overdrive. Figures as 33s are 20% larger than the 225s that came stock.

Biggest issue was that 4th gear was about useless. The slightest hill or headwind and I found myself in 2nd or 3rd. I was afraid of all the wear as the transmission hunted around for a gear.

Now with 4.88s I can go up to 35s if I wish but it now runs about 2500RPM at 65MPH, or about 20% UNDERDRIVE from stock. That I can live with on the freeway and pick up a little more grunt offroad.
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[kastein]

Probably an AW4 not an AX4 if it was hunting around and had overdrive...

 

[ktm racer 419]

Probably an AW4 not an AX4 if it was hunting around and had overdrive...

chyea, ax4s don't have overdrive, 4th gear is 1:1

 

[ArmyDad]

Yup, AW4. My error.
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[NOTNSUV]

http://richmondgear.com/101032.html

3.55
75mph
27" tire
.75 OD
2485 rpm

4.56
75mph
35" tire
.75 OD
2462 rpm

33" = 2612 w/4.56
31" = a whopping 2780rpm w/4.56

I live in the West and drive 75 for long distances. 65 is really not an option.

I was concerned my new 4.56 diffs might leave me undergeared with 35" tires.
Currently running 31 w/3.55 and am not impressed... no low end torque on the street (yet to be offroad) so didn't want to be undergeared again.
Was figuring I'd have to go 33s max if I retire (my STTs are like new) but according to Richmond 35s might put me right on the number with 4.56.
Going forward I'd most likely go to the 4:1 xfer case (unless the comment above about weakness is widespread) if I need more grunt in Low range.

 

[WAZZUXJ]

I installed 4.56's in my axles and ran 33's for a few weeks before upgrading to 35's.

With the 35's I wish I could go up to 4.88's or someday get a front HPD44 so I can run 5.13's. On the freeway it runs @ 70 mph (GPS) at ~2400 rpm's, but it really feels sluggish around town and especially on hills.

With the 33's the 4.56's felt just right.

I believe it's better to go up one gear set from what a gear calculator estimates, because you have to also consider additional weight you will most likely have on the vehicle such as bumpers, rockers, frame stiffeners, fullsize spare, etc, etc.

 

[NOTNSUV]

..after further ponderation..
I've added winch and bumper, rear tire carrier bumper, xfer case and gas tank skids, sliders, will install a compressor (but where?) for the ARB (2), possible roof rack, tools, gear and even might tow a 1700# boat occassionally.. 33s and 4.56 might be just right with all the additional weight.. I am going to weigh this beast when it's done.

My contribution (not to be confused with hijacking the thread) is that modified weight from stock should be considered.

 

[NOTNSUV]

I installed 4.56's in my axles and ran 33's for a few weeks before upgrading to 35's.

With the 35's I wish I could go up to 4.88's or someday get a front HPD44 so I can run 5.13's. On the freeway it runs @ 70 mph (GPS) at ~2400 rpm's, but it really feels sluggish around town and especially on hills.

With the 33's the 4.56's felt just right.

I believe it's better to go up one gear set from what a gear calculator estimates, because you have to also consider additional weight you will most likely have on the vehicle such as bumpers, rockers, frame stiffeners, fullsize spare, etc, etc.

Looks like we hit the "Submit Reply" simultaneously.

 

[bobnoxious]

Just reposting to refresh our memory as to the original question...it's turned into a "what gearing should I run" thread

Anyone gone from 4:10's to 4:56's with 33's? How much of a change is it? I did 4:10's from the start because I got such a good deal, just really been thinking about going to 4:56's but if its not gonna be that much of a change, then it might not be worth it.