Johnny joints for axle end uca mounts

BIGWOODY

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Greensboro, NC
I have an 88mj RE long arms and clayton x-member. After a hard day of wheeling the bushings in the UCA mounts on the front axle will "walk" out of the mounts, cause some god awaful popping in the front end as it allows the alxe to rotate slightly.I used poly bushings hoping this would help the problem(the original rubber ones were getting destroyed quickly) it works for a day or so, then they slide back out again. My solution would be to use a small RE spherical joint in place of the bushing, anyone tried this or know of a reason it wouldn't work? I rarely drive it on the street , its a trailer queen, so I'm not to concerned about it making the ride more harsh. Thanks...
 
Is the entire cartridge coming loose or just the rubber?If your binding them that much JJ's would be even worse!
 
I used the RE bracket kit on my hp44, welded in the rings and the poly bushings jut loosely press in. Explain how a JJ would make the binding worse? I figured it would allow more side to side "give" than a bushing would, but elaborate, I'm listening...
 
BIGWOODY said:
I used the RE bracket kit on my hp44, welded in the rings and the poly bushings jut loosely press in. Explain how a JJ would make the binding worse? I figured it would allow more side to side "give" than a bushing would, but elaborate, I'm listening...
JJ's or RE Super-flex joints allow for Zero movement in any direction other than twisting/rotational!Most binding is a fore/aft movement due to the twisting action on the axle of the radius arms!When I had stock short arms I did have a problem with the pass side upper working loose(theres not much holding it to begin with) I tacked the bushing is place and havent had any issues with my setup now.
 
Ok, when the upper arms are mounted to the lower long arms, how is the axle binding when the suspension cycles? It looks likes the rear spherical joint on the lower arms at the x-member would be the only movement, the upper arms would just keep the axle from rotating back and fourth. I've seen buggys run a wristed radius arm setup (much the same as a stock RE logarm) with heims on the axle end and the arm end. How is what I'm discribing any different than that? Again , trust me , I'm not arguing with you, would just like a more clear explanation.
I just sorta thought rubber bushings were used on a stock set up to limit the harshness of the ride.
 
As you flex the axle ends describe an arc. The upper arms try to hold the axle in an angle relative to the lower control arm in a long arm setup. But the angle changes and so the upper arms generate a twisting force on the axle housing. Something will give most likely the rubber or poly bushing. If you eliminate play there something else has to give.
 
if you look at this picture on the passenger side, my LCA is flexing, i think its kinda cool and somewhat relevant, as all 4 links have to flex on the sides [therfor your UCA has to flex in this sitation]. I think that he's saying that because when the axle drops, the angles change and teh LCA's push out (towards teh front of the vehicle) and the UCA's pull back and this front to back force would be bad for a johny joint because it is not designed for that load.

http://www.geocities.com/opiebennett/MyRigFlexed.html
or maybe i should just keep quiet...
(this is my stock suspention setup)
 
You're right, the axle will receive a twisting force and if the joints don't give maybe a control arm or an axle mount will break. There is always bind in those 4-link suspensions (5-link if you count the track bar). You have to eliminate 1 link to get a bind free suspension.
 
I don't know if you've seen these or not from Currie.

http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/Product.aspx?id=1277

I've got the stock front end in my XJ but during last years Moab run, I broke both the passenger upper and lower control arm mounts off the axle. I had heims on both. I've since changed to the Currie set up and have had good luck so far. (ditched the rest of the heims too)

I'm not sure if this is what you had in mind or even if it will work with the RE axle bracket kit.

ce9102k.jpg
 
Greg, in order to run this type of joint at the axle end of the upper you have to only run one upper, or run rubber at the upper/lower connection. The problem is that with both uppers and both lowers in the y-configuration that you have, the axle tries to twist along the axis of the tubes when articulated. Without any give in the connection points you will rip brackets off. I'm running one upper with a rubber joint with exactly the same setup(RE arms, Clayton's x-member, etc) and experience "axle wrap" under throttle in high-traction areas, but I have not experienced any substantial bushing fatigue(only been in 3 months, but I figure if it were gonna eat them on a regular basis I'd have noticed by now since I DD it). I did however purchase a small RE joint to replace the rubber to eliminate the wrap. I think the reason you're experiencing bushing walk is due more to the bindage than the throttle induced axle wrap.

Did that make any sense?

Ary
 
I entioned my problem to my sales person when I ordered some RE stuff for stock here, he is sending me some sort of bushing/sleeve set up that uses a set screw to hold them in place in the upper mounts. We'll see how that works, taking it to the Superlift park in Hot Springs in a few weeks, that should be a good test for them..
I also built a small model of the suspension and cycled it through on desk at work (I'm sure my techs thought I had lost my mind and really had nothing to do) but it makes perfect since after cycling it through several times, I understand exactly whats happening. I don't really want to run one upper, I think my driving style may not be the best for that(if I can't make it,I do LOVE the skinny pedal). Thanks for all the help though...
 
motorman said:
Greg, aren't you suppose to be working on someone's Mercedes? LOL

Did you find my control arms yet?
no S&D ones yet...if ya want me to price 1st quality and let ya know whats the best I can do(I won't knock your head off, just can't advertise the $$$ here)...I will.
Buying a 60 so my hp44 will be for sale....5.13's, arb,(2 trail rides on ARB,and gears) highsteer,hydro-assit,warns, CTMs, premium hubs, new ball joints, Ready to bolt in an XJ...something to think about before ya build yours....
 
BIGWOODY said:
no S&D ones yet...if ya want me to price 1st quality and let ya know whats the best I can do(I won't knock your head off, just can't advertise the $$$ here)...I will.
Buying a 60 so my hp44 will be for sale....5.13's, arb,(2 trail rides on ARB,and gears) highsteer,hydro-assit,warns, CTMs, premium hubs, new ball joints, Ready to bolt in an XJ...something to think about before ya build yours....


I dont know about him, but I am the one who needs the front end! I still havent found anything to replace my twisted tube dana 30.

AARON
 
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