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Jeep behind fifth wheel

My dad had a class C and we used to pull a six place snowmobile trailer with it ann of the time. Ended up buckling the frame. The interior doors would no longer close.
If you get one make sure it is rated to pull 10,000 pounds.
Ithe motor and trasns will pull the load, but the Mickey Mouse frame may not.
 
Definitely a C, I've had both A & C and the C handles so much nicer on the road

There is a little class A just down the road from me for sale, looks like it would be in or below your budget.

That's kind of contradictory. Or because it is small will it be different?

Im also not buying until the spring. But maybe it will sit around until then.
 
There is a guy locally who has been flat towing his XJ behind his 5th for years. Give him a pm. His username is oddballxj or something like that.
 
There is a guy locally who has been flat towing his XJ behind his 5th for years. Give him a pm. His username is oddballxj or something like that.

Thank you, but I'm not interested in flat towing. I like the ability to destroy my junk and not have to worry about getting it home, just on a trailer.
 
Class C is a decent option. I know a guy that has towed a two place bumper pull trailer large enough for two rigs to California and back a couple of times. It sucked in the hills but made the trip. I'm not sure what motor he has in it, but I suspect a v10.

If I were looking for a Class C I would look for the smallest one I could find with a rear bedroom and the largest motor I could find, it would probably be Ford E450 bases chassis with a v-10. There are a few 7.3 powerstrokes and 6.0 and 6.4 powerstrokes out there, but they are usually quite a bit more. I would try to buy 2000 or newer.

Having found that, I would crawl under the thing and look at the frame extensions. I would then be shocked as how shady they are and I would cut and weld metal to extend the frame and do my own frame stiffeners from the end of the chassis and make sure the hitch is up to the job as well.

mac 'my thoughts' gyvr
 
Thanks for your thoughts. I think I'm starting to agree. Another option is a bus, but unless I can find one set up already I'm not sure I will. I have trouble finishing jeep projects let alone bus projects.
 
If our level of racing continues to decline ill prolly be looking to do something similar with hopefully a diesel class C and an enclosed trailer in the future. It would be nice to be able to camp in normal campgrounds but currently we have to select them very carefully.

mac 'need my truck tho for Moab' gyvr
 
If I ever buy another motorhome it would be a Super C with a Duramax in it.

Like this.
apyje2u6.jpg
 
I should have capitalized "IF"

A friend just bought one with an 8.1 gasser. Paid $80k

I like GM's workhorse chassis way way better than what ford has to offer.
 
If I ever buy another motorhome it would be a Super C with a Duramax in it.

Like this.
apyje2u6.jpg

Yes those are nice also. I would consider one if I could afford it. The ford chassis is a 650 which means cummins motor, Allison tranny, and ford interior...sign me up!

I had forgot about those.

mac 'now if it had a live front axle' gyvr
 
Re: Re: Jeep behind fifth wheel

Yes those are nice also. I would consider one if I could afford it. The ford chassis is a 650 which means cummins motor, Allison tranny, and ford interior...sign me up!

I had forgot about those.

mac 'now if I could afford to drive it with a live front axle' gyvr


FIFY
 
On most motor homes the frame extensions do not match the original frames on the chassis... Luckily, on my Class A the P-30 c-channel frame was mated to a c-channel extension that matched perfectly. The manufacturer simply put in a "band-aid" piece on each side to join them:

imagew2.aspx


I've been TOLD this is very strong, but I've also read that they fail... I'm planning to reinforce it by boxing the c-channel from the rear axle all the way back to the rear bumper, which should be more than enough. But I've seen motor homes where the frame is box and the extension is C or the reverse. Then owners who want to tow real weight typically build a sub-frame and tie it in to the extension and the chassis.

I've towed my XJ without reinforcing my class A and it has held up. Recently I towed it to California from Salt Lake and back (took I-15 going and I-80 returning, 2 weeks and lots of miles :thumbup:). I always inspect the frame during trips looking for signs of stress (chipped paint, flexed/distorted metal, etc.) and so far it has been fine. I still want to box it though, that's ONE of my winter projects.

I put my jeep on the trailer backwards and adjust it until I have about 400-420# tongue weight. Then I use a weight distribution hitch to cut that in half (roughly). With the weight of the motor home and the distribution hitch, I never know it's back there except when I check the rear view camera:
9604180732_4a4390f93f_c.jpg


Now, I have seen some trucks pulling HUGE boats behind their 5th wheel trailers... :eyes: but the frames HAVE to be reinforced. (From what I understand, some fill their water tanks which sit right above the hitch, giving them more tongue weight - to solve the tongue weight issue...) But the better option is to get a toy hauler that has capacity to haul the jeep inside, like this guy. They're out there... I've seen them up to 8,000# cargo capacity. :worship:
 
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u5y8e4er.jpg


My current solution. I can haul a rig, quad, and a golf cart or rzr in 28 feet of cargo with 20 foot of living.

OP has seen it, bigger than what he's trying to accomplish but much safer than fifth wheel and bumper pull.

mac 'bigger than most camping spots' gyvr
 
Keep in mind, a P30 chassis is nothing more than a bread van frame. The chassis is maxed out with the weight of the motorhome in most situations. My Bounder (p30) had a towing capacity of 3500 from the factory. Every motorhome site I went to freaked out when I told them my plans of towing ~7000#.
 
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